haven't used my tuner in 5 + years , my daughter just gave me back a regal GS I gave her years ago that I already had credits open for so looking to dabble a bit with it again.
Loaded version 3.4 and looking for anything I can get started with till I get my bearings back on scanning/tuning , I will be looking for some setup tutorials but not having to start from scratch would be a plus :chug: already checked the config repositiory and it appears quite empty lol.
made some headway today , watched several videos in the getting started links , most looked familiar like when I tuned with the old suite but don't seem to apply to the new one. I was able to get some type of default setting loaded to begin getting the scanner to populate with something , I just tried to find it again so I could say what I did in this post but cant find it.
A couple of the things I need to get working critical to L67 is KR & boost , under the old way I remember adding pid's to be polled but I am not figuring out how to do that with this update. I am a moderator over on regalgs.org and asked around over there but everyone that came in said to go back to the old version as that is what they had done but I am sure there are positives to the new scanner so I will continue trying to figure this out... does anybody know where this is any video or tutorial that applies to version 3.4 scanner setup ? all I see is links to more specialized stuff I will need in the future , how to set up for maf tuning , adding a wideband ,etc... I am looking for how to set up the most basic features to start with adding pid's to scanner ( do they call them channels now ??? ) found knock retard in a drop down but couldn't figure out how to add it to the table , I don't recall ever having to add KR to get it functional on old scanner. I recall to get boost to display accurate there was some type of filter string on MAP sensor data that had to be setup so I will do a search for that then will likely move on to setting up histograms and filters or at least that is what I recall them being called in the past to filter out the results you don't want to apply to histograms.
Any referrals to proper places to learn these procedures will be greatly appreciated !
injector duty cycle as well wasn't populating so any help with getting that to show up in scans would be great as well.
Just right click on an empty space in the channels list or click add channel to add something. So find knock retard and just double click it, then it will be added to the table. Same with injector information.
You can either read boost via the MAP KPA or I think they have a built in math parameter that you can use to make it read boost. You need the map and baro channels working to use it I think. I've just stuck with MAP kpa, it's easy enough to remember what kpa equals a certain boost level.
Thank you very much for your reply. What your suggesting ( right click on empty space) sounds just like what I recall doing with the old scanner to add to the chart display , didn't seem to be working on this 3.4 but I will try again. At this point I am working under the premise that my lack of knowledge on the new scanner is the issue not some type of glitch I should be contacting support about.Quote:
Originally Posted by 5FDP
The thread in the stickys for getting started/learning how to use 3.4 scanner is locked and none of the links are for scanner setup "101" all more advanced operations and all the threads where I find reference to scanner 3.4 seem to suggest going back to 2.24. There has to be a tutorial around here somewhere on the do's and dont's of 3.4 , a lot of searching turning up a lot of nothing so far. Did find a thread mentioning some platforms don't offer pid's for KR and IDC ?? I recall those being easy to add to chart display on old scanner , am I trying to add items no longer supported on 3800's ?? cant imagine that is the case but you never know it is an old platform....
I did figure out how to move gauges around , drag scan to moments/points I want to analyze closer it was different than the old way but it could be figured out so making progress there.
http://www.hptuners.com/forum/showth...tarted-Threads
Here is a thread on some of the vcm scanner stuff. There is no 3.4 scanner 101 type thread around that I know of, it's really not that different than 2.24. The stuff still reads the same way but the layout has just changed and some of the wording. New features too.
The 3800 is still fully supported, you can make just about anything read out in the scanner so long as that computer can support it. Knock retard and injector duty cycle will read. You need to have injector pulse width for both banks in the scanner as IDC is a math of those.
Try these and see if they help.
jaydubb71 I believe I just figured out how to utilize all you provided , I am excited to see on the drive home tonight , thank you very much !
I believe I also just learned more of the lay of the land for v.3.4 just figuring out how to load and save the files you linked too , bonus !!!
You're welcome, Murphinator. Any mods?
not much on this particular car , when I bought it 10 years ago it was my wife's car and identical colors to my 02 gs I had at the time , that car was modded , I got that car as quick as 13.1 @109 and had a gtp I bought modded then sprayed the crap out of down to 12.2 @117.Quote:
Originally Posted by jaydubb71
I did take this 98 to the track once when it was my wife's and with just a cone filter , A104's and a drilled 180 stat it ran 14.4 @96 for me after that I had put an MPS with a 3.6 pulley on it and some very basic tuning but never got it back to the track , it currently has a 3.8 pulley on the mps I put on it when my daughter started driving it , if scans look good for kr I will swap it for the 3.6 again , I also have a 3.4 left from one of my other cars but it will need some exhaust mods for that , I have a set of gtp duals with res delete I pulled off a car I parted out recently that will end up on it and I may spray it if I get the time to take it to the track this year ( I have 2 kits).
Once LS1 f body's got cheap I have owned 4 of those and kind of got away from w bodies other than daily drivers I own 3 of those currently one of which is bone stock that I may license and do lid/catback on and tune it , I tuned a friends lid catback car when I was tuning a bit in the past and it made decent gains, the other 2 f bodies I have now have most popular bolt ons and were both tuned by good tuners (Slowhawk and MikeOD on here) so I haven't touched them both stock internals cars 11.9@111 & 12.1 @112 so between them running pretty strong and my commute no longer within 15 minutes of the track on the drive home I kinda lost interest.
This regal is still very solid it came from NC when I bought it in 07 but after 5 years in my daughters hands then 6 months her husband ran it this car was pretty rough , interior was a dumpster fire , paint faded , brakes to the metal ( thank god for that gtp parts car) , more lights on the dash than you would think possible, dings etc... I have it looking presentable again after removing the seats and douching the carpets , magic eraser to everything , wet sand & buff , etc... I gave it to her for free while she was in college she thought she used it up, bought a new car then gave it back to me , she hasn't seen it yet but when she does it will be a teaching moment about care and upkeep lol. Hopefully by the time I get my f bodies back on the road in the spring it will be well sorted and I will bring it out to a street night or 2 , the car has unfinished business there ha ha ! I am into the car for a grand total of $167 at this point and its getting me to work and back , duals , pulley , tune , spray all will cost me nothing , got word in with a buddy of mine that manages a junkyard to keep his eyes peeled for headers on w bodies hoping to add a set of those to the freebies those will be the key to being able to use the 3.4 and spray it. Hoping to get it in the 12's with little or no money spent.
I predict some knock even stock unless you have some magic premium fuel there.
I had knock from the factory, up to 6-7 degrees like most do. I added headers to remove it all, then dropped to a 3.6 pulley for a little added boost. Still ran around 13-14 degrees of timing at wide open throttle.
The biggest weakness is the glass transmission, push it too far on stock parts and lots of miles and they don't handle it very well. 3-1 downshifts and the 1-2 upshift are pretty brutal on parts.
TRUTH! My GTP is hanging in there. TC lockup started that hunting crap recently so I just disabled it. I keep an eye on the trans temps though. She runs like a scalded dog w/ 223000 miles on the clock. Im the original owner.Quote:
Originally Posted by 5FDP
I expected knock as well 5fdp -fought that battle for years on my 02 GS with tuning , race fuel or zylene at the track , larger pulleys in the winter ,etc... but getting zero knock on this car butt thanks to jaydubb and his config I also see only 3.5 pounds of boost (hence zero knock) so I guess I have a boost control solenoid or bypass valve issue , I think I have at least one of each kicking around in parts bins , I used to part out a lot of regal gs's and gtp's 5 to 10 years ago. This would also explain not even hitting 70 on IDC ( again thanks jaydubb)
As for tranny's being glass I am well aware of that reputation but have had the opposite experience , my 02 gs made literally hundreds of passes in the 13's on dr's with cable mod and if it was dry tar on the streets it always saw plenty of mash it at 20 and put it up in a ball right up through 2nd gear , I owned that car from 90k till 236 k then sold it to a friend that is on here (PWNED) he cammed it and intercooled it got the car in the 12's and it finally broke at 249k. I never spin unless pointed straight , try not to spin on wet or snowy roads , only did enough burnout to see smoke and never 60 footed below 1.9's at the track and always pulled the abs/trac control fuse at the track. Hooking hard will break them at the track drive chain or input shaft, it was always the guys going on regular race days on sticky tires that seemed to break so I stick to street nights where the prep isn't great. The only time I ever hooked a car with a 4t65e was my gtp and that had a dynotech trans when I got it so I did bigger burnouts with that car.
I did notice some discrepancies in my scan log , In my reading on here trying to get info on v3.4 I have seen posts of logs showing different data than the eyeballs had seen while scanning and everytime I looked at my screen IAT's were in the upper 30's and ect's in the 170's but my logs showed up to 57* no way and coolant up to 210 again I don't think so...no scan data showed iats lower than the 50's when I saw nothing but 30's ?
Youre welcome.
The IAT and ECT logs... which one showed 30* IAT? HPT or...?
looking at the computer screen briefly while driving the scanner was displaying nothing but upper 30's iats and 170-mid 180's on ect. Temps were in the 30's and I was driving back roads with no traffic so iats should be close to ambient and were showing close to ambient but when I got home and opened up the scan and reviewed it all the iat data showed 50's I couldn't find any sign of the 30's I had seen with my own eyes during the scan as it was happening real time. Same with the ect's driving steady on a day in the 30's with a drilled 180 stat in place you would expect to see temps stay pretty close to 180* which is what I saw while I was logging but upon review at home saw temps up to 210.Quote:
Originally Posted by jaydubb71
I still have 3 aero force gauges including a dual setup from previous part outs in my stuff so I am going to get one of those wired in and see what it shows for data for a couple days for comparison.
unplugged boost control solenoid and blocked off vac line to it at the T on the FPR now it has boost again 9.5 psi max and bonus its not a KR whore max of 1* which is especially surprising being a 98 which has the exhaust tubing entering the muffler at a 90* angle from the side of the muffler. The IDC looks normal now that it is seeing proper boost saw max of 87% duty cycle. Time to swap the 3.8 for the 3.6 and see what it does....
Exhaust tubing past the cat means nothing. The y-pipe is zero restriction untill you are well over 300hp to the tire.
Duty cycle seems high, must still be running in the 10's for commanded AFR like the factory does.
yes I haven't touched the tune yet still getting used to the scanner again after years away and fixing mechanical stuff ,when I had done tuning on this car about 8 years ago it was basically a stock car and it was just a quickie remove speed limiter , up shift rpm's a whisker , allow downshifts at higher speeds , torque management removal etc... , will need to dig out my NTK to see where it is really at but I can see that commanded is 10.9 at wot on my scans the last couple days.Quote:
Originally Posted by 5FDP
Without headers , cam ,rockers or intercooler on small pulleys I think a 3800SC needs the extra fuel ,admittedly it is a band aid to not add more supporting mods. On my previous gs best et's were with afr's in the high 10's I just couldn't get the same timing into it without knock in the low 11's , after PWNED bought it from me he went back through the tune and had afr's around 11.5 and just couldn't get timing into it and I told him to richen it into the high 10's at high rpm's which he did and then was able to get the timing back into it and run similar et's to what I had been able to get out of it. Full weight car , no headers just plog/3"dp/3" Hogan catback , 3.4 pulley ,ported tb ,85mm maf ( yes it was maf tuned) fwi and ran consistent 13.5's @103/104 this was not with spray.
The problem is not having a dyno, it could have made the same power with less fuel and less timing as it did with more fuel and more timing. It's hard to know for sure though.
I ran 11.0 or close to that on 93 octane with my setup, never tracked it or even cared too because it's still a slow car lol.
Quote:
Originally Posted by jaydubb71
are there any tutorials on how to load these? Sorry if it's a stupid question. I'm completely new to tuning.