New Tune Rich AFR

[Mr.Bull]

Good afternoon. I am no professional tuner by any means, however after my build was complete, and 2 other gentlemen were unable to get the car running past idle (not sure if it was lack of skill or will), I decided to purchase an HP tuner module and try myself. I have been watching videos and reading for the last 3 weeks trying to learn as much as I could about setting up a tune. So when I got my HPT, I pulled my tune, and started with inputting the correct injector data. I also changed a few of the settings in the DTC for the MAF since I'm trying to run speed density and have no MAF. Fast forward to today, and I loaded my updated tune into the car and gave it a try. Viola, it starts right up and doesn't die when trying to get on the throttle. However, previously (according to my AEM wideband), it would idle at 14.3-14.7ish AFR with no problems. Now it's idling more around 10.5-11.2. When I give it any gas to increase the RPM's the throttle response is there and there is no recognizable hesitation noted but the AFR stays pretty rich. I took a log and I'm trying to figure out what to change to fix the AFR to where it doesn't burn my eyes out when I'm idling. I watched a video where a guy showed how to take the STFT+LTFT graph and make an adjustment to the VE table based off of that but I don't have that graph. Mine is STFT and LTFT in separate graphs. I searched for the STFT+LTFT option in "Add graph" but couldn't find it.

Next up is timing. I compared the timing table to the stock timing table from the repository but I'm not sure what should be changed and what is safe. The previous tuners changed it and I'm not sure why or for what. The motor is nowhere near the same engine so I'm not sure where to start here. On the spark advance log, there are numbers that are highlighted in blue. Does that mean I should change my timing table to = those numbers in blue or do I add/subtract the numbers in blue?

This is my first build and first time trying to tune so please forgive me if I am not asking the right questions. I have attached my tune and log file. The build information is as follows:

2000 SS Camaro M6
P01 ECM
LQ4 block bored to 4.060''
Forged -4cc Pistons
Gen4 connecting rods
ARP rod bolts
Bottom end internally balanced (Stock crankshaft)
Cam- 237/250 .610"int .597"exh 113+3LSA installed 2deg advanced
LS3 casting heads with valve job
Johnson 2110R SLD lifters
BTR Ultimate RPM springs
Rockers with trunion upgrade
1 7/8" headers with 3" true dual over axle exhaust
BTR Equalizer 3 intake
102mm NW throttle body
104mm lid
MAF removed
BTR fuel rails
DEKA 60lb injectors
340lph fuel pump (58psi)
ATI 15% underdrive
Catch Can (Can't remember brand)
Billet Flywheel with Monster stage 3 clutch

If anyone can take a look at my log and tell me how and where to make these changes in the tune I would greatly appreciate it. Thank you in advance.

[5FDP]

If you plan to keep it speed density forever and for the time being running it NA with no boost, I suggest you install the Speed Density Enhanced OS upgrade in the OS tab. This will remove the secondary VE table and make tuning the VE much better/faster.

Use your wideband o2 sensor and don't use fuel trims for now, it will be the only way to tune this thing. You'll drive yourself up a wall trying to use fuel trims and besides those are only good for closed loop fuel control.



A couple things you need to change right away.

Open loop EQ ratio, change that so it's commanding 1.00 above 140 degrees.

With a wideband you will want to turn off the short term trims and the long term fuel trims. Put it into open loop only so it doesn't use them to adjust fueling. Create a wideband error graph that measures the difference between the commanded air fuel ratio and the actual air fuel ratio the wideband is reading.

With large injectors like that go into the transient fuel tab and lower the minimum fuel milligrams from .045 down to .015ish or so. This will stop it from having such a rich idle.

Copy back in a stock VE table because right now the Primary VE table is far too rich. Then work the fueling from there.

These are just basic things to help get things going. It will need a lot of work still to run real well.

[Mr.Bull]

Thank you very much for the reply! That helps a lot! Should I also put the timing table back to stock and start over there as well? I just wasn't sure how much from the stock tune would carry over to such a different engine.

[curiousg7]

Timing is hard as it varies with many different aspects of the engine. However, I think 19 degrees is safe up top. I believe 5FDP has stated in the past something like 21-22 degrees is generally decent. You do have a flat 19 degrees tho starting at 2K rpm idk bout that, seems like it should ease into it a bit more. Could be wrong tho I'm still learning.