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Thread: getting hot at idle but not while driving

  1. #1
    Tuner in Training
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    getting hot at idle but not while driving

    tonight went to get gas and back pulled in the garage and been having this problem with it getting hot. SO I logged some things and ill post the tune file. One thing temp got to about 217 and stayed there but I wanted to check drive and as soon as I did the temps started to climb and the iac count also started to raise which I thought weird. Is my engine loading up and that's the reason why its over heating?

    it was in a tight garage with the door open outside air was 65 degrees.
    Attached Files Attached Files

  2. #2
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    this is a SD tune so don't really know why the maf reading is doing that

  3. #3
    Tuning Addict 5FDP's Avatar
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    Just remove the MAF channels if it's a speed density tune, they aren't needed anymore. It's what I always do.


    Do you have a temp gun handy?? You could use that and see if the coolant temp is really getting that warm. I know the late 90's to early 00's temp sensors are prone to failure alot.

    Looks like both your fans settings should have been tripped too, where they just screaming and the temps are still rising??
    2016 Silverado CCSB 5.3/6L80e, not as slow but still heavy.

    If you don't post your tune and logs when you have questions you aren't helping yourself.

  4. #4
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    Yep have a temp gun. If I put the temp gun on the sensor it matches the temp on the scanner. If I remember right it goes in from the rad at 180 degrees.

  5. #5
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    ok so it didn't overheat today cause it's like 70 out but them were

    PCM =217
    thermostat it is 180
    top radiator hose 193
    driver side radiator side 136
    pass side 123


    Things to note the stem port that goes into the rad when the car was stone cold didn't have fluid covering the hole in the radiator. Is this normal? Double checked the fans are pulling through the radiator and I have 2 fans and shroud made for the fans that cover the whole rad area.

  6. #6
    Senior Tuner
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    Appears that the radiator is doing its job but maybe you have
    air in the heads, need to burp it?


    Quote Originally Posted by Cool28 View Post
    ok so it didn't overheat today cause it's like 70 out but them were

    PCM =217
    thermostat it is 180
    top radiator hose 193
    driver side radiator side 136
    pass side 123


    Things to note the stem port that goes into the rad when the car was stone cold didn't have fluid covering the hole in the radiator. Is this normal? Double checked the fans are pulling through the radiator and I have 2 fans and shroud made for the fans that cover the whole rad area.

  7. #7
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    Ya I had air again in it.. starting to wonder if I have a head gasket going

  8. #8
    Advanced Tuner RandomEnthusiast's Avatar
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    MZ-75E250B lisle part number. Most parts stores carry the fluid. You fill it and hook it to the reservoir or rad cap and if it turns the indicated color it's got a head gasket leak. Also another test is using a leak down tester. I've found a couple bad head gaskets with the fluid that the leak down test didn't show.

  9. #9
    Tuner in Training
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    Burp the system. You've more than likely just got some air in there, blocking the flow of the coolant. When cold, pull the cap off the reservoir. Then squeeze the lower and upper hoses going from the pump to the radiator. Try to get as many bubbles to surface in the reservoir as you can. then top off the reservoir and start it with the overflow cap off. Let it run w/ the heater on High for 5-10 mins. When it get gets up to temp, you'll see it actually burp a large bubble of air, one last time. Sometimes it helps to blip the throttle when warming it up. Then once it burps cap it off and you're goo to go(as long as you don't have any leaks in the system).