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Thread: Tuning for Stall

  1. #1
    Tuner in Training
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    Tuning for Stall

    OK, the car is a 94 Impala SS w/ 24x swap. My converter broke apparently on the dyno or prior to during new engine break in. (long story dealing with this TC and PTC)

    I am now waiting on my new TC from Yank. LTPAS 3400. The guy at Yank said I need to make sure my PWM is off or tuned out so it doesn't work. During the swap I upgraded my trans to be OBDII by adding a PWM and OBDII 3-2 noid. The trans is a Performabuilt Lvl 3 and had a 3000 stall for years that worked flawlessly.

    What tables do I need to modify and to what? My TC is due in this week and would like to have it done correctly before LTx Fest next weekend. It's an hour drive there and don't want to ruin my new TC.

  2. #2
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    I always just raise both the TCC duty cycle minimum and maximum tables to 99% and lock up feels really crisp.

  3. #3
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    OK. But when I was talking to the guy at Yank, he said the PWM needs to be disabled. I'm at a loss on this.

  4. #4
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    Raising those tables basically does disable it but you can also mechanically disable it. Check out this thread: http://www.s10forum.com/forum/f13/el...cation-552450/

  5. #5
    set max to 100 and min to 99

  6. #6
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    Great. Thanks fellas.

    Still waiting on the Yank converter to get here. No word yet. It's been 6 days and lead time was 10-12 before shipped. So I'm being patient and don't want to tear into tranny yet. LTx shootout this weekend and want to at least drive the car there to hang out.

    It's drivable, just no stall and the, supposedly fixed, TC shudders at 55-65 from the lockup clutches being bad. It was sent to PTC 3 times for repair. All that happened was, I paid money 3 times and got nothing fixed.

  7. #7
    Tuner Hotwire's Avatar
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    When you install the new stall remove the fluid restrictor from the nose of the input shaft. This will flow more fluid through the converter resulting in quicker cool down and all full apply pressure to be applied instantly to the TCC. It will feel like 5th gear when it engages.

    If you look into the end of the input shaft after you remove the old converter you'll see a check ball capsule, use a flat head screw driver, engage it into the capsule, start twisting it, and pull the screwdriver at the same time. This motion will cause the capsule to rotate out of the input shaft.

    Keep it around, if you don't like how the lockup feels you can always reinstall it.
    *Jeff*
    2002 4dr 2wd Blazer, 06 L33, LS6 cam, built trans, etc.. SOLD
    2008 Tahoe Hybrid 2wd, 6.0L LFA (stock dd)
    1964 Chevelle Malibu 4 door, 2003 LQ4, 06 GTO T56 swap -> https://www.chevelles.com/threads/19...-build.955866/

  8. #8
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    Thanks Hotwire. I'll look at it.

    Also, I've been looking at other tunes in the repository comparing. I"d seen one that was stated "Pro tuned". Who ever tuned this had Min & Max TCC duty cycles at 0 in all the segments. Then the 3rd gear TCC release was also 0 all the way across. Not sure what this does. I'm guessing strictly for racing. ??


  9. #9
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    If someone wouldn't mind look at my trans tables. I did some small changes to my apply and release tables yesterday while going to and from LTx Shootout yesterday. Granted the old TC is still in car but trying to narrow down some lockups. The trans is a Performabuilt Level 2, so I'm hoping my pressures are stock since the trans is built to shift hard.
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