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Thread: 4L60e issues,...bout to take a 50cal and give er the whole 9 yards

  1. #121
    Advanced Tuner Hutchinson's Avatar
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    Thanks 4.7,....I hear you on the TM and shift times. My main objective is to see how it acts once I make these changes and then decide which combination is right for my truck/application. Right now, TM is set at 50% reduction and shift times are stock. I gotta get a couple hundred miles on the trans before I start testing per above proposed tune changes.

    Spark reduction - where would I look for the "torque limits being reached" ? Sorry for the dumb question bud, I'm not following what/where your referencing. Right now, my spark reduces ~10 degrees for roughly 3-4 seconds after the shift with only ~25-30% throttle. I haven't done any WOT pulls yet,,...still working new trans in a bit.

    Lastly, would you do spark first, then pressures? Or, the other way around,....pressures, then spark?

    Thanks for the help Fast.
    Totally restored - 1996 GMC K1500 ext cab, HT383e swap, MPFI spider, 0411 PCM swap, FLT Level 5 4L60e with Sonnax Smart Tech input housing, Tru-Cool 40k transmission cooler with -6AN lines, 1-5/8" Hedman Husler long tube race headers with 2-1/2"ss dual exhaust, rebuilt 3.73 rear axle with Yukon/Detroit Helical locker, 6" ProComp lift with steering stabilizer and rear traction bars, 35x12.50x15 BFG All Terrains, Perma-Cool e-fans, etc, etc, etc,..

  2. #122
    Advanced Tuner Hutchinson's Avatar
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    Here's a copy of my last scan run with stock shift times and TM reduced 50%,... first half of the scan is sitting in driveway, waiting for engine to warm up (please disregard). Driving actually starts around 18.35.15. Does it look normal to you guys? Apologies, I have a lot of 35mph roads right around my house, before I get out on the main road/55mph speed limit. I actually get out on the 55mph zone around 18.42.39

    I see now, my spark retard roughly matches time of latest shift. Example - for 1-2 and 2-3 shifts, the spark drops in response to a 3 to 4 seconds shift time (during the shift),...yet when it shifts to 4th gear, time of latest shift on scanner reads 0.3 seconds and I have zero spark reduction. Thus, it makes sense now. Thank you. The one thing that was throwing me originally was the scanner would show "Trans Current Gear" changing the shift,...then shortly afterwards, I'd see a drop in spark advance (for the shift duration). I understand now,...its not "shift completed",...its "shift initiated" showing on the scanner's "Trans Current Gear" PID.

    The above creates a 3-4 second lag in power at each shift (except 4th) that seems to stumble/bumble the engine a bit,..then it quickly recovers and truck starts pulling again. I'm gonna drop the shift time table to zero, just to see how it acts,...then tune from there,...all the while, having "don't break stuff" planted firmly in the back of my head.

    At 18.43.33, my TCC locks up, and drops the spark from 35 to 26 for roughly 5-6 seconds,....is this normal?
    Totally restored - 1996 GMC K1500 ext cab, HT383e swap, MPFI spider, 0411 PCM swap, FLT Level 5 4L60e with Sonnax Smart Tech input housing, Tru-Cool 40k transmission cooler with -6AN lines, 1-5/8" Hedman Husler long tube race headers with 2-1/2"ss dual exhaust, rebuilt 3.73 rear axle with Yukon/Detroit Helical locker, 6" ProComp lift with steering stabilizer and rear traction bars, 35x12.50x15 BFG All Terrains, Perma-Cool e-fans, etc, etc, etc,..

  3. #123
    Advanced Tuner Hutchinson's Avatar
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    12AUG17 run on tune 6.2 to test transmission.hpl Here is the trans testing scan,....Forgot to attach,...apologies guys.
    Totally restored - 1996 GMC K1500 ext cab, HT383e swap, MPFI spider, 0411 PCM swap, FLT Level 5 4L60e with Sonnax Smart Tech input housing, Tru-Cool 40k transmission cooler with -6AN lines, 1-5/8" Hedman Husler long tube race headers with 2-1/2"ss dual exhaust, rebuilt 3.73 rear axle with Yukon/Detroit Helical locker, 6" ProComp lift with steering stabilizer and rear traction bars, 35x12.50x15 BFG All Terrains, Perma-Cool e-fans, etc, etc, etc,..

  4. #124
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    I'll never understand why people buy the most expensive transmission available then program torque reduction in fear of breaking it at the expense of this super powerful crate engine never to use it's full power.

    You should have done a stock rebuild on both if thats how you're going to program it.

  5. #125
    Advanced Tuner Hutchinson's Avatar
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    JasonB, guess I'm not following your comment bud,....I am kinda dense at times

    Per my post #119 above, I'm implementing everything you guys specified. I'll upload each successive tune/change (from y'all's reccomendations), then drive for a bit/scan,...come back home to dissect the scan results, then upload the next tune/change and do the same,.....all-the-while,....keeping that "don't break shit" thought planted firmly,....until I know how each specific change affects the truck,....then I'll decide what combination is best and git-on-it.

    I'm doing my step-tune changes this way for two reasons,.....
    1. So I can learn these changes and how the truck reacts to each change specifically.
    2. To see what combination of changes are best suited for my truck/application.

    I haven't done any of these yet,.....I gotta make the time to drive/get roughly 250 miles on this new trans before I start changing things/testing.
    Totally restored - 1996 GMC K1500 ext cab, HT383e swap, MPFI spider, 0411 PCM swap, FLT Level 5 4L60e with Sonnax Smart Tech input housing, Tru-Cool 40k transmission cooler with -6AN lines, 1-5/8" Hedman Husler long tube race headers with 2-1/2"ss dual exhaust, rebuilt 3.73 rear axle with Yukon/Detroit Helical locker, 6" ProComp lift with steering stabilizer and rear traction bars, 35x12.50x15 BFG All Terrains, Perma-Cool e-fans, etc, etc, etc,..

  6. #126
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    You can still het good power and great acceleration with shift torque reduction. In fact I find the transmission to upshift a little quicker with a small amount of torque reduction. Lets face it you can buy the strongest 4L60E and it will still be weaker than a stock 4L80E. The 350 in my Express can still make a 4L85E flare a little between shifts with no torque reduction. I have a STOCK 4L85E with a Transgo HD2 kit living behind a Duramax making close to 800 ft/lbs of torque and it has nearly 200K on it with more than half of that at that power level and alot of it towing 10K. Its just a matter of matching the engine torque to the grip of the clutches during the shift to keep from cooking them prematurely. Why shorten the life of the transmission exponentially when you can be less abusive for a fraction of a second and perhaps even double its life.

  7. #127
    Advanced Tuner Hutchinson's Avatar
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    Yeah man,,...my goal is maximizing performance, while not cooking those clutches prematurely. When I'm done testing the various set-ups mentioned in post #119, I'll report back here to let people know how each change acts/what it does (from reading Scanner). Thus, people can look at each change and decide what may work/not work for their set-up/application. Just another opinion I guess,......

    I have to take it easy till I get several hundred miles on the new engine/trans/rear end. Especially with 35x12.50 BFG's,....don't know how truck/drivetrain gonna like those beefier shoes, more power,....yet. But, I'll find out. My weak link is definitely the trans, even though I bought a good one,.....I should've put a manual in it,....then hammer down!!!
    Totally restored - 1996 GMC K1500 ext cab, HT383e swap, MPFI spider, 0411 PCM swap, FLT Level 5 4L60e with Sonnax Smart Tech input housing, Tru-Cool 40k transmission cooler with -6AN lines, 1-5/8" Hedman Husler long tube race headers with 2-1/2"ss dual exhaust, rebuilt 3.73 rear axle with Yukon/Detroit Helical locker, 6" ProComp lift with steering stabilizer and rear traction bars, 35x12.50x15 BFG All Terrains, Perma-Cool e-fans, etc, etc, etc,..

  8. #128
    I agree with post #124. I posted what I thought was some good trans settings but some questioned it which is fine. I would get rid of all that TM and spark retard, give it some shift and line pressure and let it rip but that's just me.

    EDIT: Went back and looked at post #119 and that looks good to me. Even though I'm running a 80e those settings are close to what I'm running and it feels and performs excellent. However, I do have a loser converter which will reduce the shift fill at low speeds. A properly built 60e shouldn't have any problems with more pressure and the other adjustments mentioned.
    Last edited by monte4ever; 08-22-2017 at 10:26 PM.