So if you are reading this, hopefully you understand how to set up your histograms, and hopefully you know how to do some more of the basics.
So first thing is always first. Make sure you take your MAF Correction table, and set it to all 1's. Next, make sure you set up your PE table (See picture I provided, Top Right). Next make sure your HOM Single Low Table is correct, usually you only need to adjust this if it is absolutely needed, but I would smooth it over some, this is an example of how Bill has done his (See picture, middle right). Next, make sure fuel pressure is correct, such as raising idle pressure as I discussed in the idle thread, and making other changes to the rest of the table to make it smooth (See picture, middle left).
All tables should always be smoothed over. I apologize because the PE table I provided is definitely not as smooth as I would like it. For ultimate smoothness, which results in ultimate transition from one cell to the next, I highly recommend changing the row and column axis numbers. Be careful changing those values in tables though. Some tables you can't adjust at all because otherwise the table will not utilize the values, and other tables you can adjust, but you can only shift it so far before it doesn't allow that section of the table to be used. It's a hard lesson to learn, so be careful in trying that, but honestly it is the best option for ultimate tuning in my opinion. There is other ways to do it without doing that method, but that would take a lot more calculating and time smoothing out, but it would still be worth it in my opinion. Moving on.
So some very IMPORTANT steps for tuning fuel, in my opinion is having proper Spark and OP Spark Tables. I fully understand that if you are still learning how to tune those tables, it is impossible to have proper tables.
After you have all of your tables set up, you need to start with stock MAF Calibration table, unless your setup does not allow for that. Next shift your injector constant for your fuel (if you are changing fuel, otherwise keep it stock).
Log the car.
After you log it, you need to see what the LTFT + STFT trims look like in MAF Correction Base format (See picture, bottom left). Please forgive me with the picture because I have not finished setting up my scanner, and the details in the picture are inaccurate, but the values will play a good enough learning curve that I can still use it to explain this. When you open it up, take a look at the values. In my picture you will see in the 20-85% load range, and the 2000-3000 rpm range, you are up some positive numbers. Don't mind the high numbers in the high load column, because if my histogram was set up correctly, this would not be how it is shown.
With those positive numbers in the range I discussed, I would adjust my Injector Constant 3%. Maybe even 4%. Then I would log again. I try to find a spot where the numbers are either all close to zero, or on one side of the rpm range it is negative or positive, and on the other side of the rpm range I listed, it is the opposite. The reason behind this is because you can only get it so close to zero with injector constant before you start shifting the other side too much. You should be able to find a happy medium.
After you find that happy spot, that is when you adjust the MAF Calibration Table, and you compare it to the MAF Calibration table in the histogram for MAF Calibration. I would not make adjustments to all cells unless all cells need adjusting. After you make adjustments, make sure you look at each cell, and make sure that all cells go in ascending or descending order (whichever way you look at it). Reason I bring this up is because certain setups and certain adjustments to fuel can cause an issue with this. It doesn't happen often, but I would still check just so you can avoid issues later.
After you dial in MAF Calibration the way that CSSOB demonstrates in his videos, while utilizing my way, then you want to move onto the MAF Correction Base Table. Assuming you need to make adjustments to this table. Depending on your car setup, will depend on if you need to make any adjustments to this table or not. I have seen some cars dial into zero with next to no adjustments, while I have seen other vehicles act finicky as all can be.
This is my preferred method for tuning. I always make Injector Constant changes first and base it off of roughly around that range I described.
Hopefully I described this process well enough. If I didn't, just ask some questions, or point out what you think I messed up on, and I will update it with a better way to explain it.
Fueling.jpg