BTW got the injection timing in and looking good so far. other than the obvious tip in/out issueOriginally Posted by GHuggins
BTW got the injection timing in and looking good so far. other than the obvious tip in/out issue
2010 CTS-V A6, Airaid CAI, 2.4 pulley, ported ls7 throttle body, ID850s, ARH 1-7/8" headers and X pipe, TR7IX plugs, MSD wires, Elite catch can, ZL1 lid and Track Attack HX
so in regards to AEM, HPT extension cable and Aeroforce this is what I have so far. still a work in progress. you see im missing a few wire colors...dummy me I forgot to write them down, but will get a final one and fix this CAD file once it is complete and tested.
EDIT:Well nevermind...it will not work with both the aeroforce and hptuners at the same time. Independently they both work fine.. But together they fight for the can address. I did how ever create a wiring diagram to use if you want to use the obd2cables.com cables and the AEM obd2 pas through port that will allow you to keep your HPT box plugged in all the time and use a switch power source. Also in my case relocate the obd2 female port so you dont have a cable running over leg all the time.
here it is.
Last edited by JBZ; 08-22-2016 at 12:18 PM.
2010 CTS-V A6, Airaid CAI, 2.4 pulley, ported ls7 throttle body, ID850s, ARH 1-7/8" headers and X pipe, TR7IX plugs, MSD wires, Elite catch can, ZL1 lid and Track Attack HX
How much have you had to change it? Increase 30%?
Well you haven't physically changed your blower or throttle body right? Well you didn't go super big on the tb. You are running substantially more boost though if memory is correct? SO 15 to 30 percent for starters? At least that's where I would start Josh. If you suddenly see it going richer after the lean spike, then you went too far.
Last edited by GHuggins; 08-18-2016 at 11:59 AM.
I did change my throttle body from the stock 87 mil to a ported 90 LS7.
2010 CTS-V A6, Airaid CAI, 2.4 pulley, ported ls7 throttle body, ID850s, ARH 1-7/8" headers and X pipe, TR7IX plugs, MSD wires, Elite catch can, ZL1 lid and Track Attack HX
I corrected that above
Not to change subject or pester, but running any better?
2010 Vette Stock Bottom LS3 - LS2 APS Twin Turbo Kit, Trick Flow Heads and Custom Cam - 12psi - 714rwhp and 820rwtq / 100hp Nitrous Shot starting at 3000 rpms - 948rwhp and 1044rwtq still on 93
2011 Vette Cam Only Internal Mod in stock LS3 -- YSI @ 18psi - 811rwhp on 93 / 926rwhp on E60 & 1008rwhp with a 50 shot of nitrous all through a 6L80
~Greg Huggins~
Remote Tuning Available at gh[email protected]
Mobile Tuning Available for North Georgia and WNC
well its hard to tell...i have not had a chance to really get on it. Ive done 2 roll on 3rd pulls and they feel great. But until i can get a good one through 4th its hard to say. Looking forward to throwing a little more timing at it. After i get fueling sorted that will be my next step and i think that will be where it really shines.
2010 CTS-V A6, Airaid CAI, 2.4 pulley, ported ls7 throttle body, ID850s, ARH 1-7/8" headers and X pipe, TR7IX plugs, MSD wires, Elite catch can, ZL1 lid and Track Attack HX
SO my 30-0333 stopped working properly after 2 weeks of use. IT would read four dashes in the gauge and nothing in the scanner then it would randomly switch back and read out for a short time then back to the dashes. IT would read AFR with the power on engine off but as soon as the car started it would stop reading out and go back to dashes. I put my old NGK back in and it works fine. The normal O2's are reading just fine so it is not because i have an air leak and going max lean like their instructions say must be the cause of it not reading out or randomly reading out.
Has anyone seen this happen before?
That's a new one
So, it works ok if the engine is not running. But, it is not working / intermittent when the engine is running ?
Sounds like a thermal issue. Either a sensor with a cracked ceramic. Or, a controller with a thermal failure, due to increased battery voltage, when the engine is running.
The sensor issue seems more likely. How is it set up ?
yes it was working intermittent like you said. I had it powered off a fused switched 12v source in the BCM just like the ngk was before.
Did you ever warm up the sensor just before starting the engine?
This is the only way I know to consistently pop sensors.
well it always goes through its normal heating cycle before it starts to read out. i always let it do its heating cycle but honestly my ngk has been in my car for 2 years and i never let it warm up before starting so i am surprised the AEM broke even if i forgot to let it heat up even once. i know the vast majority of the time i let it warm it since i have been constantly logging my car for the past 2 weeks tuning the VE and Maf and i wait until it starts to read out before starting the car.
I mean that heating up the sensor THEN starting the engine ( rush of cold air ) can cause a cracked sensor element.
The NTK sensors are less prone to cracking from thermal shock than the Bosch sensors. That is their major advantage.
I'm guilty of doing that on mine a time or three. So far still working
so are you saying that we should NOT wait for the sensor to heat up before starting the car up? I never saw anything about that either way with the AEM but my Ballenger instructions said to let the sensor heat up first.
wait a minute...you mean I can go back to remote starting my car
2010 CTS-V A6, Airaid CAI, 2.4 pulley, ported ls7 throttle body, ID850s, ARH 1-7/8" headers and X pipe, TR7IX plugs, MSD wires, Elite catch can, ZL1 lid and Track Attack HX
That's good info.... I had no idea. I've always been under the impression that it is preferred to let the sensor heat up, prior to firing the engine. I believe I read that in the LC1 instructions, years ago, and then again in the NTK instructions.... So I just assuming the same rules apply with the 30-03xx.
I have been letting the 30-0333 warm up, prior to starting the engine at least a hundred cycles so far this summer....
When arguing with an idiot, make sure he isn't doing the same thing....
what about placement? Mine is under 1ft from the stock LS3 manifold flange.. I thought that was kinda close, but so far no 02 problems with either NGK or this AEM. I could see if it's father away it can get hit by both water and cold air starting and if too close then it gets too hot... I lost a sensor ~10yrs ago starting it up when it was very very cold out and condensation hit it, I had it behind the transmission after the Y on a LT1 car.
2010 Camaro LS3 (E38 ECU - Spark only). MS3X running complete RTT fuel control (wideband).
Whipple 2.9L, 3.875" Pulley, kit injectors, supplied MSD Boost-A-Pump, stock pump
LG Motorsports 1 7/8" Headers - No Cats, stock mid pipe with JBA Axle Back
ZL1 Wheels/Tires
Mine is downstream of the collectors in the X pipe merge (ARH LT headers).
The sensor element is made of ceramic. And, it glows red hot, at over 1300F, when warmed up by its internal heater. When you start a cold engine, there is a rush of cold air sent through the exhaust system, until it starts firing. If the sensor is already hot, this is like throwing cold water on hot glass. Ideally, the WB wouldn't start its warm-up cycle until the engine has started firing and the EGT comes up. But, at least, it should not already be hot when the initial rush of cold air hits it.so are you saying that we should NOT wait for the sensor to heat up before starting the car up? I never saw anything about that either way with the AEM but my Ballenger instructions said to let the sensor heat up first.
wait a minute...you mean I can go back to remote starting my car
If that is not in the instructions, it should be. MANY sensors are needlessly killed each year by this practice
Really, there should be a start-up delay to protect the sensor. But, the marketing guys say that the customers want to see an AFR reading as quickly as possible. So, the delay is not there, by default.
The NTK sensor uses a bigger, heavier, piece of ceramic. This makes it more resistant to cracking. But, is also partly responsible for why it is slower to respond.
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