A/C off due to high engine temp

[FastEddy]

Anyone else seen this? I've had 2-3 customers with 2010 Camaro's complain about having this issue after their tune. If anyone can let me know of a fix, it would be much appreciated!

[DSteck]

It happens after a reflash. It goes away.

[FastEddy]

It happens after a reflash. It goes away.

It's been a recurring problem for 1 or 2 customers. One of them says they have to pull the neg terminal on their battery every 20 miles.

[DSteck]

Hmm. That doesn't seem normal. If they have stock cars, I'd try flashing the stock file back in and see what happens.

[Slow Poke]

Ask your customers if they installed a 160F thermostat. This will often cause the P0128 DTC to indicate "engine hot a/c off" even when the motor is cool. It can be programmed out to "disabled" and eliminate future problems.

[mstrfdsstr]

that happend to me the other nite and today on my way home when this happend no water or oil temp gauge. wtf!

[mstrfdsstr]

had the 160 stat for almost a year now never happend before idid just start working with the enhanced os

[MikeOD]

On almost every 2010 Camaro I've tuned, if I don't wait long enough from the first startup, I get that message, AND the car throws every single OBD2 code...including my own 2010 SS.

Try re-flashing the cars, and then before you start them, either let them sit for 10-15 minutes, or unhook the battery for a few seconds...that seems to be the trick.

I've also heard that this issue seems to ONLY affect HPTuners. People I know using EFILive and TunerCat don't have any problem.

[Fire]

ill chime in on this, i have a 2010 camaro, and want to install my 160 stat.
i hate trial and error.
can someone hand this to me on a silver platter?
pretty please with octane on it?
i only have hpt, and i searched already to no avail.
ps. i do not plug into others cars.....

[DSteck]

160 thermostats aren't really worth using.

[edcmat-l1]

160 thermostats aren't really worth using.

I agree completely. They actually run better hotter. No real benefits to a 160 stat no matter what farm animals tell you.

[Shrek]

Even if the cooling system can keep up (most can't) - a 160 stat = increased engine wear, increased emissions, and decreased fuel economy.

[Fire]

well thx for the input. i knew it wouldnt hold at 160, its just with the sto cker, temps go past necessary. any thoughts on a happy medium? whats stock in a zr1?
i run 10 lbs on race days and 6 for street.

[DSteck]

How are you defining what is necessary?

[Shrek]

OK .. starting to compare apples to oranges. You mentioned a 2010 Camaro, then a ZR1, then commented on boost PSI.

If you are running a FI setup (turbo / supercharger) the engine will produce more energy - both HP and heat energy. An upgraded cooling system is often necessary with FI applications.

The ZR1 Corvette uses a different radiator than the LS3 / LS7 Corvettes. GM list price on LS3 / LS7 radiators is just over $600 - while the ZR1 radiator is over $1500.

To your thermostat temperature range question - 195 F is generally the stock heat range. You could move to a 180 F stat - but I would not go any lower than this. A 160 F stat may actually run hotter - as the the coolant may spend too little time in the radiator to effectively transfer heat.

Race teams will often run a restrictor (little more than a washer with varying orifice diameter) in place of a thermostat - to achieve consistent engine temps (without the risk of a thermostat failure).

[Fire]

you right, im clouding the issue.
yes its a camaro with boost.

my old cast iron days i used to run a modified stat to keep up velocity.

when i log the newer car at the strip, i can butt dyno the difference the temps make. the car likes the sitting to cool down before a run opposed to hot lapping, im sure any of you would agree to that. the timing adders or rather negative adders, etc, really affect the car. with alum, i can see that youd not want to be too cold, cause everything is sized and fits better at precribed temps. i assumed it wouldnt hold at 160, but i sure see e nough other people using 160' so i figured i could at least try it for giggles. its hardly an issue to swap out and flash.

my last car was a s/c cobalt i ran 15lbs with n2o. it had a 180, and was happy, but temps creeped upwards of 190, even with all the cooling mods i had done.
the camaro is stock cooling, so my logic was telling me it would hover 180-5 with the 160...
for now, my street tune fan desired % vs ect, is fairly unmolested, but my strip tune, has more fan on sooner, and it helps....or seems to.
im up in canada and my native track is 2300 ft, with air typically about 5000-5500.
so, do u pros conclude i shall not smite the stock stat?

[MikeOD]

as the the coolant may spend too little time in the radiator to effectively transfer heat.

No. Heat transfer doesn't work that way.

[MikeOD]

you right, im clouding the issue.
yes its a camaro with boost.

my old cast iron days i used to run a modified stat to keep up velocity.

when i log the newer car at the strip, i can butt dyno the difference the temps make. the car likes the sitting to cool down before a run opposed to hot lapping, im sure any of you would agree to that. the timing adders or rather negative adders, etc, really affect the car. with alum, i can see that youd not want to be too cold, cause everything is sized and fits better at precribed temps. i assumed it wouldnt hold at 160, but i sure see e nough other people using 160' so i figured i could at least try it for giggles. its hardly an issue to swap out and flash.

my last car was a s/c cobalt i ran 15lbs with n2o. it had a 180, and was happy, but temps creeped upwards of 190, even with all the cooling mods i had done.
the camaro is stock cooling, so my logic was telling me it would hover 180-5 with the 160...
for now, my street tune fan desired % vs ect, is fairly unmolested, but my strip tune, has more fan on sooner, and it helps....or seems to.
im up in canada and my native track is 2300 ft, with air typically about 5000-5500.
so, do u pros conclude i shall not smite the stock stat?

I'm very happy with the stock thermostat in my car. I did lower the fan desired % vs ECT to keep it more constant...the stock programming lets it heat up a lot then when you maintain speed it comes down a lot...I prefer the consistency of letting the fans run a little more and keeping the temp in check with them.

I also set my car to run the fans for up to 240 seconds after I shut it off if the car is hot enough...I did that by lowering the ECT zone and ECT zone hi tables by 25 degrees, and lowering the run time from 300 seconds to 240 in consideration of the battery.

[Shrek]

No. Heat transfer doesn't work that way.

Differing viewpoints are always welcome - often creates a greater knowledge base for all.

However, posting a dissenting view without any rational does little to further the discussion.

Would welcome your take on thermodynamics ...

[IDRIVEAG8GT]

Here in my hot ass environment I run a 180 stat and my temps stay around the low 190's. I have to run that thermo or else everything stays around 215 when you're running the A/C and it's 110 outside, and that bugs me with aluminum components.