LS3 Turbo tune!!

[Zeppelin967]

Hey guys!! So here's is the stitch I've got a 2014 Camaro 2SS with a tr6060. I've recently done a custom Twin Turbo kit with 0.63/0.70 60mm's. The car build currently is sniper EFI short tunnel ram intake and rails, stock TB, deatchwerks 1000cc injectors and dual fuel pump, deleted fpcm, BTR stage 4 n/a cam ( changing eventually budget reasons will be going to a BTR stage 2 or 3 twin turbo cam) with matching springs and pushrods, gapped rings, return fuel system, hobb switch for fuel second pump, PTFE fuel line -8 feed and -6 return, holley pressure regulator, running on e85, 3.91 rear gears, EBoost2 controller, msd 2 step, and 2020 ZL1 wheels.

So there's a few things that I'm asking if somebody can help give advice on so I'll just start with boost building. I know that a different intake manifold more stock like and a camshaft would make a huge difference but I was looking to see if somebody could give advice on what it takes in the spark table to actually build boost or help build boost. Especially at low end because everything I have on my ignition tables are pretty conservative to keep me safe from doing anything stupid like blowing up my motor. My tune is fairly well done for an NA setup as for boost my feeling is more or less correct still need to work and fine-tune that in Right now I'm trying to work with the driveability. As far as building boost is concerned I have my boost controller turned up been running about 7 lb of boost and went to go turn it up the other day and made a pretty big jump to get closer to 10 and it only did 7.5psi check for boost leaks checked for blow off valve issues checked for wastegate hang. Nothing mechanically can be found currently even took it to a shop to have it looked at and pressure tested. So based off of a few conversations I've had it's probably tune related. Whether I don't have enough ignition timing or my curve is a little wonky possibly even PE issues. As far as the tune is concerned I'm running straight SD mode with a three-bar ZL1 map sensor that has been calibrated in the tune. In my data log that I will post you'll see in one of the sections of me trying to do a burnout and it fall flat on its face. And if you watch the boost and the maf sensor boost goes up but air flow goes down and RPMs drop. The only way I've gotten more boost is by overshifting and laying it wide open throttle and I've hit about 8.5 psi.

My second issue ever since installing the turbos he seems like even at idle the motor has more of an engine load or an air restriction which I assume could probably rectified with better idle tuning. But getting the ignition system to even go negative is like pulling teeth. What I mean by that is I have a two-step module hooked up to a relay that bypasses my IAT to see -40° but no matter how I set up my multipliers and my charts it refuses to pull timing on the two-step. I've gotten it to do it once doing a rolling two-step but that was about it. But not only that I know everybody hates this but I also have a burble tune on my coast down ignition map basically pulling timing into the negatives on coast down at zero engine load. But even there it decides that it doesn't want to go negative even though it goes through the cell I've loaded all the pids to see ignition time controlling and everything displays correctly or shows no override. Now I don't know if the negative ignition timing issue is due to torque management I haven't really messed a whole lot with that other than the basics unlimited torque per gear reducing torque control and the basic management but as far as virtual torque I haven't touched it.

So overall if someone could look at my three most recent tune files and my last two data logs I'll try to upload my hard pull from the other day soon but wanted to get this ball rolling. Thanks for any advice been tuning for three issues now with lots of study and fumbling through the forums constantly. And the entire build is of my design in my work so if there's mechanical possibilities let me know and I can check those as well. Thanks for everything!!!

[blindsquirrel]

'Stage 4' cam plus short runner intake will hurt spooling more than anything you could make up for with the spark tables. If the engine doesn't make any power down low there isn't enough energy in the exhaust to get things spinning.

[Zeppelin967]

Thanks blindsquirrel, but I know tuning can help out a lot between both fuel management and ignition timing. Any recommendations in that area? Shout out to Nathan at Iowa performance he helped out and discovered that I had input my injector data wrong a typo error in my copy and paste as well as not tuning for the return style fuel system, I know that ignition timing can still really be helpful in helping to school turbos not necessarily from a dig but overall driving performance. Not talking about going down the track talking about day-to-day driving. Anybody have any recommendations or suggestions?

[blindsquirrel]

What you may not understand is, low timing to help spool the turbo(s) will make it run like garbage until it does spool, and high timing to make it drive nice/better will hurt spool-up. You've got a fundamental mismatch in components that doesn't line up with what you would like it to do. You don't need the huge cam and short runner intake for the top end, it's got boost to do that. A smaller cam and long runner intake will light the turbos earlier and the boost will carry it out on top. You've built a bad combo of parts - unless you are doing anything other than a dedicated drag-only car.

[hjtrbo]

Nobody wants to hear your straight-piped V6 Camaro/Mustang/Challenger/350Z. You are not in a movie, you are not 'DK'. Everyone hates you.

You can add V6 Commodores to that list too. Fucken P-Platers.

[Zeppelin967]

What you may not understand is, low timing to help spool the turbo(s) will make it run like garbage until it does spool, and high timing to make it drive nice/better will hurt spool-up. You've got a fundamental mismatch in components that doesn't line up with what you would like it to do. You don't need the huge cam and short runner intake for the top end, it's got boost to do that. A smaller cam and long runner intake will light the turbos earlier and the boost will carry it out on top. You've built a bad combo of parts - unless you are doing anything other than a dedicated drag-only car.

I understand what you're saying. I'm just trying to make the best out of what I've got. The cam and the intake manifold were the ones that I've had from when it was NA. And I hated this intake manifold and the only reason why I'm currently using it is for the fuel rails. And that's fine I'm just trying to get the best out of the situation until I can't afford it to get a better cam and possibly just go back to the stock intake manifold with a different set of fuel rails. But I do appreciate you confirming what I kind of already knew was an issue.