Turbo LS Miata - SD

[5FDP]

Here is what I want you to do for the VE table.

Copy the 100kpa row of the VE. Then paste that row into the 315kpa row. Now with the tool at the top put 10 in the box and add 10 to that row. Now highlight from 100 to 315kpa, then click interpolate between vertical bounds. This will create the VE for you. The way the VE is right now is about 100-120% too rich in boost, it does not need to scale up like that when you have larger injectors/fuel system.

There is a very strong chance that the VE will still be too rich with how large your injectors are. This is where using the wideband error against the commanded AFR/Lambda comes into play. That error will tell you where the VE needs to be leaned out or made richer. Sometimes just a big global change is faster than small sections. If it's rich all over just minus 10-15% from everywhere and start over with another log. This way there isn't tons of back and forth, hand smoothing etc etc.

[wow]

Alrighty. UPDATE:

(No charge connected)
So, I have been driving the car around and gotten the VE table down to the 0-6% range. Still a little more work.
WOT without charge pipe is dead on the money.

Now couple of weird issues.
A) when coming to a stop, majority of the time, it stalls UNLESS I blip the throttle right before idle settles.
B) when it?s heat soaked after driving for awhile, I turn it off, try to restart and it doesn?t want to. Sometime is hesitates but then just keeps cranking.

That?s it for now. Thanks for all the help guys. You?re absolutely incredible.

[cobaltssoverbooster]

bucking and dying when returning to idle is typical of a cam setup where the Throttle Cracker and Throttle Follower tables have not been altered.
I cant remember which one does what but if your BRAF and idle fuel trims are on point then i would look here to alleviate some of this issue.

you may need to add some fuel to your startup tables. there is a table that gets thrown around all the time, but im just not remembering it. I think its like startup airflow or something like that. try increasing this by 15-20% and see how it starts.

[wow]

Sorry for disappearing for 2 months, BUT im back!!!

Installed a whole new fuel system:
- single walbro 450 feeding 6an to surge tank
- twin 044's in surge tank
- twin 8an lines [off the 044's] to "Y" to single 8an feeding filter
- 8an filter to rails
- crossover at front of fuel rails
- boost reference billet regulator at end of 2nd rail
- 6an back to surge tank
- 6an return surge tank to oem fuel tank
- big ebay fuel rails

no leaks, 60psi at idle, boost controller is all setup

I also redid the wiring because:
a] i had to add in 2 fuel pumps
b] i was having issues where the alternator was only charging 12.5 and it had a slow crank.

i ran a standalone start/alternator circuit straight to the battery and ran a secondary circuit straight to the control board of the car

charges 14 now and everything works GREAT!

In the process, i wired up my wideband to run on the EGR circuit in HPtuners because the serial cable was too short, always getting in the way and unplugging........ doing the EGR allowed me to have only 1 cable hooked up to the computer and will now allow me to put the computer in the passenger seat instead of the dash.

Following that, i have now setup the AFR reading, AFR error, and Injector duty cycle in the scanner.

THE CAR IS READY!!!!!

im going to retune it without the charge pipe just to make sure its all squared away and then reconnect it when im confident.

This is where i get lost. I THINK i asked this before so im going to have to re-read previous posts, but how to approach fueling and spark when it begins 2 bar and 3 bar?

I'll edit this when/if i find what im looking for.

Thanks for the support guys!

*****EDIT*****

Also another tip, keeping base pressure a bit lower (say 40-45psi) will help the fuel system components last longer and the pump will generate less heat.

Only turn the pressure up to 50-60psi if you need the fuel.

Looks like I’m changing it from 60 down to 45.

Then its easy. Dial in the injector size. -done
Use a referenced regulator (regulator needs vacuum signal). done
Adjust VE table to match the engine.
Always shoot for 14.8 to 15.2 in cruise/idle regions. Never let the engine wander into anything below 14.5's for more than a few seconds while cruise/idle because that will waste fuel and foul the plugs.
Drop A/F from 55-80KPA say mid 13's
Then by 85-105KPA drop the a/f to around 12.2 to 12.7 (depends on the situation) i.e. very hot engine, high load, highway regions, err on the side of richer
from 105KPA to about 150KPA around 12.0~ is typical
Then start dropping to the 11.8 to 11.2 range as it moves to 200KPA (15psi of boost)
This is the point at which pump gas is questionable. 93 octane I would stop between 14-17psi of boost on typical stock engines (of any kind) when using gasoline.
You can push it sometimes 22-24psi on 93 octane. I've even seen someone go 33psi on 93 octane before, using negative timing in some places. i.e. You better know what you are doing.


Verify the map and tps sensors reported values match the actual values of the atmosphere, engine pressure range, and throttle.
Dial in spark timing by starting low and creeping up on the torque, might need a dyno or EGT gauge if you don't have experience with that.
Again for the sake of getting you started.
Typically timing for modern engines (post 2002 era) on 93 octane drops into the low 20's say 21 to 23 around 0KPA at WOT. I actually run a bit less in the turbo spool region to help throw some heat on the turbine for when its cool and to keep the combustion pressure down for when its hot (low timing).
Again pull out timing from 105KPA to 150KPA should move from say 18* to 15*
Around 150-180KPA I use roughly 13* (pre-dyno)
180-210KPA I will start 9* and try 10 an 11* on the dyno

Trick is to use the lowest timing possible while still holding down the EGT to give the maximum head room for safety with the stock cast pistons.
On the dyno you can push an extra degree or two for a peak number, but I take that back out once the car goes back to the street.

everything else in the computer is just behavioral mods for regular driving. Only the VE table, enrichment state, and spark timing really control/contribute the WOT scenario.
In my gen3 computer I use a table under Spark->base-> "AFR timing" (the button says base) this allows you to adjust timing based on commanded a/f ratio. SO when the spark tables maxes out you can still have full control over the final timing. This keeps you from having to scale the tune. I would start with the stock file for your engine and simply adjust from there, rather than somebody elses file.

found what i needed, Ill be around with more questions im sure. Thank for ANY advice you guys offer, i really appreciate it.

[wow]

Stalls or WANTS to stall when I clutch in or pull outta gear coming to a stop..... majority or the time I need to play with the throttle and ease it off in order for it to idle.

If I just rev it at a standstill without moving, it?s fine?

[240sxpooter]

You need to provide some logs with data. Idle info, etc....

[wow]

Im back. It was an issue with the map sensor. EFI-Source 3 bar map was bouncing all over the place. Its definitely faulty.

Anywho, I paid to get the car tuned...... here is a mediocre log.
The car spiked at 7psi, but makes a steady 4psi. It dyno'd 500/500 being conservative with timing.

I would like to make the rest of the table all the way up to 315kpa "safe" if has not already been done. I assume i take the "boost" cells and double them as they go up?
can someone verify this?

Also, I am going to ask about easiest way to convert to e85.... Im going to research it directly after this post, but i figured id ask here as well.

You just never know when youre going to line up against a 1000hp vette or supra and need to give the miata some beans. lol Its fun as it sits, perfect for the street, but with the controller at hand, i just want it to be safe if i turn it up at the track

Tune file - Miata Tune - DO NOT MODIFY.hpt
Log - 4psi rips.hpl