Trans tutorials - A6 specifically in 2015 SS

[Flyer]

These are loads different than the A4's on the older vehicles.

A few specific questions ..

From what I can tell there's Pattern A and B, the X, Y, and Z. Can someone help me make since of these. From what I can tell, they are mostly all the same, but it appears that there is a different pattern for one of the suspension settings (Tour, Sport, Perf, and Track). In the file it is labeled 'Towing' though, so there's a possibility to it being a hold over from the Holden car since the Commodore does actually have a tow rating and a Class 3 platform hitch available.

How and where do I change things to make a firmer and quicker shift? I understand this may be a 2 part question.

Is it normal practice to reduce or eliminate torque management?

The car is a 2015 SS Sedan. It's completely stock at the moment. I am waiting on an order with a RotoFab and full exhaust. Most likely a converter is next in the 2400-3000 range. These should make way for a cam install. Which will lead to eventually a set of heads and maybe a blower. Tune posting coming.

[Flyer]

file upload

stock.hpt

[5FDP]

There really is not a, b, x, y and z to worry about on these transmissions because it already tells you what it uses. You can see that under auto shift properties > shift pressure it tells you exactly what it uses in each mode.

95% of the time it's pattern X unless you are in TUTD. Performance mode is pattern X and normal mode is pattern X. Those are the only tables you have to touch if given the option of what pattern to choose.

Do not remove TM on a 6L80e, the transmission will not like it. Reducing it some can be done if you know what you are doing but you do not need to do that.


They are pretty complicated transmissions but for most people there are only 3-4 sections you ever have to touch to make them shift "better".

Upshift torque factor Upshift normal - controls transmission shift speed. View the table to see how shift time gets faster as engine torque is higher. If you want to keep things safe without worry of trying to destroy parts, keep shifts around .2600-.2900 at the fastest under very heavy throttle/high rpm. In a truck the number would be slightly higher because of weight. Don't really worry about 5th and 6th gear, those are over drive gears and are already fine.

Shift pressure can be touched, again I wouldn't go crazy at first. Maybe 5-15% in certain area's.

On-coming pressure presets also work into how quickly it shifts. Small changes first to the 0,1,2 lines. Change everything to read PSI instead of KPA to keep things simple. Again only really have to touch gears 1-4. For example, that file shows 11, 35, 59 for first gear. Try something like 16, 46, 70. Then similar small steps for 2-3 and 3-4 shifts.

Just note that any pressure change must be followed with a transmission reset/preset in the VCM scanner before driving, otherwise the changes won't take 100%. You can find that in the VCM scanner functions prior to driving the car and after flashing the new file. First few shifts may lurch some as it learns.


This isn't super detailed but you get the general idea for minor changes.

[Flyer]

So ... I changed a whole bunch of things. Not really, just a bunch of things to the same thing .. i.e. normal, pattern a, and pattern b and then for pattern x, y, and z.

Interesting find ... The trailer reference is .. when the shifter is moved to the sport mode. However when in SPORT mode and you bump the shifter up or down, it it goes into TUTD. So ... in D (normal driving) modes, it goes with normal. I couldn't initiate the manual mode in my driveway in D by tapping the paddles on the wheel.

For grins here's the revised file. I have not tested yet, haven't even flashed it yet.

v 1.00.hpt

I'm struggling with myself to tell you the truth. The car is new still! 2015 with less than 1500 miles on it, I've put 1000 on it already. I haven't made the first payment yet.

[5FDP]

For the most part it looks okay, some of the stuff I would have just left alone because it will really never matter if you changed all those extra tables.

Just follow that last step I talked about after you flash the tune file to make the adjustments take.

Also don't be afraid to save the tune file more than once if you change a lot of things at once. Makes it easier to go back if something doesn't work right with one of the tunes you made. Also never over write the stock file, you always want that as a back up.


Lots is still left on the table for the engine side, many things hold these cars back.

[Flyer]

Haven't touched engine yet. This isn't my first rodeo. The trans tables are new to me though. Once I pop that cherry I'll work the engine over and start getting it running better. I'll probably wait til after the header / exhaust install. Since the car won't be virgin anymore that should make it easier for me to write a file.

[1Topgun]

For the most part it looks okay, some of the stuff I would have just left alone because it will really never matter if you changed all those extra tables.

Just follow that last step I talked about after you flash the tune file to make the adjustments take.

Also don't be afraid to save the tune file more than once if you change a lot of things at once. Makes it easier to go back if something doesn't work right with one of the tunes you made. Also never over write the stock file, you always want that as a back up.


Lots is still left on the table for the engine side, many things hold these cars back.

Do you have some tips for basic engine tuning on a 2011 Suburban 5.3? (still all stock at this time). It's a daily driver with some occasional light trailer towing. I'm considering adding a K&N FIPK intake in a couple months, but that's it.

I made some of your suggested changes to my trans tune, and it feels a lot better... Thanks! Mike