more maf questions

[redls1bird]

ok, i have read the entire for dummies post, but the info inside is so jumbled that im not sure i understand. here is the bottom line. right now i have no intentions on going full speed density, i want to keep my maf. does it need to be unplugged during scanning? also my car only has a slp lid smooth bellow and k&n which has been on it for over 20k miles. why do i need to reset my ltfts if this info is already there and has a 20k adaption period vs a 1 hour or 100mile drive? there is so much info on how to do things, but almost none on why we are doing what we do. i would rather have a full understanding of what im doing instead of how to manipulate things according to a guide. any insight and help would be greatly appreciated.

[WS6FirebirdTA00]

yes unplug the maf as long as you dont have a vette so it will go into sd without any doubt. u reset the fuel trims to get rid of any old info, yes it leared info but that was from an uncalibrated maf sensor so its going to be false info. fuel trims are no good for tuning imo, after i got my wb i saw why

[S2H]

you can just set MAF fail Frequency to 0 and set the SES to set on first error...
it will do the same thing and you can still see you MAF HZ and use it for a reasonable guess on MAF calibration to get started...
once you get LTFT's all around 0 you can look at dynamic air and plug those #'s into your MAF table.... then do LTFT's ploted to the MAF table

be sure to use plot filtering and tell it [PID.(whatever # is for EQ Ratio)]=1
and it will filter out everything that is PE for you so you can just drive....
oh..and dont disale PE..no reason to ever disable PE