I usually set it to a little after my redline just in case.. but it probably does even matter.
Type: Posts; User: HNRClothing
I usually set it to a little after my redline just in case.. but it probably does even matter.
Why wouldnt you dial the trims in driving around town? Get them more accurate so the dyno doesnt take longer? What did you change to help the negative idle?
It uses the MAP(s) instead of the MAF to measure the air.
Nah I get yah man. It is probably something I overlooked, something easy. That happens sometimes. Ill check when I get back to the house.
I changed the OL modifiers to 1.0 because I thought it was that too, Piston protection is set to 7025, COT is off, I am also not getting any KR.
I set the initial AFR command to ~1.26 which is...
I am not at home to post, I actually thought I attached it already. haha I was tired when I posted this. Does have a cat but I turned it off for now, my first thought that it was COT. It was...
In the PE Table I put 1.26, which should be about 11.6, but when he goes WOT it shows 10.9 and lower. Is there any other table that would affect PE from commanding what I actually put in my tune.
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You have your wideband hooked to HPT? Did you MAF/VE tune after you did the injector tune change?
Sorry I dont have my laptop to look.
http://www.hptuners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=36029
When timing Ecotec cams:
Cylinder 1 and 4 should both be at TDC when the notch in the hex lines up with the line on the sensor housing. However, you need to make sure cylinder 1 has just completed...
I didnt think the P0420 diabled would throw a code. A LSJ I have tuned, along with mine, has gone through emissions with no problems.
PM sent.
Havent seen your tune yet but misfire could be from the larger injectors. Also I have heard that lightened flywheels can cause misfire.
If you have KR at WOT reduce timing in those cells.
Look in the tune repository at the HPT home page. Put the vehicle in and find a stock tune and use that.
When cranking pull up the scanner, it shouldnt be reading RPM if the sensor is bad.
he should be able to do it if the scanner AFR reads E85 stoich and so does his controller. That will only work though if the stoich can be changed through HPT to ~9.8. If it cant then you should do...
ok go into the LC-1 programming and see what the 0v and 5v is for the E85 stoich. Then input those in a custom eio in the table display and it should read correcly...
So is the scanner showing 9.8:1? And the scanner is not?
If so use the EIO custom AFR table, It looks almost like what is in the xcel above. Just go into LC-1 and see what the LC-1 reads for 0v...
Seems that way but isnt all the other TB's smaller than the LSJ? (other than the LS4 and such) So in theory the scaler should decrease from stock LSJ?
The thing is I think its a band-aid....
I literally have no idea what/why the scaler helps. I dont know if it is a calc or something that it uses and helps with the airflow at idle.
If you dont find anything that helps other than the...
I thought he already tried them?
Cylinder 1 and 4 should both be at TDC when the notch in the hex lines up with the line on the sensor housing. You need to make sure cylinder 1 has just completed the exhaust stroke and cylinder 4...
Basically you need to read and learn a little and get an understand before you tune. Just randomly tuning and not knowing what you are doing is how you mess something up and cost more and more money....
I am still saying there is a possibility that you jumped a tooth on the timing chain.
OP did you try to up the scaler to 4000 and see what it does? You will then need to play with the coastdown so the idle doesnt fall on its face in coastdown but it "should" help with the negative.