-
Tuner in Training
MAF and VE tuning
Im working on tuning my MAF and VE tables covered in the MAF & VE GUIDE book from the tuning school. If im street tuning do i need to follow the steps, by leaving the vehicle in second gear and do the drive cycle the have in the book, or can i just do my normal daily driving and get better results that way? in yalls opinion what is the best way to street tune? Thanks for any advice or help in advanced. Just trying to learn the best way to street tune since i cant afford a loaded dyno or if its even worth investing in one. Ive heard you can get really good results off street tuning.
-
That confirms my suspicions about the tooning school. If it was worth the money there would be no need for these kind of questions.
Anyway, first make sure you're setup correctly in the tune for MAF, VE, or maybe even Cringer's DynAir method for simultaneously tuning the airflow models.
As far as driving do a 10-15 minute run. You can watch the cell hits live in scanner. Get as many as possible, make adjustments, and repeat until fuel trims are within 3%.
Post a tune and log if you want more detailed help.
-
Tuner in Training
The tuning school has a lot of information. This is more than likely a "me" situation... I was curious if I had to stay in second gear the whole time doing the detailed drive cycle they have in the printed course or if anyone has had better experience doing it differently. I don't fully understand why i would stay in second gear the whole-time vs a normal day to day drive cycle trying to get my LTFT within 3%. Maybe I'm overthinking.
-
No you don't have to stay in 2nd. Normal day to day, but have to give a little more pedal to get higher MAP's. LTFT, STFT, LTFT+STFT.
-
Tuner in Training
Hey man i greatly appreciate you taking the time to help answer my question. So i can do a normal drive cycle just keep my rpms below 4000 since i have PE turned off? Correct?
-
Yes normal drive cycle. You don't have to keep rpm's below 4k unless the fuel trims are off by 10%. Set PE enables to 85 kPa and 85% TPS. The rest will take car of itself. You're welcome to post a tune and log if you'd like it double checked. I or someone will go over it with you. Feel free to ask any questions.
-
Tuner in Training
Okay awesome heres my tune file 2000 silverado 5.3 all stock new motor has 3k miles. 285/75R16 3:73 gears z71 just trying ,make it run better and pull a trailer better. And again im very grateful and appreciative for the help.
Last edited by mikefain215; 11-21-2023 at 12:42 PM.
-
Tuner in Training
Last edited by mikefain215; 11-21-2023 at 12:40 PM.
-
Tuner
One other thing that I like to do.. If you are going to be doing "regular" street driving while you collect your data, I find that the higher you set your cell count hits in the graph, the more accurate the information will be. Yes, it will take longer to fill in the cells, but at the same time if your cell count # is say 50... It's going to be pretty solid data in those cells that populate. On my FIRST road test, I would set the cell count low like 5 and then go out and do a 10-15 minute drive with as much stop and go driving as you can-trying to accelerate as slowly as possible so no sudden jumps with the pedal that get into transient. Then, once you get that log done-do not adjust individual cells in the table.. Look and see an AVERAGE percentage that you are off across the table. Then change those columns (all of them) by the percentage that you are off. Yes, some will still be higher and lower than your desired, but this will make for a smoother ve table. Think of this as rough tuning knocking off the big errors. Then after doing that at least 2x, then change your cell counts to 10. Then do it 2-3 times, then jump to 25 hits. Then go up to 50 and drive it for a while with as much stop and go city driving as you can. With 50 cell counts and a 30+ minute drive with lots of stop and go driving you will have some good data.
That option in Hp Tuners to paste percentage by half, where you copy your results from your graph, and then paste them in... I don't EVER do that.. It will make your VE table look like a hair brush under a magnifying glass. Say for example my idle cell (just an example-700 rpm in the 45KPA cell) is a 60, and my log shows I'm 5% rich at idle. I'll highlight BOTH the 400 and 800 columns in their entirety and then multiply by .95.. this way ALL cells in the 400 and 800 column are reduced by 5% keeping a much smoother graph with almost ZERO spikes, or dips in it. Then I do the same for the other columns as I go.. Say I do a log and it shows that my 1600RPM column has several 5's, 6's, 7's, 8's, where it's rich.. I would highlight the entire 1600 column and then multiply by .95 (reducing the entire column by 5%) and then go out and do another short log.. yes, you might still be off in some of the cells but by adjusting the entire column at the same time, you can keep your table nice and smooth. In the end you will still have to go in and adjust some individual cells and then blend them in with those around them. But starting with a factory VE table, and adjusting entire columns to match your error percentage is a fast way to get a VE table dialed in and have it still looking smooth when done.
-
Tuner in Training
Thank you, I will for sure try this method. Going to have to read it a few more times to better understand, as I've only been doing this for about a month now. One thing I don't want is to be a wack tuner, I want to make sure i can give quality tunes for myself and clients. So, anything on my part where I'm slacking feel free to tell me. Maybe you could look at my tune file I posted when you have some free time and let me know?
-
I see you made changes, but the tune is basically stock. Were you just doing a touchup? Log shows it's running decent.
-
Tuner in Training
Well I'm really trying to unlock the secret power it has, i know the truck can run way better. Before i started tuning my friend tuned my stock 03 tahoe and it was a night and day difference in how it runs. My goal was to follow the steps in my material i got from the tuning school and write a tune on my truck and have the same night and day difference and it hasn't happened yet. Maybe as i get farther in the book ill come across it. I guess im heading in the right direction by your comment, thank you i do appreciate it. I just dont get how my tahoe was a huge difference but my truck isnt there yet. Could it be bc it is a z71? Then again i don't want to go adjusting any timing tables yet till i get a better understanding of what to do.
-
That's going to be the spark tables and shift/lockup points. Air/fuel looks good.
Btw turn spark torque reduction back on. It'll save the trans from damage.
Last edited by SiriusC1024; 11-21-2023 at 06:31 PM.
-
Tuner in Training
okay in my material it only shows me how to adjust WOT timing, told me to start at 15 degrees and move up in 2-degree increments. From 60 Kpa to 2800 rpm. I did a few tests, and I don't feel like it made a difference or if it was done right.
-
Tuner in Training
-
Look at the difference in the VE tables. The Tahoe file indicates more torque. Is your VE 100% correct? Spark tables are very different between the two files. Generally there's more advance in the Tahoe file. Both show spark torque truncation disabled. Bad.
-
Tuner in Training
okay i see the difference in the tables. but my next question is he never drove the tahoe when he wrote the tune did he just turn the primary table up by knowledge and experience? hes very good at what he does. Could i copy the primary ve table and MAF freq table and upload it to my truck? what about the spark tables could i do the same? and also did he change the tahoe high and low octane tables or do they look stock? And idk where the spark torque truncation table is? thats a funny word i woulda remembered that table lol.
Last edited by mikefain215; 11-21-2023 at 07:36 PM.
-
No. You tune the VE table specific to your vehicle.
The spark table is based on stock, but the high loads have been bumped up.
Torque truncation is at Torque Management>Spark Retard>vs Torque Reduction
-
Tuner in Training
Okay i think i have my primary and secondary table better what do you think? Also i fixed the Torque reduction back to stock. Where do i change the high loads so i can do that on my truck?
Maf ve completed ready to drive PE primary sec completed.hpt
-
By spark at high loads I mean high air load. So that means as higher MAP and RPM. Say 0.060 cylair by 2800 rpm. Take a look at the MBT table. That's the timing required to achieve Maximum Brake Torque. Use it as a guideline for adjustment.
Here's a quick example. I just took a whole section at higher loads and increased, and then it was blended using the smooth between vertical bounds feature.
hi spark ex.png
Go a little at a time and monitor for knock.
And idk about the VE table. I'd have to see the log. Plus, that tune you just posted still has MAF enabled. Do spark after you make sure the airflow models are accurate.
Reply With Quote