Ahh I see. In my case, ive had worse experience with higher idle timing. Ive tried setting it higher and it makes it way worse. Thats when I tried lowering it to see if I would get a better map reading and I did, significantly, but at around 5 degrees of idle timing. Ive set it back to 18 degrees, redid the VE table using the factory table. All I did was multiple the whole map by 1.1 for the increased engine size and reduced cells at idle by 5% to test. Upon firing, my AFRs were in the 23-24:1 so I quickly shut it off. I added 10% to the area I took out 5% from and got it go down to 15:1. I disconnected the ecu to remove the ecu plug to try and get access to the pins I needed but ran out of time and had to put it all back. Whats strange is I decided to run a test with my old tuning computer. It has regular usb ports but my new laptop only has usb c so ive been using a usb a to usb c adapter. I start logging with the engine off and my wideband DOES log and doesnt disappear. Now idk if it was because I reset the battery, but the same tune that had me at 15:1 now would barely run and would read an AFR of 11:1. I ordered new cables that dont need an adapter so hopefully that takes care of that issue. I should get them in sometime tomorrow and will let you know if it fixes that issue so I can get a good log to adjust the VE table.
Just for shits and gigs, what do you think of setting idle timing to 8-10 degrees and increasing the over under idle timing adjustments? Cause when I was running that low of idle timing, my car NEVER stalled. It actually would drop the RPMS FASTER than before but would never go more than 80 rpm below target.