Too bad I've already come up with another question for you (above) :DQuote:
Originally Posted by soundengineer
Edit - DOH...nevermind.
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Too bad I've already come up with another question for you (above) :DQuote:
Originally Posted by soundengineer
Edit - DOH...nevermind.
we should go to the lounge and have a fast response thread..see how many people we can get into it and see how far it can go..Quote:
Originally Posted by MeentSS02
not today though..I got a bunch of stuff to do..LOL
and I was busy answering your other post;)http://www.audiohelix.com/emote/boobies.gif
Yep...saw that one too :)
It makes sense that car running vs. car off wouldn't have an impact...I guess a voltage offset is a voltage offset. I'll go back and look at it tonight to verify though.
The WBC does NOT suport a fixed voltage reporting...
Can I configure one of my EIO "outputs" to output the raw voltage being read on one of the EIO "inputs"??? OR is the output a simple trigger report for an on, off or equal to condition???
I was thinking of taking the above (if possible) and running it back into my WBC box (it has two 0-5v inputs available). Then Log the results with my WBC software and compare the results of what the WBC is sending "out" the output to what it is receiving in (from my EIO box) the input...
The results would be easier to compare, considering the log would show both input and output for each specific time stamp. Maybe???
Hmmmmmmmmm...never messed with EIO outputs before. Not sure on this one...
you can log raw voltage with the EIO...
again...let it hang in the air..hit a multimeter in the WB leads...
and check EIO voltage...
do teh math after you are done checking it
also....
if your wideband says that it shoudl be sending 3 volts..then you need to see 3 volts..if you see anything else..then you have an offset...
if your free air calibration is supposed to = 5 volts..then you better see 5 volts...if you see 4.85...its not 5 volts and you should adjust your equation in the scanner accordingly....
you always go by what your WB config software says it should be.
if you cant access to see what it should be..then you should contact your wideband manufacturer to find out for sure about it
Quote:
Originally Posted by soundengineer
Sorry Scott... I moved this post to this thread, where is belongs...:doh:
I agree, I need to know if on a DynoJet WBC 4.63 equals an AFR of 18 and higher. It has to, right??? There were no exhaust fumes in my garage; as a matter of fact there was a cold breeze. I could speculate that if 4.63v equals 18 then 5v less (-0.37 ???:crazy: ) would equal an AFR of 10??? Good lord I reaching for straws...
:eek: :eek: :eek:
that is the coprrect way of thinking...
if 5v was supposed to be 18 afr...
then you have an offset of -0.37...which equals -0.23125 afr
so volts/0.625+10.23125 would be your 10-18 afr
which would explain why some guys say their dynojet is .2-.3 different than their in bung o2 on a car without cats...
you could try to pig rich a car to get the afr down on the 9's to see what your voltage is down there....
then make a new equation to represent your real 10-18 afr
but thats more reaching for straws....
you shoudl contact dynojet and find out for certain..adn like I said..maybe they have some configuration software that you just dont know about
I think I just told you guys backwayrds...LOL
sorry about that.everybody double check your math...
should be volt offset/volt for equation...
meanng the above should be -0.37/.625 an afr offset of -0.592!!!!
:bigshock: That changes things... I had better go look at my spreadsheet...Quote:
Originally Posted by soundengineer
:cheers:
I just got off the phone with DJ and was told with the sensor hanging out in the air it should read 5.0v. Sooooo I am reading a steady 4.63v, also, they have no calibration software for it :rolleyes:
This leaves me know with two problems....
1. My WBC is reporting 4.63v for 18 AFR (or leaner)... should be 5.0v
2. My EIO is reporting .050v diffferent from what it is being told by the WBC...
---WBC reads 4.63v and EIO reports 4.58v
:crazy: :crazy: :crazy:
in your case you need to correct for what it should be outputting...Quote:
Originally Posted by SideStep
so 5v - 4.58v = 0.42v = .672AFR !!!!
volts/.625 + 10.672
:crazy:
and yeah....I had a brain fart....after doing all teh computing I was doing on a mpg pid..I was a little fried for math for a few days..LOLQuote:
Originally Posted by SideStep
here is what i did that helped, dont knwo if its posted anywhere else but....
i commanded a certain voltage while in warm up. in hp tuners i logged the afr and had an average going. for example, my lc1 was set to go to 2.45 volts or 14.7:1 on warm up, the average in hp tuners was 14.72:1, i did the same for 0.05 volts and 5 volts. i just made sure the average matched up with what it was to command. i did it this was as well to fix my gauge (autometer) to report correctly and i just adjusted on the curve for the right offset. actually i am using default lc-1 settings on output 2 and its matching up great with my ground scheme
Hmm so many options that are kinda confusing...
I set up HPT to read Raw Voltage and this is what I came up with
0V = .005 - .005 OFFSET
.5V = .488 - .012 OFFSET
1V = .986 - .014 OFFSET
1.5V = 1.478 - .021 OFFSET
2V= 1.979 - .021 OFFSET
2.5V = 2.466 - .034 OFFSET
3V = 2.690 - .031 OFFSET
3.5V = 3.462 - .036 OFFSET
4V = 3.940 - .060 OFFSET
4.5V = 4.370 - .130 OFFSET
5V = 4.692 - .306 OFFSET
I used an average offset of .030 and ended up with
VOLTS / .5 + 10.06 in HPTuners custom PID
Is this correct or should I go a different route?
For some reason the offsets past 4V double up. I decided to use a voltage range of 0-4 Volts
0 Volts = 10 AFR
4 Volts = 18 AFR
Is this correct?? what would be the best way to set this up?
this seems to be such good info for me when I actually get HPT. I have a autometer wide band. it gives a output that ranges from 0 to 4 volts for 10 to 20 af. I should be able to get the gauge to work then I am hoping with a little tinkering. any confirmation that it will be alright?
Yes I have one and use the formula volts/.6666+11.7
Good Thread..
I am not trusting my dual LC-1 setup, and before I get going on the 2bar SD tuning (procharged 408) I want to gain some faith in my setup.
A little background,
RH LC-1 is a first gen series, approx 18 months old, but only has about 3000 miles on it.
LH LC-1 is new, installed with my new 408.
Both sensors are located in the exact same position on opposing sides meaning the bung was welded in the same proximity to the OEM NB, header collector, and Cat. They were clocked slightly off from the OEM to preclude any airflow disruption.
Both LC-1's are calibrated to : 10:00 -17.98 w 1/6th sampling rate
While I am not much of a believer in the whole ground to the block vs car body discussion. I decided to go ahead and run all the ground wires directly to the -post on the battery to preclude that from even being a player.
I followed cyclone Chris lead ( thanks ) and set my HPT scanner table EIO inputs to read raw voltage. the results are a .20 voltage difference between the two LC-1's (car not running)
LH:4.731 V
RH:4.937 V
I removed the sensors from the exhaust, performed a free air calibration, and litterally nothing changed???
So I presume I have a situation with one sensor being newer than the other?
also I presume that to ensure accurate WB SD tuning I am going to have to create custom PID's for each sensor?? just not totally clear on how to do that.
any help is appreciated.
First off, you're better of doing a fixed voltage check on both sensors and see which one is closer to commanded vs. actual. Just set both AFR output voltages to the same. I usually set it up at 1.0, 2.0 etc. votages and then log raw voltage to get my offset. In the LS1 you can't vary the output of the injectors individually so you really only need the second WB to make sure there in nothing mechanically wrong with the engine. Then just set up a custom PID for the more accurate of the two sensors and start tuning.Quote:
Originally Posted by b727pic
Tim