Need Passlock Help 97 Grand AM I4

I posted this on another thread but decided it was worth trying to start my own thread:

I need help with this I have a 97 grand am with a 2.4 quad four and it will start and die due to the Passlock. right now the car is a few days from the junk yard because we just aren't going to pay a lot to fix the car.

Is there anyway anyone knows how to disable passlock via the PCM, even if it is building a circuit to make the square wave? What is the waveform needed for my car being a 97.

I have tried the resistor trick with no success, the problem is the cluster I think its just not outputting the waveform I think. I wish I had an oscilliscope so I could see what it's doing.......I just don't want to get into the parts swapping game. The car is Taupe, no one is going to steal it, I just want passlock disabled at the PCM.

any help would be apprecaited.....otherwise it is a perfectly good car with 100k on it, I would hate to throw it away......

Ken

You placed a resistor in line with the "yellow" wire coming from the BCM?

1. The manual says to isolate the yellow data wire through the radio compartment, but I did not have to do that. Pop the top off the steering-wheel housing (it snaps on) and remove the tilt-steering lever (unscrews -- mine had some locktite on it, so be careful).

2. Now remove the bottom portion of the housing (three screws underneath).

3. BE CAREFUL! There are two yellow wires underneath -- one to the air bag, one to the ignition. Obviously, you want the one to the ignition. It is the wire "most" underneath (obvious what that means when you see it) and closest to the driver when he or she is behind the wheel.

4. START THE CAR! START THE CAR! START THE CAR! This is an essential step! If the car won't start (like mine), jiggle the wire as you turn the ignition (many of these PassLock problems are old, corroded wire connections, not the Hall sensor).

5. Clip the yellow data wire, leaving at least some wire to work with on both sections. Once the wire is cut, you may (but don't have to) turn off the car.

6. From Radio Shack, obtain SPST mini-toggle switch # 275-612 (total cost including tax: $3.17).

7. Remove switch from packaging; make sure it is in the "off" (contacts open) position (check it with a meter).

8. Strip a short section of insulation from each end of the cut data wire, slip some shrink wrap over the wires, and splice in the switch.

9. Maneuver the shrink wrap over the soldered terminals and heat to form a completely insulated splice.

10. The toggle can be left inside the housing or mounted on the underside of the lower housing section (drill a 1/4-inch hole carefully so the plastic does not melt around the drill bit).

11. Reinstall lower housing (three screws) and tilt lever (you may want to use some locktite, but I didn't). If you opted for outside mounting, screw on the locknut for the switch.

12. Snap top half of housing in place.

13. If you turned the car off, turn it on to test. It should start right up.

Light will stay on, but car will run

Quote:

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Originally Posted by MMGT1

1. The manual says to isolate the yellow data wire through the radio compartment, but I did not have to do that. Pop the top off the steering-wheel housing (it snaps on) and remove the tilt-steering lever (unscrews -- mine had some locktite on it, so be careful).

2. Now remove the bottom portion of the housing (three screws underneath).

3. BE CAREFUL! There are two yellow wires underneath -- one to the air bag, one to the ignition. Obviously, you want the one to the ignition. It is the wire "most" underneath (obvious what that means when you see it) and closest to the driver when he or she is behind the wheel.

4. START THE CAR! START THE CAR! START THE CAR! This is an essential step! If the car won't start (like mine), jiggle the wire as you turn the ignition (many of these PassLock problems are old, corroded wire connections, not the Hall sensor).

5. Clip the yellow data wire, leaving at least some wire to work with on both sections. Once the wire is cut, you may (but don't have to) turn off the car.

6. From Radio Shack, obtain SPST mini-toggle switch # 275-612 (total cost including tax: $3.17).

7. Remove switch from packaging; make sure it is in the "off" (contacts open) position (check it with a meter).

8. Strip a short section of insulation from each end of the cut data wire, slip some shrink wrap over the wires, and splice in the switch.

9. Maneuver the shrink wrap over the soldered terminals and heat to form a completely insulated splice.

10. The toggle can be left inside the housing or mounted on the underside of the lower housing section (drill a 1/4-inch hole carefully so the plastic does not melt around the drill bit).

11. Reinstall lower housing (three screws) and tilt lever (you may want to use some locktite, but I didn't). If you opted for outside mounting, screw on the locknut for the switch.

12. Snap top half of housing in place.

13. If you turned the car off, turn it on to test. It should start right up.

Light will stay on, but car will run

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Thanks but This only works if the car is running. The car is already in long term theft mode which means this will not work.

I want to bypass the theft system entirely. The resistor trick or the switch only works if the problem is with the ignition hall effect sensor, the instrument cluster creates and sends the signal to the pcm to allow the injectors to start. I think my cluster is screwed up. Either way I Want to know how to bypass passlock all together and take the ignition, cluster out of the look and just give the right signal to the PCM, or rewrite the pcm to disable it from shutting off the injectors.

:banghead: Someone please help

Attachment 26823

just find someone with a tech 2,, on these older vehicles you can go into the cluster and perform the theft re-learn,,, just un plug the sensor in the ignition,, then go to the cluster and do the theft re-learn and the cluster will no longer look for the key signal

i have done this on many 4cyl race cars for guys,, as long as the cluster is good you will be fine

And if the cluster is bad like mine.........???

So I did fix this on my own, pulled the gauge cluster and stuck it next to a room heater blowing hot air on it for 30 min, the quickly threw it back into the car after having left the battery unpluged for 35 minutes to clear out the computer. I got the car to start and running so there is a open in part of the passlock circuit in the cluster, and the heat closed the circuit for a few seconds allowing the code to get sent to the PCM. About 1 minute into running the theft light came on again. I cut the yellow passlock wire coming from the ignition to cause it to default to the fail safe mode. So the car is back for now. Just can't ever lose power to the PCM.

We need a long term solution for this issue, passlock is causing problems for all late model cars and locking the owners out. I encourage HPTUNERS to get some flags going to for passlock to disable it in the VCM. This would be a huge advantage for owners and shops doing custom swaps.

Ken

You need to set P1629 to "No error reported".

Quote:

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Originally Posted by bullygoat

You need to set P1629 to "No error reported".

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This will stop passlock from working? I have a aftermarket remote start on my 97 GA, and the passlock got in a fight with it and passlock won. I cant use the remote start with out passlock locking the car off.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by crazyeyez

I have a aftermarket remote start on my 97 GA,....

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Never heard of those causing any problems before. Hmm, well there's a first time for everything.:rolleyes:

Ya I have heard of the resistor method, however if you have hp tuners there should be no need for this??? Set to no errors reported....

Beware, I turned off Passkey with HPT on one of those and lost communication with the I.P., now 1/2 of the cluster doesn't work but the car runs, and I'm out $100 I could have put towards a new instrument cluster.

I have 02 malibu that from time to time won't start, the injectors don't fire, the only way i can start it is by spraying gas in the throttle body, after doing that 5 or 10 times it will run after a lot of missing and rough running, i keep getting code 1626 fuel theft enable. will making 1626 and or 1629 no reporting cure that problen. i don't want to turm them off if its going to mess something up, can someone give me a answer, i,ve had this problem about a year, had it towed to the dealer a couple times, by the time they look at get to look at it, the car starts.