Turbo 5.3 Random Misfire

[Mr. Smith]

Damn.
Idk.
Only other things I've noticed is,
- you don't have Cylinder Airmass selected in Channels so when you look at your Spark Retard in Graphs, you can only see 1 line (0.08g) worth of info instead of all the cells you hit (so it might help with the troubleshooting if you add it to your list)
- in your Spark Retard graph in Graphs, when you look at your SR max values ("+"), you get 0 knock from 0 to 1,800rpm, 2 degrees knock from 2K to 2,400rpm(/2,800) and 8 degrees knock from 2,800 to 4,400rpm. That might be a clue.

Other than that,
Compare your spark tables to your stock tune and other cars..
Make sure you didn't accidently put positive spark values instead of negative ones somewhere..
Check plugs and leads/wires for damage and make sure they're on tight..
Spool it up on brakes with your hood open at night to check for sparks..
Prey and wait for the HPT big dogs to help you..

I doubt your delayed/late-shifting trans is the problem or part of it. I'm pretty sure I don't get (false) knock from it and you're getting pretty bad knock from under 3,500rpm after minutes worth of low rpms and putting your foot down. Look at your log from 10:15 to 12:25

[itsforsale2]

Damn.
Idk.
Only other things I've noticed is,
- you don't have Cylinder Airmass selected in Channels so when you look at your Spark Retard in Graphs, you can only see 1 line (0.08g) worth of info instead of all the cells you hit (so it might help with the troubleshooting if you add it to your list)
- in your Spark Retard graph in Graphs, when you look at your SR max values ("+"), you get 0 knock from 0 to 1,800rpm, 2 degrees knock from 2K to 2,400rpm(/2,800) and 8 degrees knock from 2,800 to 4,400rpm. That might be a clue.

Other than that,
Compare your spark tables to your stock tune and other cars..
Make sure you didn't accidently put positive spark values instead of negative ones somewhere..
Check plugs and leads/wires for damage and make sure they're on tight..
Spool it up on brakes with your hood open at night to check for sparks..
Prey and wait for the HPT big dogs to help you..

I doubt your delayed/late-shifting trans is the problem or part of it. I'm pretty sure I don't get (false) knock from it and you're getting pretty bad knock from under 3,500rpm after minutes worth of low rpms and putting your foot down. Look at your log from 10:15 to 12:25

I followed your directions and went back to an old known good spark table from back when the truck was NA. I took 5 degrees out of both spark tables to start. So far it has been getting better. I also lowered the wastgate pressure so I am only running maybe a pound or two of boost. I figure if i cant get the KR out of the lower regions I shouldnt be running it in the fun regions. Its always easier to pull over and work on the tune than change pistons.

Here is my most recent tune and log.

Thanks again to all that help.

On another note I am sure you guys have all went through the "Hold my laptop" with your girlfriends and wives while driving. So tell them thanks as well.


S10 4 29 17.hpl

s10 turbo mod tune 4 29 17.hpt

[itsforsale2]

Attached is a final run for the night.

I am still getting KR at 3600 rpm till about 4800 rpm. I have attached a log file. It seems that there is something in the tune causing this. I have tried loosing timing, adding timing, leaning it out, richening it up. (not in that order.) Nothing seems to help. Im only running maybe 3 lbs of boost. I am running a fresh tank of 91. (no 93 or E85 here).


s10 log file 4 29hw 2017.hpl
turbo layout 6.Layout.xml
s10 turbo mod tune 4 29xx 17.hpt


Anything here seem wrong?

Im thinking the Knock sensors are more sensitive in that region and thats whats bringing it up but I have been wrong before. Other than than the KR the truck runs great.

[Mr. Smith]

I was going to say try a bottle of octane booster.. but you live/drive pretty high above sea level and running very low boost.. so your fuel should be alright.

I think your timing is a little too aggressive at 0.40g and below of your main/high spark table where you're getting knock in those 5 cells. I'd just subtract that KR/timing from the spark advance table and be done with it.. (and edit Low table)
.. then try to figure out why you're getting that knock in the 30 other cells from above 0.40 (to 0.84g cyl.airmass).

I've had a good look but can't figure it out. Everything seems normal. Might be just what it wants. Less timing.

Oh.. you said you've already tried....
did you pull 8 degrees out or like 2.. or 0.8 accidently?
Maybe remove 20% of your Knock Retard Attack > Base Retard table. See if that = 20% less knock.


Btw, my laptop never moves from my passenger seat when logging. I don't even use the seatbelt on it. And I drive it hard. Semi-sporty leather seats fyi (marinated in vagina juice.....j/k)

[itsforsale2]

Thanks Mr Smith. I tried the Summit Race Gas octane booster today. I had about 5 gallons in the tank and poured in half the bottle. It didnt seem to help but it was also hot outside. I then poured in the rest of the bottle and went to the gas station and filled up on non ethanol 91 (best gas here). Nothing seemed to help. I will try to lower my timing in the .40g cells and surrounding. I will pull a bunch and report back. Even if its slow from the lack of timing I dont care I just want the KR to go away.

I have been think of getting a meth kit but my low boost I shouldnt need it. I believe its tune or mechanical related.


FYI The GF is not happy about this truck taking up so much of my time.

Her "wanna have date night?"
Me "will you hold my laptop?"
Her " Nevermind"

[dermotw]

Hi,

I'm not sure it even helps, but I looked through all yr parameters, setup etc, and for what its worth, like Mr. Smith I don't really see anything "wrong" except that you appear to need about 10 deg timing or even less on load, but I assume you have already done that(?). What I would have done is looked at the graph like this;
Capture.JPG

And just ripped out that amount of timing in those locations. I believe thats what Mr. Smith was saying also. BTW I also noticed that compared to my KR detection settings, yours already are set significantly LESS sensitive than mine, meaning that if you see something, probably its real. If you look at yr own graphs you can see;

Capture.JPG

Taking the 3rd event (but others are similar) - It goes into KR at 16, winds down to 11, then gets KR again, down to 10.4, again, down to around 9, it would probably go a bit lower, but I believe yr SPARK >> RETARD >> max knock retard vs. rpm in PE is set at 8 degrees so it can't... you might want to stick that table at 10 or 12 degrees and see where the KR goes to... fuel goes a bit leaner there too...

EDIT: Of course if you just reduce the timing first then 8 deg will be enough, obviously...

The only other thing to cause it (which does not seem likely) is some mechanical thing...

[dermotw]

This is what your Hi table looks like with that much roughly hacked out of it;

Capture.JPG

[Mr. Smith]

...but I believe yr SPARK >> RETARD >> max knock retard vs. rpm in PE is set at 8 degrees so it can't... you might want to stick that table at 10 or 12 degrees and see where the KR goes to...

Ya.. was going to suggest the same thing the other day too.


See how much KR you get then..
Find some/more Turbo 5.3 LS tunes to compare all your spark tables to..
And fix your LO Spark table.. especially in the area you're getting all that knock.


I feel as though it's a spark multiplier adding timing when it shouldn't be..
One interesting thing I noticed is that the 1 or 2 only times you didn't get knock when you put your foot down was when your coolant was under 80 degrees C. All the times you got knock was when your ECT was 80 degrees C or over.
Coincidence?
Multiplier?

[itsforsale2]

Thanks So much. I will look into all of this today and report back with results