LC1 help. I can't get the LC1 to conect to my computer

[brandonppr]

I am trying to conect the LC1 to my computer to change the update rate/setting on the LC1 to use with HPtuners. Does the LC1 have to have power going to it to connect to my computer? I didn't have a serial port on my computer. I bought one at radio shack and tried it. when I try to start the LC1 program it says something like: Turn the power on the device to connect.

I tried conecting it to power and ground on the car and still nothing. Does it have to be hooked up to connect to my computer anyway?

[Billf6531]

Yes, the LC1 requires power in order to use the Innovative s/w to change its parameters. Also, ensure that the serial port cable is plugged into the correct receptacle on the LC1, and that the s/w is selecting the correct COM port to use. Those are the common problems I've run into.

[scauffiel]

For me, the serial port is finicky. These are the steps I have to take:

Starting from laptop off, car off:
1) Plug serial cable into the 'Out' port on the LC-1
2) Turn laptop on, wait until you're logged into Windows
3) Plug serial cable into laptop
4) Turn key to 'Run' position
5) Start LogWorks and connect to COM1 or start LM Programmer
6) When finished with logging or programming, save your log then close out of LogWorks OR click 'Program' to program the LC-1, then close LM Programmer
7) Turn car off

Here's the rub though. From this point, if I want to get back into LogWorks, I have to unplug the serial cable from the back of the laptop - then shutdown - after a minute of being shutdown, start the machine back up. Then you're back to step 2. For some reason, where LogWorks is concerned, the serial port won't be released without a fullblown shutdown and cold restart.

Now, I CAN run LM Programmer multiple times without the shutdown/restart routine, but after having the issues with LogWorks, I'm doing the same thing with the Programmer. Do I HAVE to? No, it doesn't appear that I have to, but I feel better doing it.

Your serial to USB adapter is a whole 'nother ballgame, but hopefully this helps your or someone else out a bit.

Steve

[brandonppr]

Which one is out the silver or gold conector?

[scauffiel]

Uh, I'm not sure - it's the one that says "Out" on the black plastic. You should have the terminator plug in the other one, the one that says "In."

S.
(Hopefully you're talking about the serial cable hooking into the LC-1 )

[brandonppr]

Uh, I'm not sure - it's the one that says "Out" on the black plastic. You should have the terminator plug in the other one, the one that says "In."

S.
(Hopefully you're talking about the serial cable hooking into the LC-1 )

Oh duh

Ok I followed those steps step by step and still get the same message.

I am so frustrated with this thing.

I even pulled out my old computer that already had a serial port and got the same message.


I got the LC1 to register with HPtuners and log but I can't change the settings on the LC1 so I can actually use it on HPTuners.

[brandonppr]

Thanks for the help.
I think I fiqured out what I was doing wrong.
I didn't plug in that little plug in the end of the IN


Now I got it programed. Now the LED is in a slow steady blink when I turn it on. It blinked for about 5 mins so I turned it off. Is that normal?

[brandonppr]

Ok I got it working normal now.

http://www.hptuners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11018

when setting the LC1 up. Do I still have to go thru all those steps? The PID in HPTuners was already set up for a LC1, I just had to select it.

Can I just set it like this to start with and then set the update rate to 1/6th and be done:

[scauffiel]

You pretty much have to do the AFR setup steps as it shows in that thread in order to make sure HPT is seeing the same thing the LC-1 is putting out. Actually, it's fairly essential that they're seeing the same thing so you can trust the reading.

[brandonppr]

Ok I think I get it now.

so when you program the LC1 to strait 2.95 v then 2.95 v = 14.7 on the range right?
So when you set it at 2.95v HPtuners should see 14.7 and if not HPtuners needs to be adjusted to see 14.7

[scauffiel]

Ok I think I get it now.

so when you program the LC1 to strait 2.95 v then 2.95 v = 14.7 on the range right?
So when you set it at 2.95v HPtuners should see 14.7 and if not HPtuners needs to be adjusted to see 14.7

Exactly.

[brandonppr]

Thanks.

I have another question

After I fix the offsets, When I set up the PID do I use the default WB LC1 PID or do I use the one that I made the user defined one?

Like EIO imput1 = Wide Band 02 - LC1
or EIO Imput1 =10-18 AFR


One more thing. When the car is not running it reads about 17.5 afr is that normal?

[scauffiel]

You have to create your own using the offsets you came up with. I've read of some guys using the built in PID, but to be sure, I'd create your own using the numbers you came up with during your setup. So, as long as your "10-18 AFR" is using the numbers that you came up with, that's what you'll have EIO Input 1 set to.

17.5 is probably okay. Exhaust fumes stick around in those pipes for a long damn time so you probably won't get a "free air" reading (around 20.5 or so) unless the car has been sitting for a long long time. 17.5 isn't too far outside the norm for the sensor sitting in an exhaust pipe. As long as it comes in line pretty quickly you should be good. At least, that's my story and I'm stickin' to it.

[brandonppr]

Thanks for the help. I think I have it installed correctly now.

I have another question if you don't mind.

If I decide to hook the wideband to the stock O2 plug as a narrowband, do I have to change the settings on output from the yellow wire? I am talking about the offsets. Do I have to do the same thing or is it already set up how it needs to be?

[scauffiel]

No problem so far.

Until now.

I have no idea about setting it to act as a narrowband. After reading and re-reading about it, I decided to just add a bung and use the LC-1 as a wideband and wideband only. I forget why exactly, but if I recall correctly it was mostly because it seemed there were more people with problems trying to run it as a narrowband than there with people that didn't - if that makes a lick of sense. I'm not saying that's actually the case, but for ME I wanted and needed the wideband set up to be bulletproof to tune my TT first and foremost. I didn't want the added FUD (Fear - Uncertainty - Doubt) and aggravation from trying to get it to act like a narrowband for my VCM too. Maybe once I've gotten things straight and I'm a fairly proficient tuner I'll take a look - but I doubt it.

S.

[pjk91]

So how did you send a wideband signal to your gauge while logging wideband in HP tuners? That's the part that blows my mind, since the LC-1 only has one analog out that outputs 0-5v while the other analog output goes 0-1v.

[scauffiel]

Well, I don't have a gauge so it wasn't a concern for me really. Wish I could help.

S.

[pjk91]

Well, I was thinking about this some more and I know that logworks logs wideband, but what's the point of having two programs running at one time when one program can do it all?

The 2.5mm stereo plug that goes into the output part of the LC-1 and then to a serial port on the computer can probably be manipulated since that is outputting a wideband signal. What if I got a 2.5mm stereo plug from Radioshack with a pigtail coming out of there and managed to find a way to connect that to the EIO? Theoretically, it should work...has anyone tried this?

[almostfast]

well this blows. neither my laptop nor my dad's have a serial port on 'em.

I guess I'm gonna have to drag the old POS computer out of the basement, along with a monitor and all that crap out into the garage just to set up my wideband. the PC i'm on now has one, but the computer is custom built and weighs a ton, It don't leave my room.

right when I am gonna start getting brave and installing my wideband that I've had for 3 months, I run into stupid stuff like this.