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Thread: Bad ECU possible?

  1. #1
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    Question Engine shuts off at/near redline. Bad ecu?

    Hello everyone!

    I have a 00 BMW 328I with a cam only L33 swap and a couple weeks ago I started running into a issue where the car started running rich and would shut off at or near redline. The AFR would go pig rich 10.0-10.3 when picking up speed to go with the flow of traffic but would settle back to stoichiometric at cruising speed/steady throttle, after some digging I found that somehow my MAF table had gotten really screwy looking (car had been running fine for a couple months and even did 2 separate drift events prior) I got my MAF table sorted and AFR's back in line for cruising, part, and WOT but the shutting off at or near redline has persisted.

    When the car shuts off I can cycle the key while it's coasting and it restarts like nothing happened, during the pull(s) it feels like it's making the same power it has and doesn't have any hiccups or misses, I've avoided throwing parts at it other than trying a spare MAF that I had and installing a new set of cam/crank sensors that I had as a just incase at the track, fuel pressure has been checked and is holding steady the entire time 58~psi roughly (C5 filter/reg)

    I'm attaching the most recent tune file and a couple logs that I have recorded with the only changes between them being where I have the redline set trying different things. The logfile titled "free rev" has the redline at 6200 but will show the car revving and holding almost 7000 rpm even though it was hitting the redline audibly and that wasn't anywhere near 7000 rpm, and 6462 is a 3rd gear pull where it shut off without hearing it tag the limiter, also it will die/shut off loaded/driving or free revving so there's that.

    Any thoughts, ideas, banter is welcome

    Thanks!BMW 4.4.23.hptbmw 6462.hplbmw free rev.hpl
    Last edited by B1gst1cks; 04-25-2023 at 02:13 PM.

  2. #2
    Senior Tuner kingtal0n's Avatar
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    Anytime a car starts doing weird shit with the RPM, limiters, 'shutting off', I look at
    1. Crank trigger
    2. Crank trigger wiring / Shielding (needs to be run away from high current wiring and shielded ideally)
    3. Reluctor wheel (crankshaft end play- sometimes a converter or clutch will push crankshaft far enough to dislocate crank trigger)
    4. ECU grounding, did you ground it properly? Maybe current going through ECU fried it
    Its a swap so, grounding is commonly an issue for people who don't routinely swap engines into odd chassis
    https://www.haltech.com/news-events/...dos-and-donts/

    Can't look at files or logs just throwing out some suggestions while you wait

  3. #3
    Advanced Tuner
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    I have never seen a bad P01/P59 personally from the 100's I've worked with. I would be looking at a sensor or wiring issue first. And how is it possible that the maf table was messed up if you didn't write new tunes to it?

  4. #4
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    *Update* (of sorts)

    Last week I had a friend bring over a spare P01 ecu and we flashed my map on it (he said he made some small changes to it but it wasn't in the fuel/ign areas) and took the car for a test rip and it did awesome, I could rev it out to redline in every gear and it was making plenty of power felt and sounded the smoothest it has yet...

    Skip to today and I went and purchased a new (used) ECU and flashed it took it for a rip anddddd bam same exact issue as my original ECU... I had him send the map he had made the changes to and did a compare files look at it and I can see some boxes are green but the values are the same for the vast majority of them but the boxes are indicating that something is different, the ones that were different I changed to match what he had set and tested the car again with the same results.

    The harness is a new one from wiring specialties and has their extra grounding kit in place, I replaced the cam and crank sensors in the midst of this trial and error diag thinking it was something in that direction causing the problem.

  5. #5
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    Reattaching tune and log