Did you ensure the compressor was empty before you added in more oil?
Did you ensure the compressor was empty before you added in more oil?
'08-'09 had a conventional fan clutch.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1793422
50 bux.
If you do go electric, I can't tell you how nice the SPAL brushless fans are. C7 Corvette 14", 600W, or Camaro/CTS 19" 800W. Either requires grafting onto a fan shroud that fits the TB radiator, but man, they are awesome. Dead simple wiring, no relays, no adding wires to the ECM connectors... just constant hot, constant ground, and the existing control wire to the new fan.
The compressor had 3 oz of oil in it, I added 5oz.Originally Posted by gtstorey
The clutch you posted is not EV?
There is a guy who makes a dual efan kit with shroud using both spal 12” and 14” fans specifically for the tbss. It’s well priced. I’ve been leaning towards that and this might make my decision… however I do believe I may have another issue. I’m thinking the system may be overcharged.
Last edited by Markrose76; 1 Week Ago at 06:32 PM.
Yessir, non-EV conventional fan clutch as used on 2008 & 2009 TBSS. Direct swap with the EV clutch, just disable the fan controls DTCs in the tune.
The fans I mention are brushless, variable speed. And fking awesome.
15-81914 C7 600w
15-81913 C7 500w
15-81927 CTS/Camaro
SPAL brushed fans are nice enough I guess, but they're still on/off relay controlled.
C7 600W fan adapted to Trailblazer fan shroud:
20190518_014423s.jpg
Brushless.png
We make a bunch of different electric fan kits for TBSS.
Tuner at PCMofnc.com
Email tuning!!!, Mail order, Dyno tuning, Performance Parts, Electric Fan Kits, 4l80e swap harnesses, 6l80 -> 4l80e conversion harnesses, Installs
As others have mentioned it needs a proper diagnostic done.
1. Does it have air in the system? Properly evacuated?
2. Does it move air at an idle? Sheet of paper stick to the condenser showing air flow
3. Unrestricted? Plastic bags on the condenser.
4. Is the suction side line cold with condensation? What is your humidity? Could be a blend door not shut.
5. Do all the doors including recirc function normally?
6. Pressures based on atmospheric (humidity and temp). High low side could be compressor or air in system. High high side could be air in the system or no airflow across condenser. Low high side could be low charge or bad compressor.
7. Run a non contact temp gun or your hand on all parts of the condenser. feeling for cool spots. Compressor failures lead to junk in the condenser/plugged rows.
1. Does it have air in the system? Properly evacuated? System was evacuated and pressure tested when it was charged after compressor replacement.
2. Does it move air at an idle? Sheet of paper stick to the condenser showing air flow. I will try this
3. Unrestricted? Plastic bags on the condenser. Condenser is not restricted externally
4. Is the suction side line cold with condensation? What is your humidity? Could be a blend door not shut. Suction line is ice cold with condensation, humidity is 51%, blend doors seem to be working as they should.
5. Do all the doors including recirc function normally? All doors seem to be working as they should
6. Pressures based on atmospheric (humidity and temp). High low side could be compressor or air in system. High high side could be air in the system or no airflow across condenser. Low high side could be low charge or bad compressor.
I checked pressures last night. It was 75f ambient temp. Low side was 40psi high side was 170psi. The air was blowing cold (47f) at this time. The issue only seems to happen when its really hot out.
7. Run a non contact temp gun or your hand on all parts of the condenser. feeling for cool spots. Compressor failures lead to junk in the condenser/plugged rows. I will use an infrared thermometer to check for cold spots.
I have been using these very same performance test for well over 20 years. That's how old yet still up to date they are. A/C is the simplest thing we can deal with. Heat pumps.
When it goes to shit at hot idle or whatever, if it's because of low condenser airflow the high side pressure will be too high. If it's because of low refrigerant charge, high side pressure will be too low.
You can command the fan % higher in the scanner, you know. It's slow to respond but it does work (when the fan clutch isn't broken). This should be easy to test. Get it to where it's not cooling like you think it should, then crank up the fan %. If the duct temps go down to normal with more airflow but the same engine/compressor speed and same ambient, there you go. I'd just put a regular non-EV thermo-clutch on it if this is the only problem you're looking to solve and more idle airflow makes it work right.
You could also raise the Fan Desired % vs A/C in the tune, but... those EV clutches are not that great even when they work. GM stopped using them because the other type just worked better and had fewer warranty claims.
I remember the numerous software updates with the EV fans. To much engagement and a roar, then after the "fix" they would overheat, then back to roar under certain conditions. I think they got it kinda worked out. Happy medium but you are right there were many other ways they should have gone.
Thank you for all the info. I will try all your suggestions. A few days ago I evacuated the system again and replaced the orifice with a "better" one. It does seem to be cooling a little better. I believe the previous tube was fitting a little loose and not restricting as it should have.
Disregard. I found the settings
Can you assist with commanding the higher fan % in the scanner?
Which channel do I add and how do I adjust the %? I added the fan desired channel but I am not seeing how to increase the %.
Last edited by Markrose76; 1 Week Ago at 01:37 PM.
'Vehicle Controls & Special Functions' button, up on the toolbar.
Ok, I am still chasing down the issue. Last week I connected my buddies scanner to the truck. We did a system/function check on all the actuator doors to make sure they were working and all are moving and sealing. I evacuated the system, changed the orifice tube, pulled vacuum, recharged the system. Found no leaks. Checked high and low pressure both appear to be in range. At 85F the low side was 40-45 and the high side was 200-225. I am still not getting continuous cold air. I does not get HOT but it fluctuates 10 degrees or so and still takes quite sometime to cool off. I tried commanding the fan to higher % but I didn't notice a real difference.
Oh, if you get the scanner controls right and the fan is working, you will know it for sure because it will sound like... well, like a big 19" mechanical fan spinning at ludicrous speed.
I don't think this works. Prehaps they fixed it.
more than a decade ago I was trying to make a interface box that took that signal and convert into on/off for electric fans as an option. I could never get the Bidi controls to actually change the fan lockup.
The signal going to that fan is weird.. from memory. It pulses often when it wants the fan to lock up more, pulses slow down/just about stop as it reaches desired speed.. pulses stop when it wants the fan to loosen up. It's not like you would think.. 50% dc = 50% fan or anything..
Tuner at PCMofnc.com
Email tuning!!!, Mail order, Dyno tuning, Performance Parts, Electric Fan Kits, 4l80e swap harnesses, 6l80 -> 4l80e conversion harnesses, Installs
I 'scoped it back when I still had the stock fan clutch, using the stock 2 Hz settings. The TB/Envoy OS will not output a valid PWM signal at 100 or 125 Hz using the 'PWM EV' setting, but will when using 'PWM Electric'.
Manual override for the stock clutch worked fine on mine. Well, as long as the 2-minute time delay between you poking the buttons and something happening is 'fine'. It did work though. There is a P.I. bulletin about some Tech2 software versions that would fail to control the fan clutch - attached above.
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