Gen 3, Deka 80 inj. 73 mm turbo

[Jason.Henley]

I rarely if ever ask for help but,,,

I could used some guidance.. I have been working on this truck for years.. I paid a "performance shop" to just make it match what the Dodge Viper Truck would perform... The guy didn't have a clue but never informed me of such... Finally got the truck back, need to change the diff fluid "break in" two bolts hand tight holding the transmission crossmember, no nut holding the transmission the gears he installed in the rear diff Destroyed all driveshafts. fuel lines to small,,,,,ect..... Broke down and brought it to a different Performance shop to get the tune right, I purchased $3k+ from the tuning school but just couldn't figure it out.. the new performance shop. blew a radiator hose, then the blew the radiator, and replaced the hood latch handle in the cab... $3k..... they call and they cant get it to Idle.... I told them ... I drove it to your shop what do you mean.
after it sitting in my drive for 4 more years i have started tinkering with it .... I finally found where they enabled the MAF ... I don't have a MAF.. the turbo splits them in half..

I am attaching the latest tune,,, Having issues around 3K rpms.. I have done 11 gallons worth of pulls.

41924AG hm.hpt41924AG hm.hpl

[gametech]

You posted this in your other thread 2 weeks ago. People made some observations and asked follow up questions in an attempt to help, and you never responded. Starting a new same thread will not magically make your truck run.

[ns158sl]

The VE is still horrific. That is usually the first thing to dial in, especially , if you don't have a MAF. It is not Alpha-N lol. You are getting knock, im sure its false, id start with burst knock tables to rule that out, then diagnose the rest, while you are tightening your VE table. What happened to your spark table?

You need to start from a stock cal, atleast fueling and spark related.

How have you went through 11 gallons to get your VE to that?

[Jason.Henley]

I reposted in a new thread as instructed.

Yes, it?s been a long road. When I received the truck back from the original performance shop who did the v6 to v8 swap and installed the turbo and 6 speed manual trans. (T56), The gears installed were too 4.88 damaging the stock drive shaft, also it was not getting enough fuel. He used the stock fuel pump housing and fuel lines which didn?t support the new Walbro pump. And he didn?t have it set up correctly with the return line back to the tank. It took a while to find that, and install a different fuel rail with return capability. All the vacuum lines he just had zip ties. I replaced all with hose clamps. He hose clamped to the originals fuel lines.. Just a poor job. Which led me to purchase the all the software and books I assumed if he did all that wrong he probably didn?t know how to tune as well. He never entered new injector data he was just trying to use the ve table. I when through 3 MAF sensors, but they just spit in half. Also he did not gap the rings.

I later brought it to a different performance shop. Once I got it back from them it still wasn?t working. I found during my most recent attempt to get it all straight. After a few days I realized the new shop had set it to use the MAF which isn?t there.
My original laptop that I was using for this crashed, so I no longer have the stock tune.
I purchased the plex knock detector kit, but can?t fin place to mount it. I have tried various Deka 80 injector data. I purchased snow performance methanol injection with no success removing knock. I had just about removed the knock sensor spark retard. I took advantage of my year of tech support years ago with no success. I have too much money and time tied up in this truck. So I am at the end of my rope. I tried ethanol, which led to all new stainless fuel lines.
I recently received new injector data. But have not started over. I realize this is a lot of information.I?m just trying to give as much info as possible.
Do I need to adjust cylinder volume due to forced air?
Is the parts installed just not capable of working together?

[Jason.Henley]

I didn?t see the follow up questions? I will look again.

[ns158sl]

Not being a dick, but maybe try a decent remote tuner instead of trying to delve into this on your own. What you can do is make sure everything is mechanically sound that could be giving you false knock. Exhaust hitting anything, especially under load, etc.

You need to dial in that VE table.

[Jason.Henley]

What is Alpha-n. Explain what you mean by the spark table. I made changes based on the book and adjusted based on the spark advance / retard from the what information gathered on the scans.

[Jason.Henley]

I tried the two shops that I know of. I don?t think there are any decent tuners in my area. Neither I am will to use again. I talked to one other who stated that if they destroyed the motor in the process they are not responsible. Which I am not comfortable with and seems to be counterproductive.

[ns158sl]

As in your VE is controlling all the fueling. Your VE is not correct/smooth(ish). Your spark around idle is rediculous also. I am surprised that thing runs/drives as well as it does. There are tuners around. They are just hard to find sometimes. Thats what I meant by trying a remote tuner for now.

[Jason.Henley]

I agree the VE table looks rough.. In the past I spend hours smoothing with no success, so I felt if I could get it to pull to some level of decent I would smooth everything out. . I guess I will try to start from scratch again. But because my original laptop crashed I don?t have the stock tune anymore.

[edcmat-l1]

I tried the two shops that I know of. I don?t think there are any decent tuners in my area. Neither I am will to use again. I talked to one other who stated that if they destroyed the motor in the process they are not responsible. Which I am not comfortable with and seems to be counterproductive.

The just the way it is. You can't modify an engine yourself, then if something happens to it "blame the tooner".