yes, it is where all other knock sensor settings are
engine>spark control>knock sensors>knock sensor level
yes, it is where all other knock sensor settings are
engine>spark control>knock sensors>knock sensor level
Sulski Performance Tuning
2000 WS6 M6 - LS6 (long block, refreshed top end), 10.8:1 CR, 90 mm ported FAST, Exo-Skel, 227/232 cam, QTP HVMC, EWP, GMMG, 9" w/4.11s
2018 Sierra SLT 5.3L A8 - Airaid intake tube, GM Borla catback, L86 Intake/Ported TB
Ok then I half the "INITIAL LEVEL" and the "MIN LEVEL"?Originally Posted by WS6FirebirdTA00
And as for the "Decay" he aspeaks of that is in the SPARK CONTROL-->SPARK RETARD--> DECAY RATE
Sorry to be so clueless but a lot of what is talked about is not said exactly as it is on my program (gen 3 car vs. gen 4 truck), And I dont want to blow up my new ride.
99Z A4 w/ SS LT's, h/f cats, magnaflow catback, port/polish t/b, egr deleted, ls6 intake, lid, 3.73's, hpt, performabuilt level 1 tranny, 3600 stall, Stage 2.5 (5.3 heads), Torquer 2 cam, 42# reworked injectors, TR6 plugs.
2007 Avalanche LTZ - Catback and Eibach springs
You are in the gen 4 section, this started about the 2008 Corvette
...but yes, those tables.
Sulski Performance Tuning
2000 WS6 M6 - LS6 (long block, refreshed top end), 10.8:1 CR, 90 mm ported FAST, Exo-Skel, 227/232 cam, QTP HVMC, EWP, GMMG, 9" w/4.11s
2018 Sierra SLT 5.3L A8 - Airaid intake tube, GM Borla catback, L86 Intake/Ported TB
I'm adjusting the tables for my 09' G8 GXP so there would actually be three tables to adjust?
Engine-->Spark Control-->Spark Retard-->Knock Retard Decay x 2
Engine-->Spark Control-->Knock Sensors-->Knock Sensor Initial Level x .5
Engine-->Spark Control-->Knock Sensors-->Knock Sensor Minimum Level x .5
Car has been pulling timing but there is no actual knock even when running a conservative A/F ratio with 24 degrees timing. Are these the correct 3 tables?
Thanks!
Turbo good luck with getting those adjusted, I have a 09 G8 GXP as well and the freaking thing is soo soft off of the line because the computer is pulling timing for no reason.
I have done the double and half adjustmets and then some in the knock tables. I am finally getting to the point of where it feels alot stronger off of the line than it did before.
The main setting Russ is talking about are under:
Engine>Spark Retard>Knock Retard Decay> x2
Engine>Spark Retard>Knock Retard Attack> x.5
You will really need to mak some adjustments to the Burst Knock tables as those are the ones that are more than likely pulling the timing. I have made several changes to those and it seems like they are the ones making the most difference right now.
Last edited by Sneakyws6; 06-21-2009 at 12:11 PM.
If you lower the levels, the knock will pick up EASIER, so it will be worse.
Sulski Performance Tuning
2000 WS6 M6 - LS6 (long block, refreshed top end), 10.8:1 CR, 90 mm ported FAST, Exo-Skel, 227/232 cam, QTP HVMC, EWP, GMMG, 9" w/4.11s
2018 Sierra SLT 5.3L A8 - Airaid intake tube, GM Borla catback, L86 Intake/Ported TB
subscribing
Bill Winters
Former owner/builder/tuner of the FarmVette
Out of the LSx tuning game
OK I adjusted these two:
Engine>Spark Control>Spark Retard>Knock Retard Decay> x2
Engine>Spark Control>Spark Retard>Knock Retard Attack> x.5
plus I adjusted these two:
Engine>Spark Control>Knock Sensors>Initial Level> x.5
Engine>Spark Control>Knock Sensors>Min Level> x.5
These seem to have removed all of the retard except for what appears to be some burst retard on agressive throttle tip-ins. What tables in burst retard have you adjusted to correct this issue and how much did you adjust them?
Car is an 09' GXP so there is no DOD. I am running 24 degrees timing at WOT and commanded A/F ratio is 12.8:1
So go get on a dyno and see if what you did was the "right" thing. I would never trust modifying knock sensor values without a load bearing dyno. Gotta protect your car's ass, bud.
Formerly known as RWTD
Toys: '22 Tesla Model S Plaid / '20 Chevy Duramax / ?20 Sea-Doo RXT-X (2)
Last edited by boomer; 07-25-2009 at 10:14 AM.
While I would generally agree with this in whole (and it is easy to see), If you have a boltons car and the fueling is right, and you lower the WHOLE MAP 6-7deg and get the same sporadic KR in stupid places like when lifting from the throttle and in cruise as you saw initially then I'd say it's safe to call it false. Wouldn't you?
OK so now I have adjusted only these two:
Engine>Spark Control>Spark Retard>Knock Retard Decay> x2
Engine>Spark Control>Spark Retard>Knock Retard Attack> x.5
Do you guys increase sensitivity for tuning on the dyno and then go back to stock once you have the A/F dialed in? I am running 24 degrees timing at 12.6:1 A/F with no knock with these parameters. MAF tables are dialed in and ltrims average between -.4 to -1.2 in all cells with lots of logging under a load.
Thoughts?
I have a knock problem like your on a LS3, I will do more testing soon to see what's the problem, if it's the knock sensivity or the ignition
Quote:
Originally Posted by turboLS2 View Post
plus I adjusted these two:
Engine>Spark Control>Knock Sensors>Initial Level> x.5
Engine>Spark Control>Knock Sensors>Min Level> x.5
Quote:
Originally Posted by WS6FirebirdTA00 View Post
If you lower the levels, the knock will pick up EASIER, so it will be worse.
I think you have this backwards
Like WS6 said, if you multiplying those tables by .5 it makes them lower, more sensitive.
So did anyone work out if we multiply by .5 to decrease the values or 1.5 to increase the values to decrease sensitivity?
Sulski Performance Tuning
2000 WS6 M6 - LS6 (long block, refreshed top end), 10.8:1 CR, 90 mm ported FAST, Exo-Skel, 227/232 cam, QTP HVMC, EWP, GMMG, 9" w/4.11s
2018 Sierra SLT 5.3L A8 - Airaid intake tube, GM Borla catback, L86 Intake/Ported TB
I took this threads advice yesterday, and it went very smooth!
I took the attack down to half and the decay up double and it was perfect!
I also lowered the maximum retard because the customer only uses good 93, and ethanol content is present, but not huge in the area he's in.
Also took the initial level and added like .1 or so and it didn't do a whole lot. I think if you took that and maybe added 5% to the whole row you'd be in good shape.
Also, the knock sensor maximum retard I pulled down a little bit.
You are playing with fire depending how much you lower max knock. If you set it up right, you want to leave those tables to pull out a lot of timing in the event that you do get a lot of knock. Just because the customer uses "good fuel" doesn't mean it is always going to be good or that something else couldn't fail. That is one parameter I like to leave at the high, stock levels.
Sulski Performance Tuning
2000 WS6 M6 - LS6 (long block, refreshed top end), 10.8:1 CR, 90 mm ported FAST, Exo-Skel, 227/232 cam, QTP HVMC, EWP, GMMG, 9" w/4.11s
2018 Sierra SLT 5.3L A8 - Airaid intake tube, GM Borla catback, L86 Intake/Ported TB
Do you suggest reloading the max retard to stock and raising the sensitivity up about 5-10% or so? I want it to be able to hold 24-25 degrees of timing (11.5:1 Compression w/12.5 afr's) to redline without retard from the insanely loud exhaust/cam combo. It's pulling at 21 degrees right now. This is on good 93. I also zero'd out the burst knock.
Last edited by tillman speed; 08-20-2009 at 10:46 AM.
I like to leave the safety there. Once you setup the KS tables correctly, you want it to pull timing when it sees real knock. I am only talking about the max retard values you spoke of.
Sulski Performance Tuning
2000 WS6 M6 - LS6 (long block, refreshed top end), 10.8:1 CR, 90 mm ported FAST, Exo-Skel, 227/232 cam, QTP HVMC, EWP, GMMG, 9" w/4.11s
2018 Sierra SLT 5.3L A8 - Airaid intake tube, GM Borla catback, L86 Intake/Ported TB