Truck smells rich, help wiht tune for camshaft, injector, displacment change

[04colyZQ8]

2004 colorado with 2007 GMC savana van 4.8L motor.
-28lb / hr injectors
-06 GTO intake fuel rails
-06 SSR throttle body Mass air flow sensor gas pedal, E40 computer
-LS2 knock sensors
-injector top at spacers with 1/4 washers
-Luk clutch
-OBX 1 3/4" stainless steel long tube headers, and high flow cats for 06 trailblazer SS

-front o2s heater wired to be constantly on heater codes turned off.


I was comparing my camp specs stock LR4 Gm # 1256097 191/190 .457/.466 114

to the 06 SSR, which is the tune I am using GM# 12574519 204/211 0.520/0.520 116

I have changed the cylinder displacement to what it should be for a 4.8L, I changed the injector settings from 42 lb / hr to 28 lb / hr, thats what I am running.

Is there any tuning required for the different cam etc..

it passes emissions, but it really smells bad on idle, seems to rich, how does this log look? Can high flow cats smell richer than OEM ones? It smells like a old 80s vehicle.

I attached my config file and log, as well as the tune file.

Looks like I am getting knock even though I am running 91 octane gas. Is this from the cam specs? How do I adjust the tune for the different cam?

[04colyZQ8]

bump for the day!

[C6Z_sd]

Your VE table looks altered, but is that stock? MAF table looks stock. PE table looks stock. FTs are all over the place.

I'd start with the basics: MAF, VE, WOT, Spark. You've got it easy (easier) with a Main VE table.

An example, going with a bigger cam, I pulled about 45% out of idle and added about 10% for WOT.

[04colyZQ8]

Your VE table looks altered, but is that stock? MAF table looks stock. PE table looks stock. FTs are all over the place.

I'd start with the basics: MAF, VE, WOT, Spark. You've got it easy (easier) with a Main VE table.

An example, going with a bigger cam, I pulled about 45% out of idle and added about 10% for WOT.

The VE table should be for a stock 6.0 SSR V8, I have a 4.8L is that why it looks strange?

I haven't a clue were to start! If I get a wide band , will I be-able to do a paste special (autotune) will that fix these issues? I really wish this was easier for the average guy to learn... it's so complicated!!

Is there any good professional tuners on the west coast, that uses HP tuners? Or is there a directory on here some where for HP tuners at shops?

I am from Vancouver BC, but I can drive to Seattle Washington if need be.

And lastly is driving it like this going to cause any permanent damage? The motor has 13,292 kms on it and I put on 3800 miles with this tune

[C6Z_sd]

Read this (http://www.hptuners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=24869) then post whatever questions you have afterwards. I'm not a big fan of the idle tuning on the LS2 tuning guide, but otherwise a solid base from which to start.

Basically, you can't copy and paste from ther vehicles. You have to datalog to figure out what the motor wants; then make changes accordingly.

Follow the tuning guide, then post a scan and tune.

Good luck!

[04colyZQ8]

Read this (http://www.hptuners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=24869) then post whatever questions you have afterwards. I'm not a big fan of the idle tuning on the LS2 tuning guide, but otherwise a solid base from which to start.

Basically, you can't copy and paste from ther vehicles. You have to datalog to figure out what the motor wants; then make changes accordingly.

Follow the tuning guide, then post a scan and tune.

Good luck!

Purchased a AFK NGK wide band , hopefully this will make it easier for me to tune my self I'll check the link out as well.

[04colyZQ8]

Oops wrong log file, these are my most current log files.

Question do I need to tune idle if it seems to run ok? I have a smaller cam, smaller displacement, smaller injectors, than what the computers stock tables are.

I changed the injectors tables to a 4.8L 07 motor with 28 lb'hr injectors, thats what my engine is from. I also changed the displacement to 0.60080L to match that of a 4.8L.

The engine starts great and idles fine with this tune idles between 600-700 rpm very stable around 650 rpm. It just stinks like it is rich, but shows trims of -5 to -9.4 on idle, and my trims are all over the place along with some spark knock, when driving.

So do I need to mess with the idle settings at all? Or can I just tune MAF, VE, and PE?

The more I read the guide the better I understand it, just don't know in what order to start in? Or what IFR stands for?.. Injector flow ratings would be my best guess, my fuel flow rate verses kpa are in check with my smaller injectors I also changed the pulse rate to the proper settings, does this mean my IFR is setup right?

I also posted this in the LS2 tuning guide but no one responded to it?

[KFZ)^]

Are you using the VCM from the 07 Savana van? Because I would suggest starting with the stock tune for a 4.8 ... Check the tune repository.
That way, you have a base tune to go off of, with GM's tune for that exact LR4 engine and cam instead of trying to get that SSR tune to work.

[04colyZQ8]

Are you using the VCM from the 07 Savana van? Because I would suggest starting with the stock tune for a 4.8 ... Check the tune repository.
That way, you have a base tune to go off of, with GM's tune for that exact LR4 engine and cam instead of trying to get that SSR tune to work.

I have no choice but to use the E40 LS2 computer the old style double 80 pin green and blue LS1 computer was not compatible with the gauges in my 2004 colorado.

Using the E40 SSR manual tune everything works perfect electrons wise, just need to get it to run the motor more efficacy

[C6Z_sd]

You are correct on IFR.

The thing idles...success (for now). Go tune MAF and VE. Once that's less than 2-3% across the board, for both, you're done.

Once you're done with MAF and VE for part throttle, go tune WOT for MAF (that means turn your PE back on).

Then, tune idle. Let the thing idle for at least 10 minutes. Most LSs start out rich for the first few minutes, then trim out. It should be close to 0 LTFTs after 10 minutes.

Monitor spark (KR) throughout. If you have repeated areas giving you trouble, pull timing (use your default #2 histo). Headers sometimes give a false knock.

Now you're ready for spark tuning...a true art (if you ask me). Let me know when you get to this point.

By the way, your "rich" smell...don't worry about it. Trust your sensors and wide-band (once you get it).

You're doing great. Keep it up.

[04colyZQ8]

You are correct on IFR.

The thing idles...success (for now). Go tune MAF and VE. Once that's less than 2-3% across the board, for both, you're done.

Once you're done with MAF and VE for part throttle, go tune WOT for MAF (that means turn your PE back on).

Then, tune idle. Let the thing idle for at least 10 minutes. Most LSs start out rich for the first few minutes, then trim out. It should be close to 0 LTFTs after 10 minutes.

Monitor spark (KR) throughout. If you have repeated areas giving you trouble, pull timing (use your default #2 histo). Headers sometimes give a false knock.

Now you're ready for spark tuning...a true art (if you ask me). Let me know when you get to this point.

By the way, your "rich" smell...don't worry about it. Trust your sensors and wide-band (once you get it).

You're doing great. Keep it up.

Thanks alot! I maybe should have posted this here? .. Oh well started a new thread because I wanted to catch attention to having sort of a "hybird PCM" setup, what do you think of what I did using the E38 tables? The E38 I coped them from is really close to my motor.. same displacement, same MAF sensor, MAP sensor, heads, simulacra cam, same throttle body, knock sensors etc.. I thought it might be a better base tune to work with, now it just doesn't start right??

mmm copy E38 PCM tables into E40 hows this look?

[C6Z_sd]

Can't seem to open your link.

Similar cam means it's probably a decent starting point...but by no means a copy and paste solution.

Difficulty starting? Do you have to pump the gas to get it to start?

[IDRIVEAG8GT]

Substantially setting the idle to add roughly 2% fuel will help with the smell and yes those cats are going to stink more than factory. More exhaust gases escape through them than factory cats. Ask Steck for help on delaying the End of Injection Boundary Timing. It'll help with the smell too.

[Russ K]

The OBX cats that I've seen, aren't cats, but are resonators.

Russ Kemp

[04colyZQ8]

The OBX cats that I've seen, aren't cats, but are resonators.

Russ Kemp

On the road right now so can't plaqy wiht my truck, waiting on my wide band as well.

well OBX has both resinators and cats mine are cats "honey comb" inside

[04colyZQ8]

Ok I got my AFX wideband and tried logging wiht it to tune the lo maf.. not working well!!!

I disabled the Ve tables STFT, and LTFT Cat over temp protection. And loaded a histogram fo lo MAf vs air foe fuel ratio error. I then logged and copy pasted percent special. Retuned with the new maf low table and the truck ran like Hell so many miss fires and virbrated nearly stalling??

It also still showed a -38% error?? I then tried percent paste sepcial - half. truck ran at least this time but still showed a error of -38% WFT????

Waht should my new maf low table look like, I am seeing -38% error almost straight arocss the board?? Waht am I doind wrong?

Attched tune for logging MAF, config file histo file, and log file.

[04colyZQ8]

Here is the tune after I tried copying my histo table and copy multiply percent special paste. Didn't run well at all lots of knock vribrating allmost stalling?? Waht am I doind wrong?