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Thread: KR number setting question

  1. #1

    KR number setting question

    Does making the numbers for cylinders 1-6 knock sensor levels higher or lower make the KR sensor less sensitive?

    I am trying to see why i get KR under moderate throttle..typically 2-4k rpm range. Usually does it if i am cruising then give it gas. Doesn't do it all the time which makes it harder to figure out where its coming from. The KR can be as much as 8 degrees some times. Under WOT i don't have the issue, only on the initial hit which is normal. I tried pulling timing in that rpm range but still pops up. I am running e85 gas and avg 74 content. Plugs look fine.

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by benf View Post
    Does making the numbers for cylinders 1-6 knock sensor levels higher or lower make the KR sensor less sensitive?

    I am trying to see why i get KR under moderate throttle..typically 2-4k rpm range. Usually does it if i am cruising then give it gas. Doesn't do it all the time which makes it harder to figure out where its coming from. The KR can be as much as 8 degrees some times. Under WOT i don't have the issue, only on the initial hit which is normal. I tried pulling timing in that rpm range but still pops up. I am running e85 gas and avg 74 content. Plugs look fine.
    You messing with a LFX or LLT car?

    Asking because they are different between each other.

    LLT PCM's knock sensor tables- lower the value the more sensitive.
    LFX PCM's knock sensor tables- these are multiplier tables, so the lower the value the less knock when not in the transient mode (transient mode is determined by the transient mode tabs under Knock Tip In) there is no actual knock sensitivity tables like some other PCM's. You can lower the Base Retard table, if you believe it is actual false knock. Also you can disable your burst knock retard for the tip in of throttle.

    Verify nothing is loose in the engine bay or on the engine causing vibrations or exhaust rattles.

  3. #3
    I did check for loose stuff and only item is the heat shield. No matter how bumpy the road it doesn't trigger the false knock so I'm not convinced it's the shield.

  4. #4
    It is a LFX.

  5. #5
    Little confused, so am I supposed to lower the numbers under knock sensor level multipliers for cylinders 1-6 if I want to make it less sensitive for my Lfx?

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by benf View Post
    Little confused, so am I supposed to lower the numbers under knock sensor level multipliers for cylinders 1-6 if I want to make it less sensitive for my Lfx?
    There is no actual sensitivity table for the LFX. Knock Sensor Lever Multipliers tables multiply the knock when not in transient mode only (which is pretty much never if the Transient Mode tables are left stock). The Transient Multiplier table is the multiplier when in transient mode (which is pretty much always if the Transient mode tables are left stock), which is factory set to 1.0 across the board already.

    But something you can look into also that might help you get this knock issue solved, if you haven't already. Is to raise the Knock Retard Decay Rate table. This table is how fast knock retard is removed once knock is no longer being detected. Factory table is very low, so knock takes forever to go away. So I typically set to 1.0 across the board, but I have seen others go even higher (being removing knock faster).

    So to clear this up, don't even mess with the Knock Sensor Level Multiplier. You won't get any results from messing with them.

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by Mark@TuckerPerformance View Post
    There is no actual sensitivity table for the LFX. Knock Sensor Lever Multipliers tables multiply the knock when not in transient mode only (which is pretty much never if the Transient Mode tables are left stock). The Transient Multiplier table is the multiplier when in transient mode (which is pretty much always if the Transient mode tables are left stock), which is factory set to 1.0 across the board already.

    But something you can look into also that might help you get this knock issue solved, if you haven't already. Is to raise the Knock Retard Decay Rate table. This table is how fast knock retard is removed once knock is no longer being detected. Factory table is very low, so knock takes forever to go away. So I typically set to 1.0 across the board, but I have seen others go even higher (being removing knock faster).

    So to clear this up, don't even mess with the Knock Sensor Level Multiplier. You won't get any results from messing with them.
    is this the table you said to mod? If so it is already at 2.0
    Attached Images Attached Images

  8. #8
    do u think I should mess with these settings?kr2.jpg

  9. #9
    here is a screen shot from driving to work this morning and what I am dealing with. Notice I am only around 38% tps. Also, most of the knock is coming from cylinders 1 & 3 with 3 being the worst. I'm thinking its cause its closest to the sensor on the pass side of the block.2_1 log.jpg.
    Last edited by benf; 02-01-2017 at 06:11 PM.

  10. #10
    I checked the plugs and swapped the coils around and still 95% of my KR is cylinder number 3 and sometimes number 1 cylinder. Only seems to be in transient fueling. Runs fine at light throttle, Cruise, and WOT.
    Last edited by benf; 02-06-2017 at 10:13 AM.