Results 1 to 7 of 7

Thread: Would Ignition Voltage indicate the condition of the alternator?

  1. #1
    Tuner BlackGS's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Central Jersey
    Posts
    170

    Would Ignition Voltage indicate the condition of the alternator?

    Just curious. I have had some battery issues lately (losing charge overnight), and I want to make sure the alternator is working to spec. So, I started scanning Ignition Voltage and saw that it reads in the range of 13.7-14.4 while driving. That would seem to me that the alternator is putting out a good charge, right?

    2000 Regal GS | Twin-Charged T72 | HPT Pro + PLX Wideband | 12.55 @ 110 on 15psi | Now running 20psi on E85!

    1998 5.9L Durango | Powerdyne supercharger @6psi | Mesa Headers | Gibson Cat-back | 1.7 RR's | Tuned PCM | Ported Heads | Custom TB & Intake | Custom fuel rails | Rebuild coming soon...

  2. #2
    Yeah those are good numbers. As the temperature goes up, voltage output goes down. I see right around 14.5 on a cold start

  3. #3
    Senior Tuner Google's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Saint Peters, Missouri
    Posts
    1,303
    keep in mind the alt has volts and amps... volts can show good... but amps can be too low.. this can cause problems.. it's is a good idea to have an amp test to see if it is ok as well..
    We Can Fix Your Bricked PCM Or Your YYYYYY OS ID

  4. #4
    Advanced Tuner passingpower's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Grand Rapids, Michigan
    Posts
    301
    My GTP was showing the same numbers a month ago. Wouldn't hold a charge more than two days after a jump start. In the end, it was the cheap battery I installed last year. Replaced it with something good made by Johnson Controls this time. Read this: batteryfaq.org

    Go to a reputable parts store and have a load test done. Usually free. You shouldn't need to pay more than $110 or so for ur replacement.
    Last edited by passingpower; 12-04-2010 at 10:24 PM.

  5. #5
    Potential Tuner
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Virginia Beach
    Posts
    6
    Bob,
    Mine did the same. Thought it was the 1 year old Alternator or bad ground.
    Was reading 13.7+ . Turned out to be the $200 yellow top Optima battery that was 4 years old (Full replacement was 3 yrs!) Been reading about how alot of people have commented on them not lasting like they used to. Bought a Bosch Premium from Pep Boys w/36 mo. replacement for $80, after using $15 Discount Card they have at the register. It's PB's version of the Bosch S5 series battery, CCA 850, CA 1000. More cranking power and $120 less. Never started so well....
    Part# 78DT-850B
    SKU- 9872822
    In stores, not on web site.

  6. #6
    Tuner BlackGS's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Central Jersey
    Posts
    170
    Thanks for the replies.

    The battery is a Die Hard Gold and is one year old. As long as I run the car, the battery seems ok. When it sits overnight in the cold, the battery is either weak or dead in the morning. If I give it a quick charge, it works fine for the day. I'm thinking it is a bad battery at this point, and I will return it to Sears for a replacement.

    Charles, I hear you about those Optimas. I went through a yellow top and a red top in my truck, and they were both crap. They were constantly drained after the truck would sit for a few days. I replaced with a Die Hard, and that has been a strong battery for the last 5 or 6 years now.

    2000 Regal GS | Twin-Charged T72 | HPT Pro + PLX Wideband | 12.55 @ 110 on 15psi | Now running 20psi on E85!

    1998 5.9L Durango | Powerdyne supercharger @6psi | Mesa Headers | Gibson Cat-back | 1.7 RR's | Tuned PCM | Ported Heads | Custom TB & Intake | Custom fuel rails | Rebuild coming soon...

  7. #7
    A bad negative cable to the battery can mimic a dying battery. I had a bad negative cable once and these were the symptoms.

    Hard/slow cranking start
    runs rough for the first few seconds

    then all is fine until it is shut down, then it acts like the battery is dead. Turn the key and click, nothing. Wait a few minutes and the power comes back up. Wait another few hours until it started again.

    It also made charging difficult and did eventually kill the battery. Apparently the break was slim enough to allow enough to start the car but once the contacts got hot it went down hill which effected the cars ability to recharge what was used to start the engine.

    I determined that by attaching a jumper to the negative terminal on the Battery and then the ground of the car. All symptoms went away.
    96 Grand Prix 3100 5-Speed Turbo

    T04E 50-Trim Internal WG @ 12psi, Intercooled | HM-282 5 Speed w/ EP LSD | Spec 3 Clutch w/ HTOB Port-Polish-Deshrouded Heads | Ported LIM | 36 lb/hr L67 Injectors @ 65 rail psi | Walbro 255 Pump | 2.5" Custom Exhaust w/ Dual Flowmaster 40s | 97 PCM w/ 2 Bar Map HPTuned | Synchronic BOV | 220A HO ALT | ARP Rods/Main/Pan/Studs/Flywheel Bolts

    Gauges: Wideband (data logging), EGT, Boost/Vac, Turbo Oil Press, Oil Temp