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Thread: How to set up EIO when you have a voltage offset

  1. #21
    Señor Tuner MeentSS02's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by soundengineer
    yeah..I'm quick draw
    Too bad I've already come up with another question for you (above)

    Edit - DOH...nevermind.
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  2. #22
    Senior Tuner S2H's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MeentSS02
    Too bad I've already come up with another question for you (above)
    we should go to the lounge and have a fast response thread..see how many people we can get into it and see how far it can go..
    not today though..I got a bunch of stuff to do..LOL

    and I was busy answering your other post
    -Scott -

  3. #23
    Señor Tuner MeentSS02's Avatar
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    Yep...saw that one too

    It makes sense that car running vs. car off wouldn't have an impact...I guess a voltage offset is a voltage offset. I'll go back and look at it tonight to verify though.
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  4. #24
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    The WBC does NOT suport a fixed voltage reporting...

    Can I configure one of my EIO "outputs" to output the raw voltage being read on one of the EIO "inputs"??? OR is the output a simple trigger report for an on, off or equal to condition???

    I was thinking of taking the above (if possible) and running it back into my WBC box (it has two 0-5v inputs available). Then Log the results with my WBC software and compare the results of what the WBC is sending "out" the output to what it is receiving in (from my EIO box) the input...

    The results would be easier to compare, considering the log would show both input and output for each specific time stamp. Maybe???
    Last edited by SideStep; 03-28-2006 at 01:08 PM.
    2007 CTS-V LS2

  5. #25
    Señor Tuner MeentSS02's Avatar
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    Hmmmmmmmmm...never messed with EIO outputs before. Not sure on this one...
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  6. #26
    Senior Tuner S2H's Avatar
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    you can log raw voltage with the EIO...
    again...let it hang in the air..hit a multimeter in the WB leads...
    and check EIO voltage...
    do teh math after you are done checking it
    -Scott -

  7. #27
    Senior Tuner S2H's Avatar
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    also....
    if your wideband says that it shoudl be sending 3 volts..then you need to see 3 volts..if you see anything else..then you have an offset...
    if your free air calibration is supposed to = 5 volts..then you better see 5 volts...if you see 4.85...its not 5 volts and you should adjust your equation in the scanner accordingly....

    you always go by what your WB config software says it should be.
    if you cant access to see what it should be..then you should contact your wideband manufacturer to find out for sure about it
    -Scott -

  8. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by soundengineer
    .050 is good..that only comes out to 0.03125 AFR if its using teh same formula that is in teh help files of volts/.625+10(makes it a 10~18 AFR device)
    I think the biger issue is to figure out if that is supposed to be your MAX afr voltage or if its supposed to actually report 5.0volts in free air

    Sorry Scott... I moved this post to this thread, where is belongs...

    I agree, I need to know if on a DynoJet WBC 4.63 equals an AFR of 18 and higher. It has to, right??? There were no exhaust fumes in my garage; as a matter of fact there was a cold breeze. I could speculate that if 4.63v equals 18 then 5v less (-0.37 ??? ) would equal an AFR of 10??? Good lord I reaching for straws...

    2007 CTS-V LS2

  9. #29
    Senior Tuner S2H's Avatar
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    that is the coprrect way of thinking...
    if 5v was supposed to be 18 afr...
    then you have an offset of -0.37...which equals -0.23125 afr
    so volts/0.625+10.23125 would be your 10-18 afr
    which would explain why some guys say their dynojet is .2-.3 different than their in bung o2 on a car without cats...

    you could try to pig rich a car to get the afr down on the 9's to see what your voltage is down there....
    then make a new equation to represent your real 10-18 afr
    but thats more reaching for straws....

    you shoudl contact dynojet and find out for certain..adn like I said..maybe they have some configuration software that you just dont know about
    -Scott -

  10. #30
    Senior Tuner S2H's Avatar
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    I think I just told you guys backwayrds...LOL

    sorry about that.everybody double check your math...
    should be volt offset/volt for equation...
    meanng the above should be -0.37/.625 an afr offset of -0.592!!!!
    -Scott -

  11. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by soundengineer
    I think I just told you guys backwayrds...LOL

    sorry about that.everybody double check your math...
    should be volt offset/volt for equation...
    meanng the above should be -0.37/.625 an afr offset of -0.592!!!!
    That changes things... I had better go look at my spreadsheet...

    2007 CTS-V LS2

  12. #32
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    I just got off the phone with DJ and was told with the sensor hanging out in the air it should read 5.0v. Sooooo I am reading a steady 4.63v, also, they have no calibration software for it

    This leaves me know with two problems....

    1. My WBC is reporting 4.63v for 18 AFR (or leaner)... should be 5.0v

    2. My EIO is reporting .050v diffferent from what it is being told by the WBC...
    ---WBC reads 4.63v and EIO reports 4.58v

    2007 CTS-V LS2

  13. #33
    Senior Tuner S2H's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SideStep
    I just got off the phone with DJ and was told with the sensor hanging out in the air it should read 5.0v. Sooooo I am reading a steady 4.63v, also, they have no calibration software for it

    This leaves me know with two problems....

    1. My WBC is reporting 4.63v for 18 AFR (or leaner)... should be 5.0v

    2. My EIO is reporting .050v diffferent from what it is being told by the WBC...
    ---WBC reads 4.63v and EIO reports 4.58v

    in your case you need to correct for what it should be outputting...
    so 5v - 4.58v = 0.42v = .672AFR !!!!
    volts/.625 + 10.672
    -Scott -

  14. #34
    Senior Tuner S2H's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SideStep
    That changes things... I had better go look at my spreadsheet...

    and yeah....I had a brain fart....after doing all teh computing I was doing on a mpg pid..I was a little fried for math for a few days..LOL
    -Scott -

  15. #35
    Tuning Addict WS6FirebirdTA00's Avatar
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    here is what i did that helped, dont knwo if its posted anywhere else but....

    i commanded a certain voltage while in warm up. in hp tuners i logged the afr and had an average going. for example, my lc1 was set to go to 2.45 volts or 14.7:1 on warm up, the average in hp tuners was 14.72:1, i did the same for 0.05 volts and 5 volts. i just made sure the average matched up with what it was to command. i did it this was as well to fix my gauge (autometer) to report correctly and i just adjusted on the curve for the right offset. actually i am using default lc-1 settings on output 2 and its matching up great with my ground scheme
    Sulski Performance Tuning
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  16. #36
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    Hmm so many options that are kinda confusing...

    I set up HPT to read Raw Voltage and this is what I came up with

    0V = .005 - .005 OFFSET
    .5V = .488 - .012 OFFSET
    1V = .986 - .014 OFFSET
    1.5V = 1.478 - .021 OFFSET
    2V= 1.979 - .021 OFFSET
    2.5V = 2.466 - .034 OFFSET
    3V = 2.690 - .031 OFFSET
    3.5V = 3.462 - .036 OFFSET
    4V = 3.940 - .060 OFFSET
    4.5V = 4.370 - .130 OFFSET
    5V = 4.692 - .306 OFFSET

    I used an average offset of .030 and ended up with

    VOLTS / .5 + 10.06 in HPTuners custom PID

    Is this correct or should I go a different route?

    For some reason the offsets past 4V double up. I decided to use a voltage range of 0-4 Volts

    0 Volts = 10 AFR
    4 Volts = 18 AFR

    Is this correct?? what would be the best way to set this up?
    Last edited by Cyclone Chris; 01-25-2007 at 01:43 PM.
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  17. #37
    this seems to be such good info for me when I actually get HPT. I have a autometer wide band. it gives a output that ranges from 0 to 4 volts for 10 to 20 af. I should be able to get the gauge to work then I am hoping with a little tinkering. any confirmation that it will be alright?

  18. #38
    Tuning Addict WS6FirebirdTA00's Avatar
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    Yes I have one and use the formula volts/.6666+11.7
    Sulski Performance Tuning
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  19. #39
    Good Thread..

    I am not trusting my dual LC-1 setup, and before I get going on the 2bar SD tuning (procharged 408) I want to gain some faith in my setup.

    A little background,
    RH LC-1 is a first gen series, approx 18 months old, but only has about 3000 miles on it.

    LH LC-1 is new, installed with my new 408.

    Both sensors are located in the exact same position on opposing sides meaning the bung was welded in the same proximity to the OEM NB, header collector, and Cat. They were clocked slightly off from the OEM to preclude any airflow disruption.

    Both LC-1's are calibrated to : 10:00 -17.98 w 1/6th sampling rate

    While I am not much of a believer in the whole ground to the block vs car body discussion. I decided to go ahead and run all the ground wires directly to the -post on the battery to preclude that from even being a player.


    I followed cyclone Chris lead ( thanks ) and set my HPT scanner table EIO inputs to read raw voltage. the results are a .20 voltage difference between the two LC-1's (car not running)

    LH:4.731 V
    RH:4.937 V

    I removed the sensors from the exhaust, performed a free air calibration, and litterally nothing changed???

    So I presume I have a situation with one sensor being newer than the other?
    also I presume that to ensure accurate WB SD tuning I am going to have to create custom PID's for each sensor?? just not totally clear on how to do that.

    any help is appreciated.
    Last edited by b727pic; 03-05-2007 at 06:08 PM.
    2004 GTO M6, 403, Callies, compstar, wiseco, QTP HV oil pump, QTP 2 piece timing cover, EDC custom AFR 235's, LS6 intake, P1SC-1 Procharger maxed @ 13psi, 224/232 600/600 114 EDC custom cam, JBA shortie headers (thanks California) custom boost referenced return style fuel system with surge tank, walbro 255, staged magnafuel 4303, Dual LC-1, Dual Aeroforce Interceptor gages, Nexus fP and boost gages.

  20. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by b727pic
    Good Thread..

    I am not trusting my dual LC-1 setup, and before I get going on the 2bar SD tuning (procharged 408) I want to gain some faith in my setup.

    A little background,
    RH LC-1 is a first gen series, approx 18 months old, but only has about 3000 miles on it.

    LH LC-1 is new, installed with my new 408.

    Both sensors are located in the exact same position on opposing sides meaning the bung was welded in the same proximity to the OEM NB, header collector, and Cat. They were clocked slightly off from the OEM to preclude any airlow disruption.

    While I am not much of a believer in the whole ground to the block vs car body discussion. I decided to go ahead and run all the ground wires directly to the -post on the battery to preclude that from even being a player.


    I followed cyclone Chris lead ( thanks ) and set my HPT scanner table EIO inputs to read raw voltage. the results are a .20 voltage difference between the two LC-1's (car not running)

    LH:4.731 V
    RH:4.937 V

    I removed the sensors from the exhaust, performed a free air calibration, and litterally nothing changed???

    So I presume I have a situation with one sensor being newer than the other?
    also I presume that to ensure accurate WB SD tuning I am going to have to create custom PID's for each sensor?? just not totally clear on how to do that.

    any help is appreciated.
    First off, you're better of doing a fixed voltage check on both sensors and see which one is closer to commanded vs. actual. Just set both AFR output voltages to the same. I usually set it up at 1.0, 2.0 etc. votages and then log raw voltage to get my offset. In the LS1 you can't vary the output of the injectors individually so you really only need the second WB to make sure there in nothing mechanically wrong with the engine. Then just set up a custom PID for the more accurate of the two sensors and start tuning.

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