Could you guys take a look at this tune?

[1320069222]

Track only fox body 2500lbs
1/8th mile bracket car. runs 7.40s at 97 mph. (SD Open loop / no O2s)
lm7 stock bottom, 706 heads, tunnel ram with 102 TB, MS4 with double springs, 3inch fender exit headers.
powerglide, 4.88s with 28x10.50 slicks.
i know this tune will not look street friendly. just need it to scream for 6.5 seconds. I need more torque in the 3000-4000 range.
upgraded to a 5500 stall conerter that is a little tight. which is great, but i cant break through it on the transbrake. stuck around 3400 .
anything you see would be helpful. my 60' is horrible (like 1.89 horrible). if i can get higher on the converter, Ill be in the mid 6s. dont want to loosen the converter just yet, cause it will be awesome if i can somehow hit the 2 step between 4-4500. I do have a healthy wet shot on it, but prefer to run the bracket natural. not looking to change out or modify heads just yet. want to see what it can really do out of the box.
just replaced o2s, and went closed loop today. still running SD.

[tbrtuning]

Got a log?

[1320069222]

will have to get one tomorrow. too many baby strollers in the neighborhood today.
my old logs dont give any afr data without the o2s.

[tbrtuning]

Also, what kind of compression? No mention if the heads are stock or what. Experimenting with different spark and EQ Ratio are probably going to be your best bet but I will try to scan through the tune when I can to see if anything stands out.

[tbrtuning]

Adding the O2 sensors and enabling fuel trims is going to mess you up if you have already experimented with what EQ Ratio you run best at... If you have positive fuel trims it will add fuel even at WOT

[Oleblu]

The PE enable delay is set to 5500 rpm and the enrichment rate is super low. Is there any reason for not lowering the rpm delay, especially on a track only car. also STFT is disabled which is right for closed loop SD but LTFT is enabled still. Just a couple things at first glance i noticed. Your VE table is nice especially for a track car.

[1320069222]

9.5.1 i assume. bone stock 706 cathedrals. I have a deal on a gen4 6.0 that im working for this year, so i really dont want to get into this motor if i dont have to. Going back to the track saturday, and can get some full logs. tomorrow i can just get somes logs running it up on the transbrake, and maybe some flash stalls. the car wont hold the street out here. once it hits the 5000 rpm range, its like riding in the space shuttle. shifting at 7000, and loving it. the 1.89 60' was on a tci street fighter that would flash to about 3300. i dont make any real torque on this cam till around 5200+. I know the 5500 stall will be a huge improvement, but need some ideas on what to tweak on at the track if I can get those rpms up at the tree.
you mentioned spark and ratio, which are about the only things i normally adjust in the pits. would you recommend going back to open loop on the track, or should i tune it closed loop with 02s and learn how to adjust the VEs properly?

[1320069222]

sorry didnt see your post first

[1320069222]

just swapped everything back to closed loop today. almost everything. would pe enable at 0 be acceptable. i wasnt sure where to go with that #

[tbrtuning]

It's a truck ECU. They are ridiculous on the PE enable settings. Definitely would change that. For a bracket car running a bit more conservative tune without needing to get into IAT spark subtractors all the time would probably be more consistent. Might as well zero your AFR correction table also. Just one less place to have to look for a modifier. Get rid of Burst Knock too. I'm curious what kind of load you're hitting when stuck in the mid 3000 RPM range.

[Oleblu]

0-1000 is perfectly acceptable PE enable delay for a track car. your PE throttle % enable table is setup well for 0 rpm delay. I would hike that enrichment rate to max if it were me. ridenrunwv has sound advice. ohh what I would give to have a track car, the ride looks good and seems like a legit budget engine build for a bracket racing setup. Good luck.

[1320069222]

disabled both fuel trims in closed loop . set pe enable to 0, and pwr enrich up to 1.50. as far as 02s go, Ive never had a funtional set till now. wasnt sure if those were going to be beneficial. since the car was leaving like a slug off the old converter, i never could tell what eq ratio she liked the best. maybe the logs from this next trip to the track will enlighten me a bit.
I greatly appreciate the help. sure would love to see those 6s this weekend. ive already upset a few "pony lovers" . they dont like loosing to a junkyard tahoe motor.

[Oleblu]

If your gonna run closed loop with o2's you might as well turn on stft. I would leave ltft disabled as any positive ltft will carry over into wot. no reason for long term trims on a track only car anyways. honestly i'm not sure how much more your going to be able to push up through that stall without actually making considerably more power under 3500 rpm. You need more cubes, That 6.0 would definitely make more torque under the curve with the same cam. Though it might not pull to 7000 as well as the 5.3 does with that cam.

[tbrtuning]

That's the kind of build I like. Narrowband O2 sensors won't really benefit you. Widebands with enough pipe after them to get a good reading might be helpful. How did you get your VE table setup?

[Oleblu]

curious about this also I was assuming this thing was probably dyno tuned with a wideband shoved up a header collector or something similar to that. Does this car have a dedicated wideband? or has it been tuned via wideband at the very least.

[1320069222]

Have about 20" of pipe beyond the collectors, with bungs. But no, never wideband. I did have functional narrows to start, but had one fail before getting some good logs. Went to open loop there after. My tuning is all based on info I researched from this site, and others. Nobody runs this setup, so copy and paste doesn't work to well. I had to compare a lot of tunes from 5.7s, 6.0s, and 5.3s. tweeked from my data logs at the strip, and so on. Surely still room for improvement. Honestly didn't think wideband would be necessary unless I used forced induction. Dyno tuners in Atlanta want $1200 to fix me up. I'd rather push it across the finish line.

[Oleblu]

In my opinion it's an absolute must to have a dedicated wideband especially for a track car. God only knows what your actual afr/lambda really is, you could be running this thing piss rich and not even know it (leaving power on the table) or worse it could be piss lean (dangerously leaving power on the table) and you have no way of determining so. I would before anything purchase a dedicated wideband for this vehicle. 1200 bucks is an absurd amount of money for a dyno tune. where im at its 450 bucks and sometimes the dude spends three days or more on a car before its how he likes it. Iv'e got nothing but good to say about the local tuner here. after you run the car today put up a log with o2mv readouts this way we can determine at the very least if your running it to rich or to lean. usually a decent wot o2 mv reading will be somewhere in the 890-920 range. but shit that could be anywhere between 13.0- 11.5 AFR. A wideband will be the only way you can really dial in this setup safely. Install a bung with atleast 12" of piping behind it otherwise you will decay the accuracy of a wideband.

[tbrtuning]

Injection timing is still stock with a big cam also. Look into that.

[1320069222]

alright. going back to closed loop for now, intill i can get wide band set up. cant even gen a clean log. running so rich, im fouling plugs. (maybe injector timing?)
so, as for wideband... is the dual sensor kit necessary, or will a single get it done?
someone mention zeroing out afr correction table... Im not seeing it.
also, regarding the injector timing. Im a bit nervous in regards to making the changes. Dont quite comprehend the math formula, and worried about being way out of wack. or at least more so than currently.
Cam is an MS4
intake 239 exhaust 242
lobe is .382 intake and .353 exhaust
lift @ 1.7 .649 Intake and .600 exhaust
intake center line is 110

anybody want to tackle that one?

[Earwax]

After you get the stock O2`s working and enabled. Make a pass (new plugs) with a log and do a plug reading on the top end. Do not let the motor idle before checking the plugs.This will confirm if the motor is rich or lean at WOT.You can also read the mark on the ground strap for ignition timing.This works whether you have a W/B or not.Check the FPR for leaks,if running a stock one on the fuel rail. Here is a link that may help

https://forum.efilive.com/showthread...jection-timing