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Thread: wideband reading lamba

  1. #281
    Senior Tuner kingtal0n's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jacog View Post
    i tested the new tune but i feel like its to leanAttachment 139037Attachment 139038, also it started knocking for a while then it went away. i cheeked the oil but it was good, then i was looking at the oil pressure, it was at 19 at idle, is that too low, would a oil change fix. it my oil life is at 94
    Your current log


    Looking good. Just a reminder use my latest excel file and also make sure the engine is fully warmed 205*F before you start logs and using logs to tune with.



    Oil pressure problem:

    That engine should be close to 45psi at idle fully warm. You need a mechanical oil pressure gauge on it immediately. Use the top rear oil port behind the intake manifold.
    I suspect either
    1. bad oil pressure sensor
    2. bad oil pickup O-ring


    Here is a video of my LM7 same engine with 220,000 miles in the video using mechanical oil pressure gauge attached to behind the intake manifold oil supply port.
    Notice how the oil pressure gauge reads on the highway and when at idle. Yours should be pretty much identical.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FhqWjsASX5k



    Add this to your tools, a mechanical oil pressure gauge is critical tool when you get a new engine whether its high mileage or freshly rebuilt.
    Don't run the engine until you put a mechanical oil pressure on it.
    You can try 10W-40 high Mileage Mobil 1 synthetic oil which is what I use. But it shouldn't matter.

    If you see the pressure is below where mine is significantly you need to think about why. It could be a damaged Pickup O-ring they are common. However there is no telling what happened before you got the engine and what its been through.

  2. #282
    Senior Tuner kingtal0n's Avatar
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    Sorry 35psi at idle hot and around 52psi at 2400rpm is what mine said. I had 5W-30 at the time but changing to 10w-40 made little difference.

    If you are looking at an electronic oil pressure gauge then they are commonly reading wrong. Especially the stock senders which are frequently bad or damaged inside.

    The knocking you are hearing if you had a silent exhaust you could hear it much more easily and sooner, and take video of it for diagnostics. This is another reason to have a silence exhaust.
    Making the exhaust loud will not increase the engine torque. Just more noise. It may even reduce engine torque.

  3. #283
    Quote Originally Posted by kingtal0n View Post
    Sorry 35psi at idle hot and around 52psi at 2400rpm is what mine said. I had 5W-30 at the time but changing to 10w-40 made little difference.

    If you are looking at an electronic oil pressure gauge then they are commonly reading wrong. Especially the stock senders which are frequently bad or damaged inside.

    The knocking you are hearing if you had a silent exhaust you could hear it much more easily and sooner, and take video of it for diagnostics. This is another reason to have a silence exhaust.
    Making the exhaust loud will not increase the engine torque. Just more noise. It may even reduce engine torque.
    is this good or to cheap https://a.co/d/eCJwqoX, so the one in hp tuners log reads wrong.?

  4. #284
    Senior Tuner kingtal0n's Avatar
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    You need a mechanical gauge. Those are electronic. You need a gauge with an physical line from the engine to the gauge. Analog gauge.

    Like this
    eBay item number:225848811482



  5. #285

  6. #286
    Senior Tuner kingtal0n's Avatar
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    That gauge could work. It is only temporary for diagnostic. You could also barrow one from a mechanic friend. I could also send you one in the mail free if you want but you would be sending it back to me when done.

    Warning: Never mount a mechanical oil pressure gauge inside your vehicle. Rookie mistake. It will leak and spray oil all over the place. This is just a temporary gauge for you to see real oil pressure. Notice in the video mine was in the door handle air vent thing. I just put it there for a couple weeks after the cam swap to verify the oil pressure then got rid of it.


    I compared your old logs to recent log. It looks like you are losing anywhere from 10 to 25psi of oil pressure since you ran the engine last week. Either the sensor is bad, or the oil is low, or there is some problem with the pickup. Perhaps it is clogged with debris or the o-ring is sucking air. You will probably need to pull the oil pan off the engine soon to investigate depending what the mechanical gauge tells you. Always do this before you install the engine. I would have mentioned it but you put it in before we started.
    oil pressure.jpg

  7. #287
    ok ill see if i can rent one

  8. #288
    Senior Tuner kingtal0n's Avatar
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    Before swap an engine in it is recommended to inspect or replace the oil pump, front and rear main seals (and other various seals), and the O-ring for oil pickup tube.


    A. inspect or replace the oil pump, read the service manual, here is the OEM oil pump apart check for flatness


    B & C Torque the pump properly & Know which O-ring you need. There are at least 2 different types of oil pickup Orings for this engine, thin and thick. If the pickup is 'straight' it should use the thin O-ring iirc


    Probably best to just replace the oil pump with a new melling original replacement while you are in there before you swap the engine

    The Chevrolet trucks engines have notorious issue with o-ring on the pickuptube ,

    They also make this
    eBay item number:323404503676



    To help hold the pickup flat and prevent o-ring from kinda slipping out over time.

    If you rent one keep in mind rented tools could be bad or broken easily. I did not suggest renting one I said barrow one from a mechanical friend. If you rent somebody else might have ruined the tool already. Its a gamble. Maybe you should rent two of them and check both then. I would not trust 1 easily.

  9. #289
    Quote Originally Posted by kingtal0n View Post
    Before swap an engine in it is recommended to inspect or replace the oil pump, front and rear main seals (and other various seals), and the O-ring for oil pickup tube.


    A. inspect or replace the oil pump, read the service manual, here is the OEM oil pump apart check for flatness


    B & C Torque the pump properly & Know which O-ring you need. There are at least 2 different types of oil pickup Orings for this engine, thin and thick. If the pickup is 'straight' it should use the thin O-ring iirc


    Probably best to just replace the oil pump with a new melling original replacement while you are in there before you swap the engine

    The Chevrolet trucks engines have notorious issue with o-ring on the pickuptube ,

    They also make this
    eBay item number:323404503676



    To help hold the pickup flat and prevent o-ring from kinda slipping out over time.

    If you rent one keep in mind rented tools could be bad or broken easily. I did not suggest renting one I said barrow one from a mechanical friend. If you rent somebody else might have ruined the tool already. Its a gamble. Maybe you should rent two of them and check both then. I would not trust 1 easily.
    ok also if it comes to opening the oil pan, ima just replaced the oil pan with a ls swap pan because its lowered and the pan is lower than the crosmember

  10. #290
    Tuner gold98Z28's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gtstorey View Post
    I?ve tried those a couple of times and neither one has stayed accurate more than a few months.
    The instructions definitively determine that is a lie! Install it and it will be fine. No reason to go further with this, I?m never wrong? 🤭
    98 Z28m6,ramVDS,lakewood LCA,sphon SFC,NOS 125shot,HPtuned LQ4.045milled heads,224/228 581/588 comp cam,fast toys lid,ported 85maf,ls6 intake,long tubes with custom exhaust

  11. #291
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    Quote Originally Posted by gold98Z28 View Post
    The instructions definitively determine that is a lie! Install it and it will be fine. No reason to go further with this, I?m never wrong? ��
    Not sure what your point is. First post in 10 years and this is what you have to add.?

    Maybe a AI hacked account?

  12. #292
    Quote Originally Posted by gtstorey View Post
    Maybe a AI hacked account?
    That's my thought.
    • 2001 C5 Corvette (625rwhp - Procharger, LS6 heads, Torquer V2 cam)
    • 1991 Volvo 940 - 2JZGTE (600rwhp - PT6466, HKS 272 cams)

  13. #293
    ok so i ended up switching the whole pan with a new pick up, it reads higher now, this is how it lookstest run sfter pan change.hpltest tune 8 11,1.23.hpt

  14. #294
    i try to use the graphs and just want to make sure their goodVE auto tuner beta2.5 after pan try - Copy.xlsx

  15. #295
    Senior Tuner kingtal0n's Avatar
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    I'm looking it over now give me a few to look at everything you have alot of data there. How does it drive overall should be pretty good. knocking sound is gone and oil pressure is good? Did you check with mechanical gauge? Any pictures of the pan job? What was the problem in there, bad pickup? Bad O-ring? was the o-ring intact?

  16. #296
    i think it was the o ring it was a bit of cracks and when i took it off it broke. it does drive good, there's no more knocking, I wasent able to get the mechanical gauge. Ima go take some pictures right now.

  17. #297

  18. #298
    Senior Tuner kingtal0n's Avatar
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    Here is a updated VE table in excel you can paste directly
    And a small change to the coolant temp spark you will make

    11-20-23 VE update.xlsx11-20-23 update1.jpg


    Lets see how this VE table does should richen up those lower cells.

    The VE is pretty close. We just need to do some minor cleaning up then I can write your timing table and the torque should increase like a proper 5.3L should have.
    We also keeping an eye on the transmission pressure lets see what the new torque model does for that.

  19. #299
    i just wanted to make sure its correct cuz their was alot of changes to the vetest tune 9 11,20,23.hpt

  20. #300
    Senior Tuner kingtal0n's Avatar
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    Yeah I remade the entire ve table and smoothed it out by eye, its good to try. You can compare file to see the differences. When the stuff over 50KPA goes positive compare numbers are higher it means more fuel so that is fine if we go too far, a bit too much fuel is fine. Stuff under 50kpa when it goes negative compare its leaning out which is fine because under 50kpa lean wont hurt anything. This is how you can tell at a glance whether to question the changes. the magnitude of the numbers is not suspicious either, nothing 20 30 40 50 etc... no giant big number changes in there. If you saw a compare file change of say 30 it would be suspect. So between the magnitude of the changes and the direction (up or down, positive or negative) in the respective positions (under 50kpa or over 50kpa) you can assure the changes are rational.