No start condition C5 DBW new LQ9 408

[blownbluez06]

Car won't start.
2002 C5.2-bar speed density. Fresh HKE iron 408, ID1000 injectors scaled back, picking up cam signal in the back. 2-bar tune Started up for 30 seconds and didn't stay running. Was rich. Lowered the VE globally and tried to restart and it wouldn't start. I started troubleshooting and found no cam hi/lo signal. I reversed the A&C pins and it is now incrementing 1-1, 2-2 and so on. They incremented equally all the way. The crank signal keeps putting up funny numbers. 65536 keeps recurring. Then something like 14329. I cranked the engine over with no plug wires and it sparked down to the valve covers. I smell fuel on start and the plugs seemed to be wet when I pulled them. I pulled the starter and exhaust and inspected the cam sensor harness and metered it back to the PCM pin for pin and all was good. I verified good voltage to all injectors and coil plugs. I metered the coil grounds to the chassis. I metered all 4 PCM grounds to the chassis. I verified no pins are expanded. I changed cam and crank sensors for good measure. I pulled codes. Nothing. Not even MAF fail codes P0102 and P0103 and I'm not sure if that's related. I've tuned many SD cars and never knew if it had to actually start before the MAF fails. VATS is turned off. The MAF 101, 2&3 are set to 0 "mil on first error". MAF table is Zero'd out. Dynamic High RPM disable set to 8k, MAF fail set at 0.
I have discussed this with a tuner that I think is on top of his game, Ed Hutchings (Edcmat-l1). I am taking my O-scope over there to analyze signals. I tapped the signal wire on the Crank sensor and am getting a frequency. I know that a 24 tooth reluctor should pulse around 4800 pulses per minute with a starting RPM of 200, so that's what I'm expecting to see if it's right.
When scanning, I see No RPM signal. I see injector pulse width varying from 6ms to 11 or so.
Any suggestions while I'm in this car would be much appreciated. I'm at my wits end.
I'll post the tune and a scan when I get back to the computer that holds it.

[mecanicman]

Is this an aftermarket harness? Why would you have to change cam sensor pins......

[blownbluez06]

Its a factory harness. It had a LS2 in it before and the adapter harness. All I can think is they reversed the wires somewhere other than in the caspers adapter harness. It wouldn't increment the hi/low until I reversed the two of them. I put the O-scope on it and with no plugs in it, it pulsed 9 pulses at 50% duty cycle and 2700 pulses per minute and then some long, low frequency high pulsewidth pulses, then another 9. I absolutely cannot figure this out.

[mecanicman]

1. If you put ve table back to how it was, can you get it to start? Have rtt loaded so you play with table after running to lean it out?

2. If it will still not start, try unplugging the cam sensor and starting. If there is a phasing issue and the cam sensor/crank are not agreeing and trying to start on wrong cylinder......Ignoring cam sensor and just going off crank sensor may crank little longer but will try one side then the other until it figures it out. Dont know if this is problem or if will help, just what comes to mind based on your description.

[blownbluez06]

Thanks for the help man. I'm feeling lost. Here's a picture of the scope signal. It doesn't look uniform.

[blownbluez06]

Here's a normal crank signal. Hmm.

[edcmat-l1]

The scope pattern on your scope looks correct. At the least, it should be enough to fire the coils, even if it's off.

As we talked about on the phone, next step is to scope the signal to #1 coil from the PCM, along with the #1 injector. You can do both with your 2 channel scope.

I'll send ya a text tomorrow and we'll try to get it figured out.

[blownbluez06]

The scope pattern on your scope looks correct. At the least, it should be enough to fire the coils, even if it's off.

As we talked about on the phone, next step is to scope the signal to #1 coil from the PCM, along with the #1 injector. You can do both with your 2 channel scope.

I'll send ya a text tomorrow and we'll try to get it figured out.

Thanks Ed. Don't forget I'm an hour earlier than you and the car is an hour away.

[blownbluez06]

Answer is:

Engine installer put wrong pilot bearing in and it killed the thrust bearing, moving the crank forward and the reluctor at the outside edge of the receiving window.

[mecanicman]

At least you figured it out! Who would of thought.........

[blownbluez06]

At least you figured it out! Who would of thought.........

Yeah. That's why you don't force things. There was a 3/4" gap when the shaft bottomed out in the bearing. The installer tightened the bolts until the bell housing seated on the engine. I'm so surprised he didn't break the bell housing. Thanks to you and Ed for your input on this problem.