I give up! LC1 is not working right!! Jagged AFR log constantly

[WS6Fury]

I give up, did everything, new ground, new power, my afr is pretty much dead on to commanded. But now my AFR log is very jagged, bounces from 13-16AFR. Sometimes its perfectly smooth, most the time it is jagged and bouncing like crazy completely throwing off my tune.

Just happened again today. Here is a short scan log of the car no running, fully hot, ignition on. This is just plain weird. The LC1 Logworks shows the same exact thing.

Anyone have anything like this happen before??

[PurplePiss]

Shoot a screen shot in LMprogrammer of analog 2 configure and advance screens. Could be your LC-1 is toast. When you turn it on from being cold. Does it blink, then go solid? Does the led ever start blinking while your logging? You are getting power(+12 switched from the fuse box)? When I first opened the log, I thought it looked like the sensor was warming up and cooling off, but it would make the AFR change that much. That's why I want to see your settings.

BTW: My LC-1 is at innovate. I hope they replace it. Seems like a lot of people are having problems and they are quick to try and blame people for not hooking them up right or NOT USING THEM WITH A QUALITY DATALOGGER BOX. Stay tuned.

[WS6Fury]

How do I get a screen shot on a Dell? And where does the file get stored so i can post up? Used to know long time ago. Mac's are easier

The LC1 powers up as it should, blinking light as it warms up, and then it goes solid on. Constant switched 12v from the fuse box inside the car, and grounded to ribbon cable for engine.

Stranger yet, when I got home after driving, and obviously pissed b/c I wasted my time and gas not having this thing work right, the AFR locked on somehow to 15.6afr. Looked at the led after fooling around with everything else, and it was blinking with no end. Turned the car off, back on, and all was well again....

[Wnts2Go10O]

it could be the sensor itself going, how long have you been using it? on another note, i dont think i will ever be buying an lc1 again..way too many headaches that innovate could solve at the factory.

[PurplePiss]

it could be the sensor itself going, how long have you been using it? on another note, i dont think i will ever be buying an lc1 again..way too many headaches that innovate could solve at the factory.

I agree. I have read too many posts about LC-1's crapping out. Mine did the same thing you describe after the car got really hot and then sat. I bought another sensor thinking I cooked it, but that wasn't it. Innovate has mine now, they had better replace it.

Sounds like your LC-1 is dead or dying WS.

[WS6Fury]

it could be the sensor itself going, how long have you been using it? on another note, i dont think i will ever be buying an lc1 again..way too many headaches that innovate could solve at the factory.

Hasn't been long at all, maybe 2.5 mos of useage w/ HPT. Problem is I purchased it on group buy back in Dec in anticipation of HPT and blackbox logging.

Klaus at Innovate hasn't been much of any help either on this particular situation on the forum.

[Wnts2Go10O]

I agree. I have read too many posts about LC-1's crapping out. Mine did the same thing you describe after the car got really hot and then sat. I bought another sensor thinking I cooked it, but that wasn't it. Innovate has mine now, they had better replace it.

Sounds like your LC-1 is dead or dying WS.

the reason why i don tthink its the box is because of the reading on the analog output

[Sp00ner]

Where do you have the controller unit located? It's not getting cooked is it? WopOnTour suggested that I need to use a 470 ohm resistor on both the 1v and 5v output to prevent some sort of damage... been slacking on doing it though...

[WS6Fury]

Where do you have the controller unit located? It's not getting cooked is it? WopOnTour suggested that I need to use a 470 ohm resistor on both the 1v and 5v output to prevent some sort of damage... been slacking on doing it though...

Shouldn't be cooked, its strapped to the fuel line right above the trans tunnel brace.

Don't understand the 470 ohm resistor though, I'd think that would mess up any reading the LC1 read from the WB???

Here's the link to innovative forum I posted this. I have the log files up there for Logworks.
http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/f...5184#post25184

[jdaniels]

I have an LC-1 and I have had nothing but problems with it from day 1. The light pretty much ALWAYS flashes. It loses calibration all the time, and does crazy stuff.

[PurplePiss]

I read all the posts over there. Like I mentioned before I have my LC-1 at Innovate for them to look at. Its been 2 weeks. I'm afraid to call. Someone should post SoundEngineers schematic over on their board. I'm curious if they would bash the HPT or the wiring diagram or own up that their product is not very robust.

[WS6Fury]

Well, finally got a chance to fool around more today since it FINALLY STOPPED RAINING!!!!!!!!!! Feel like I live in a rain forest this past month.

So what did I do, took the WBO2 out of the longtube, did free air calibration. Along with that, I tested the sensor to see if still good like Klaus mentioned from Innovative. So I did the cigarette lighter test. Let the butane hit the sensor while out in free air, and did a log session. Seemed to work okay, it got very rich down to 8.5afr. Cool.

along with this log session, the WB was reading rock solid, no oscilaton in the reading. Put the sensor back in, started the car, everything was fine again. Did a new run with the car, amazingly since the weather cooled off, my VE table is to within -1 to 2. So not gonna fool around anymore.

Midway through RTT, I noticed the VE table getting wacky again, lo and behold, the WBO2 was acting up again!!! So went home, turned the car off, logged with the key in ignition and on (not running), damn oscillation again!!!!!!! Ahhhh!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

So took out my volti-meter and read how many volts were comming out of my power source in the fuse box. I noticed there was a slight change in voltage like +/-0.02v which isn't a whole lot. I check some other fuses, the 15A all fluctuated slightly +/-0.02v. The 25A constant is rock solid. I don't think this would throw the WBO2 readings off that much, so I'm not sure what's up. Obviously something seems to be heating up and falling into oscillation or something. Seems like when the car is cool, the readings are okay.

I attached the lighter test, you can see me move the lighter around and take off and back on again with the AFR getting richer. The other logs you can see the oscillation.

[xonelith]

I had a similar problem and it plagued me for weeks. I did a heater calibration, and all was good. Not sure if that is your problem or not, but it's a simple test.

For me, everything was reading ok, until the car was running for a good 15 min's or so, depending on the amount of WOT runs I did.

[Wnts2Go10O]

well mine started working again and i found out that the nb side of it is making my af guage read it like tht too.

[PurplePiss]

Guys,

I have been having major problems with my LC-1. I ended up running another ground for just the white, green, and black, to the block and I moved the Blue heater wire to a bolt in the engine compartment(chassis). Recalibrated by unplugging the O2, turn ignition on for 30 secs. Turn off, plug in O2, turn back on and it took 2 minutes to do the heater calibration. I believe you need to do the heater calibration with the O2 sensor in the pipe. My reasoning is I have a huge copper heat shield. This will affect how the heater works, i.e. suck more power to maintain temp. I also think you should do your "free air calibration" with it in the pipe which means you need to let it sit overnight or blow compressed air in the tailpipe to clean it out. I checked it in Logworks and it read 20.8-20.9. In HPT it should read 17.99-18.00 since that is your upper end. I set the LC-1 to 2.5 volts, and verified in HPT that it was reading 14.000. My offset went from 10.06-10.08 by moving the grounds. I expected it to move more. Moral of the story is, I was having a lot of trouble with the LC-1 if the MPVI was not plugged into the DTC. Now it has a dedicated ground and it seems to be working fine. Just my thoughts.

[joemayo]

That log looks pretty much just like mine.

I get great results when logging data with logworks, but when connected to the EIO it is junk. I have changed the sampling rate to no effect. I have a single ground wire for the heater ground from the LC-1 and all the other "common/ground" wires are kept between the LC-1 and the EIO connector. At WOT the range of data reported definately shifts with the change in AFR, but it is still just as jagged. The logworks data is beautiful by comparison.

I have read from searches that the scattered data could be from ground loop noise, but I think I addressed that with the current wiring setup. I don't even care about the accuracy of the data right now either. If I had a reliable difference of 0.30 AFR and a nice curve, I could do something about that. The only thing I think I can do is to try and move the heater ground somewhere else tomorrow.

I give up, did everything, new ground, new power, my afr is pretty much dead on to commanded. But now my AFR log is very jagged, bounces from 13-16AFR. Sometimes its perfectly smooth, most the time it is jagged and bouncing like crazy completely throwing off my tune.

Just happened again today. Here is a short scan log of the car no running, fully hot, ignition on. This is just plain weird. The LC1 Logworks shows the same exact thing.

Anyone have anything like this happen before??

[PurplePiss]

After further review, I decided something is wrong with this RMA'd LC-1. I am upgrading to the LM-1.

[MMGT1]

Anyone had any probs with the AEM set up?? Should have mine in a day or two.....

[WorkingManPerf.]

yeah same question as above/\/\/\/\/\

really looking for a plug and play solution.

[PurplePiss]

There is a poll on LS1tech.com about LC-1's. 35% failure rate! Even if 10% is user error, 25% manf/eng design problems? Why is everyone still ravving about this product? What confuses me is that I think the LM-1 has the same guts as the LC-1, yet I haven't read a single complaint or failure realting to it. I get my LM-1 on Friday. Can't wait.

I have heard that a lot of import guys use the AEM.