2007 Saturn Sky redline spark maps advanced

[snowprophet1]

Spark Timing Charts.jpg


Hello! Newbie here trying to attach my timing charts for all to criticize/give comments. I am new to the HP tuner, reading night after night until my eyes bleed or I fall asleep!
My brother and I are trying to tune his 07 sky redline. Brand new GM block, head, and turbo. I ported the head and we are carefully tuning now that it is broke in.
The short version... we took it to the strip last Sunday and with the better of the maps we had, started to tune some basic changes.
1st run, afr 11.5:1 ,23psi= 15.2 ET.
2nd run afr 12:1, 23psi=15.2 ET.
Then, only worrying about the drag strip wide open runs, I did a dinosaur timing advance and made like I twisted the distributor, and added +2 degrees advance across the board to all 4 cam spark advancd timing charts (just for the drag race tune at this point, not road driving necessarily). Starting with what was in our computer for the stock timing (as far as we know it), we now started watching and listening with the afr left at 12:1 and watching live for knock retard.
At +2 advance=15.0 ET
at +4 =14.7 no kr
at +7 =14.5 no kr
at +9 =14.3 no kr
at+11=14.1 no kr
at+13=13.97! Did 2 runs back to back because of just a couple blips of low knock retard. One run had a couple blips, and the other run had none. But we decided to stop there.

On the drive home, no knock retard. We are running 93 octane and even though the drive home looked safe on the data, we decided to back off the timing a bit to an earlier stage until we investigate this +13 degrees of extra timing.
I don't plan on leaving the tune this way with a full extra 13 degrees of advance across the board. I still have a lot to learn about the whole tune before I do much more.

I would invite any experienced solstice/sky tuner that would be able to look at this timing map and give any input on being dangerous, about right for that drag race setup, or any thoughts of it being good or bad to run this way. I have a lot to learn and only want to be safe. If it takes me a year to get it right and understand what I need to, then so be it. In the end, we want to go with a bigger turbo, because we installed good rods and pistons in the new bottom end and could be good for as high as 800hp for the bottom end, and 7,000-8,000rpms for the balance. (we are definitely not shooting for those numbers, and know the stock valves/springs are not at that level).
Thanks for all your inputs and thanks to everybody on this sight for such informative help I've been reading so much of lately! Marc Matczak Erie, Pa

[snowprophet1]

timing during +13 degree run.png
Here is the recorded 1/4 mile run charting the spark advance. I guess there were a couple 2, 3, 4, and 5 degrees of knock retard on that run, but not constant. The other run did not.

[JimmyS]

What happened to the engine that required it to be rebuilt/replaced?

[snowprophet1]

Had an extreme rod knock from previous owner. Bought it this way and only heard it run and towed it home. The oil carried metal through everything. Before running the vehicle, we pulled the map from the car and a few items looked very out of place maybe from possibly an "oops" keystroke from somebody modifying the tune previously. My brother got a stock map to put into it, and we are trying to carefully dial it in from there, but now it has a ported head, so I don't expect the stock tune to be exactly the same.

[JimmyS]

http://www.hptuners.com/forum/showth...357-LNF-Guides