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Thread: Second Set of Eyes | 2006 GTO tune/log review

  1. #21
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    I would assume that would be why the thing is so jumpy when in low throttle, low rpm situations like parking lots or just bumping it in traffic?

    I found this 2006 GTO with a cam and supercharger file while looking for some other stuff the other day. is this a better example vs 100 across the table?

    ETC example.png

  2. #22
    Senior Tuner edcmat-l1's Avatar
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    Nah. Everyone makes that table 100.

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  3. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by MTGOAT View Post
    I would assume that would be why the thing is so jumpy when in low throttle, low rpm situations like parking lots or just bumping it in traffic?

    I found this 2006 GTO with a cam and supercharger file while looking for some other stuff the other day. is this a better example vs 100 across the table?

    ETC example.png
    "bucking" during cruising is typically caused by the type of camshaft, or fueling being inaccurate and the ECU trying to compensate to meet stoich
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  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by STAGEUP View Post
    "bucking" during cruising is typically caused by the type of camshaft, or fueling being inaccurate and the ECU trying to compensate to meet stoich
    Yes this is likely the cause.

    OP I think you should also go back and look at the timing table/ iat compensation stuff. Also I flagged it being pretty damn lean early on. I'd get these things fixed asap.
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  5. #25
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    Making progress

    I have had a lot of help with this. Seems my injectors are pushing 150% duty cycle at WOT causing it to go lean around the 4500rpm. Making some increases on the PE table.

    Not sure that I should run the car this weekend based on this info... The attached log is from the last WOT before making the PE Changes.

    I forgot to mention that I found several things melting under my car to include the fuel pressure gauge wire, my boost gauge hose and my o2 extension wire loom. Makes sense why both gauges stopped working at the same time last week. so yes... my headers have been running very hot :/
    Last edited by MTGOAT; 1 Week Ago at 03:18 PM.

  6. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by MTGOAT View Post
    I have had a lot of help with this. Seems my injectors are pushing 150% duty cycle at WOT causing it to go lean around the 4500rpm. Making some increases on the PE table.

    Not sure that I should run the car this weekend based on this info...

    I forgot to mention that I found several things melting under my car to include the fuel pressure gauge wire, my boost gauge hose and my o2 extension wire loom. Makes sense why both gauges stopped working at the same time last week. so yes... my headers have been running very hot :/
    Only if you wanna put a motor in it.

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  7. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by MTGOAT View Post
    I have had a lot of help with this. Seems my injectors are pushing 150% duty cycle at WOT causing it to go lean around the 4500rpm. Making some increases on the PE table.

    Not sure that I should run the car this weekend based on this info... The attached log is from the last WOT before making the PE Changes.

    I forgot to mention that I found several things melting under my car to include the fuel pressure gauge wire, my boost gauge hose and my o2 extension wire loom. Makes sense why both gauges stopped working at the same time last week. so yes... my headers have been running very hot :/
    If your injector duty cycle is that high, then that means that your fuel pump crapped itself while it was in storage and you're dropping massive fuel pressure at WOT. I'd be careful!
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  8. #28
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    that is another thought. Primary pump is a DeatschWerks dw360. I have a secondary that kicks in at 4psi. Verified the switch and pump work and deliver an additional 40psi to the regulator. I am wondering if I need to look closer at how the boost is being referenced to trigger the secondary. I have the stock check valve in place from the AC vacuum line (I think that is what it went to) that must be creating some restriction and or it is not in the right direction so the secondary is never being triggered.

    Not even sure why I kept this thing in the first place...
    5141lix7tQL.jpg

  9. #29
    Senior Tuner edcmat-l1's Avatar
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    The DW 360 should be enough by itself. You shouldn't even need a secondary pump at your HP level.

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  10. #30
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    correction. it is a DW65C in the tank. if that matters in your original thought. The secondary is a Walbro 55.

  11. #31
    Senior Tuner Lakegoat's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MTGOAT View Post
    that is another thought. Primary pump is a DeatschWerks dw360. I have a secondary that kicks in at 4psi. Verified the switch and pump work and deliver an additional 40psi to the regulator. I am wondering if I need to look closer at how the boost is being referenced to trigger the secondary. I have the stock check valve in place from the AC vacuum line (I think that is what it went to) that must be creating some restriction and or it is not in the right direction so the secondary is never being triggered.

    Not even sure why I kept this thing in the first place...
    5141lix7tQL.jpg
    That check valve is for the ac and heater vents. When you select the front or bottom vents and they work, the valve is ok, and is in the right direction. If it only blows out of the top (defrost) vent, then it is backward, defective or has something plugging it.
    150% duty cannot be solved by adding PE. Either you have low pressure or the injectors are too small. You need a hobbs switch to trigger a second fuel pump unless it is running full time. Injectors can only output 100% and no more. That 150% number is to let you know something is wrong. Boom!
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  12. #32
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    I managed to get this sorted last night. I originally had the hobbs switch in line with that AC check valve. even though it was facing the correct direction in the line it was not allowing enough air through to trigger the hobbs. ran the AC off a T and have the hobbs switch in direct line with the boost gauge line so they are now on the same path right next to each other. Secondary pump kicks in at 4psi now as expected.

    Hoping this is what has been causing me to go lean. Will know in a bit when I get a WOT pull done.

    appreciate everyone's input. been very helpful.

  13. #33
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    Can I take a life insurance policy out on this engine?


    kidding..... sorta
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  14. #34
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    Just because the fuel pumps turn on, doesn't mean they are providing enough fuel pressure at WOT. I hope you know this. Do your engine a favor and buy new pumps. 400 bucks in fuel pumps is a lot cheaper than an engine ya know. You may also want to verify that the pumps feed lines in the tank aren't leaking pressure either. Hopefully crimp clamps were used on the feed line.
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    2007 TBSS-Self tune, bolt ons [email protected], 1,900 D.A
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  15. #35
    Senior Tuner edcmat-l1's Avatar
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    This vehicle should have a permanently installed fuel pressure gauge and wideband where you can see them while driving.

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  16. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by edcmat-l1 View Post
    This vehicle should have a permanently installed fuel pressure gauge and wideband where you can see them while driving.
    Don't you just wonder how some customers rest easy having a 700+ hp combo without a single AFR, FP, or trans temp gauge? lol! I'd go insane without monitors.
    2009.5 PBM G8 GXP M6 W/Roof-Self tune, OBX LTs, Kooks axleback, LSA blower, cam,
    Monster LT1-SC clutch, flex fuel, 12 psi [email protected] 1,800 D.A
    2007 TBSS-Self tune, bolt ons [email protected], 1,900 D.A
    1991 GMC Syclone- Self tune/catback 12.8@104, 4,200ft D.A

  17. #37
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    Yes, I have a WB in the cabin. Yes I have a FP gauge in the cabin along with a boost gauge. The intank pump provides a constant 50psi. The secondary provides 40psi when engaged. What I am learning here is that my injectors were not getting enough fuel so I discovered the hobbs was not triggering due to how I had the vacuum routed with the AC check valve in between the crank case and the hobbs. That has all been addressed.

    I haven't been able to get out and do any logging due to the weather.

    For what it is worth, I do this purely as a hobby. Wife bought the car for me when I got back from Iraq in 2006. I have built the car up over the years in my garage with the help of my brother in law who is a master mechanic and worked in a performance shop some years ago. While I am not an expert I like to think I know enough to be dangerous mechanically anyway. the LS1GTO forum was a huge help over the years. Recently I purchased HP Tuners because I have always felt the car was a little off. Based on what we have went over I feel it was worth the purchase as I am learning what was wrong and seeking help where I can to address it.

    I plan on getting this car to CSP to rework the tune. In the meantime if the added fuel pressure fixes the leaning out issues I will run this tomorrow. And not qualify because I am going to be stuck in the 10.99 and under class due to my tires. but based on the WOT pulls I have been doing the past few days to grab logs I do not see how I can do any more damage if it is no longer going lean.

    Learning a lot from these discussions. Thank you.

  18. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by MTGOAT View Post
    Yes, I have a WB in the cabin. Yes I have a FP gauge in the cabin along with a boost gauge. The intank pump provides a constant 50psi. The secondary provides 40psi when engaged. What I am learning here is that my injectors were not getting enough fuel so I discovered the hobbs was not triggering due to how I had the vacuum routed with the AC check valve in between the crank case and the hobbs. That has all been addressed.

    I haven't been able to get out and do any logging due to the weather.

    For what it is worth, I do this purely as a hobby. Wife bought the car for me when I got back from Iraq in 2006. I have built the car up over the years in my garage with the help of my brother in law who is a master mechanic and worked in a performance shop some years ago. While I am not an expert I like to think I know enough to be dangerous mechanically anyway. the LS1GTO forum was a huge help over the years. Recently I purchased HP Tuners because I have always felt the car was a little off. Based on what we have went over I feel it was worth the purchase as I am learning what was wrong and seeking help where I can to address it.

    I plan on getting this car to CSP to rework the tune. In the meantime if the added fuel pressure fixes the leaning out issues I will run this tomorrow. And not qualify because I am going to be stuck in the 10.99 and under class due to my tires. but based on the WOT pulls I have been doing the past few days to grab logs I do not see how I can do any more damage if it is no longer going lean.

    Learning a lot from these discussions. Thank you.
    How did you not see it losing fuel pressure, if it was?

    What injectors are in this? Did you ever say?

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  19. #39
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    fuel pressure sits between 47 and 50lbs but it never goes above it either. I do not know the exact injectors. They came with the TVS1900 kit from Magunson. I believe they were 58lbs. Kit was purchased in 2012 or so.

  20. #40
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    Where is the pressure being measured? If pressure doesn’t change then you haven’t found your smoking gun for injector duty cycle. Assuming the measurement is at full throttle/load.