Is there a way to tell if I'm in limp mode or not via logging?
Does anyone know what conditions must be met to trigger limp mode?
Is there a way to tell if I'm in limp mode or not via logging?
Does anyone know what conditions must be met to trigger limp mode?
What do these questions pertain to?
Are you referring to REP (Reduced Engine Power)?
Anything which would significantly reduce power from the ECU freaking out about something missing etc.
I currently have an LS1 project car with about 70whp and the motor seems healthy.
Cable throttle cars in my opinion don't really have a REP mode unlike the drive by wire cars.
It can cut timing and fuel if things are wrong or if certain abuse settings are still active. You'd know you have issue if you were RPM limited in some way. Drive by wire cars in REP mode won't even let you open the throttle.
Jut going by your last thread, did you ever start tuning the VE and MAF and figure out your negative timing issue?
2016 Silverado CCSB 5.3/6L80e, not as slow but still heavy.
If you don't post your tune and logs when you have questions you aren't helping yourself.
I didn't start tuning anything yet since I don't yet have O2 sensors. I just started fabbing up the exhaust last night, so hopefully I should have sensors in tomorrow and we'll know more.
What "abuse settings" should I disable?
FYI - The car has no AC and no PS.
Also, is there no target AFR map? Am I tuning target fuel solely by VE??
There is an abuse tab on the engine side under torque mngt, Set them to like 8,000 and 0mph. Highlight over them with your mouse and read the blurp at the bottom and you see why they should be set that way.
There are target fueling tables. You have the OPEN LOOP EQ ratio which will target a certain AFR above/below and at stoich. Your stoich ratio is what the computer is always trying to achive unless in PE. If you click on the table it will be richer at lower coolant temps as it trys to warm the motor up and it's easier to run while cold with a richer mixture. Then it tails off to around 1.05 to 1.0 and maybe slightly lower as the coolant temp gets warmer. Numbers above 1.00 is richer than stoich and numbers below 1.00 are leaner than stoich.
Closed loop functions when active will then use the o2 sensors to help dial the fueling back in on it's own. If you left it in open loop forever you would have to tune the VE/MAF to get as close as possible to your target AFR/stoich number.
You also have EQ ratio under power enrichment, that number is what you would target for an AFR at full throttle. An example is (stoich) 14.68/1.180 = 12.44 AFR commanded. That number would only be targeted once you were in PE.
You use the VE and MAF airflow tables to adjust the fueling. If the car was lean all over you would add to both, the opposite if you were rich. Same goes for WOT, if you commanded 12.50 but the wideband was showing 12.8, you would add to them to get more fuel. Of course you'd be tuning using an AFR or lambda error to properly make these adjustments. This is just a general break down of how it works.
2016 Silverado CCSB 5.3/6L80e, not as slow but still heavy.
If you don't post your tune and logs when you have questions you aren't helping yourself.
Ok, I disabled all of those settings. Some of them weren't "disable-able" so I zeroed them out, etc. I also disabled the associated CELs.
But I think I figured out the issue.
Today, I completed my downpipes for the car, and welded in O2 bungs. I put two bungs in the driver's side downpipe so that way I could install a wideband.
I started the car, and to my dismay the wideband read 20.9:1 AFR. I knew this had to be wrong, because the engine wouldn't run if it were that lean. I calibrated the gauge (one I've used before for tuning) and nothing changed.
After letting it run for a few minues i decided to check the temp of the headers to make sure they were running at the proper temp. The passenger side were very hot and the driver's side were just warm.
I scanned the computer for codes. The important one was a P0200 - injector circuit.
Turns out that when the car wouldn't start last week and we found that there we found a red wire that powered the injectors, we failed to realize that it was only powering one bank. There is a green wire that powers the bank on the driver's side.
I powered that green wire, cleared the CELs, and Voila! Running on all 8.
Still runs like shit with the MAF plugged in, though.
TL;DR - Car was making no power because I was running on 4cyl due to the green injector power wire having no juice.
Just drove the car. At 1700lbs, this thing is terrifying.
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