Rookie Needs Help - Car shut off - won't re start

[JumboShrimp]

Hi All
I'm very new to this and looking for some advice. I put a LSA blower on a 03 Z06. Had a tuner help get it running (That's a LONG story). Drove the car yesterday for PA state inspection. Had a 'newer' tune loaded and it actually ran better than it had been. Here are some logs and the tune- If someone could please take a minute to look and point me in a direction.

Log 1 was to the shop- no problems and the RPM gauge on the scanner worked

Log 2 was leaving the garage, quick stop at a convenience store.

Decided to take it on a loop we have here - 18 mi up, across and down a 'mountain'. A fun drive with lots of turns. That's log 3. I didn't notice that the RPM wasn't reading and don't know why - the drives are minutes apart. The car just died - It went very lean and shut off-- like it ran out of gas.

I can't get it to re-start. The tank had 8 gal in it, now it's full. I have 51 PSI Fuel, Good Oil PSI, Decent Coolant temps, IAT's are a bit high but I'll sort that out.

The other log is cranking it to see if I had RPM (thinking the crank sensor quit) - It is fine... I think. I assume so because it read an RPM Value.

MJF_LSA-C5_CurrentTune.hpt
CrankingForRPM.hpl
3-ShutOff.hpl
2-BeforeShutOff.hpl
1-BeforeShutOff.hpl

If it helps & you need to know more about the Mods done to the car - there were plenty! -let me know. I am really grasping at straws here. Hoping someone can see something in the tune or log files that might give me a clue on what went wrong & where to start fixing this. Just about EVERYTHING in the build is Brand NEW
I am totally lost but I think it HAS to be something stupid.
Thanks SO MUCH in advance for any input

[5FDP]

What MAP sensor are you using?

If you are running the LSA MAP, you have the wrong MAP sensor settings in it. Also make sure the MAP is pinned correctly.

If you are running without a MAF sensor, you also have the tune setup wrong for that as well. The MAF isn't failed and the MAF dtc's are not set correctly.

Also the open loop EQ ratio needs to be set to 1.00 for all cells above like 120-130 degrees, so it always targets stoich at running temp.

[blindsquirrel]

There are some basics for a cranks-no-start that seem to be missing, long before we get to looking at tune files or even scan data.

Does it have spark? Like, spark at the end of the plug wire that will jump a meaningful gap.

Does it run if you spray it with brake/carb cleaner?

-----
Something to keep in mind is that NEW does not mean GOOD. Since forever, but especially here recently, quality of new parts has gone totally in the shitter. Even for the trusted genuine name brands, not just the fly-by-night anonymously-rebranded Chinese imports, because a lot of those trusted brands are now outsourcing to the same factories that make the anonymous garbage parts. Suspect everything, especially any new parts.

[blindsquirrel]

You have a P0102 in the '3-ShutOff' log - but the MAF isn't failed in the tune?

What injectors are you using? If they're the stock LSA injectors, all that data is wrong. Fixing all the stuff wrong in that file will mean any tuning done up to now will have to be thrown out. And this is separate from the no-start thing...

[JumboShrimp]

Thanks for the quick replies

5FDP - I am using the stock ZL1 Lid's Red Sticker MAP. Why would it need re-pinned? There are a few others (4 that I know of) that did this LSA / C5 swap. I've talked to most of them and that never came up. Most are using the 411 PCM and getting good results. I WILL look into the other settings you mentioned. I do have a 'new' tune that fails the MAF, EVAP & AIR systems that keep throwing codes. I can write that CAL after dinner soon. But WHY did it just die after running for DAYS??

Squirrel - I need 2 people to try start fluid or similar - now that the boss is home from work I will do that and report back. Sadly, I agree with the quality of NEW stuff in this F'd up world. 'Suspect Everything' will become my new Motto. But what should I suspect first?

Thanks again for the help - any more???

[JumboShrimp]

OK... My wife just sprayed LIBERAL Start Fluid into the TB while I cranked - Nuth'n.
I thought it was a fuel problem but now I gotta go to plan B - I will remove a plug and see if there is 'meaningful' spark - that's next.
I am running 60# FIC injectors but my tuner (old skool guy - I like him too) doesn't see the need to import the Spread Sheet data into HPT. I disagree with that. That's why they publish it! He's all about VE and Spark (Which I don't seem to have)
Next??

[5FDP]

The correct MAP sensors settings are 312.50 and -11.25 for the linear and offset.

If the MAF is gone set the MAF fail high to 0hz and set the 3 MAF dtc's to MIL on first error and uncheck the SES box.

We here also disagree with your tuner. If injectors come with data, that data must be put into the calibration. So make sure that data is 100% correct for the injectors you bought.

Also turn off VATS in the system options, we don't want the security system preventing it from running with all the OS changes and what not.

[JumboShrimp]

The most recent tune file he sent (today's) has the MAF and other stuff mentioned above failed. Done. I'll write that tonight.
I watched a Utube from one of the 'Big Time' HPT guys about importing the injector data and it looked easy - but my spread sheets are WAY different than what they showed so I really don't know what to put and where to put it. Would you like to assist on that?? Most of them just say 'pick your table' and I guess it's based on Row / column
headings?
I'll look at the MAP settings and se if I can make those changes. GEEZ - What happened to tuning with a screwdriver?!
VATS is off - that was done after my Mail Order Tune that wouldn't let my car start (again - LONG story)
Sooo, Apparently My fuel problem is a Spark Problem. Where is the best place to start to T-Shoot this.
The F'n car was running - running fine but needed tuned. Now THIS?!
Ain't HotRodding Fun??

[blindsquirrel]

If it's a no-spark situation, look at your diagrams and pick out what ALL the coils have in common - same fuse (PCM #16), same relay (IGN #42), same ground (G107), same PCM.

[JumboShrimp]

The correct MAP sensors settings are 312.50 and -11.25 for the linear and offset.

Can you explain the difference between my current settings and you suggested #'s? There is a BIG difference - especially in the offset. I love learning this stuff. even a link to where I could learn about what you're talking about.
Thanks again - I'm gonna go write the MAF fail Cal now - I can't see how that will give me spark but it needs done - so I'm gonna do it
Thanks for all the help = but I need More.

[JumboShrimp]

If it's a no-spark situation, look at your diagrams and pick out what ALL the coils have in common - same fuse (PCM #16), same relay (IGN #42), same ground (G107), same PCM.

I tested ALL the fuses for Continuity - Passed.
I'll DVOM the injector plugs. Not sure how to test the coils. In my life, any electrical problem is usually that ground - 9.5 out of 10 times. Good point. I'll confirm that. May be tomorrow. That takes some time and I gotta be at work early tomorrow.
Crud is ALWAYS the enemy of electricity. I hope MY problem is that simple.

[5FDP]

Not much to explain. All MAP sensor have specific settings that go with them.

The LSA/ZR1/ZL1 MAP sensor uses those settings. Just look at your logs, the MAP kpa is pegged at 105kpa when you key on engine off and it should only read 100kpa at sea level. You also need to remove the 1 bar map channel and replace it with the 3 bar map channel for logging boost.

The settings you have are just default settings the 3 bar OS gives and 9/10 times the MAP people end up using will use different settings.

[blindsquirrel]

screenshot.20-07-2022 22.01.13.png screenshot.20-07-2022 22.02.52.png

[JumboShrimp]

You also need to remove the 1 bar map channel and replace it with the 3 bar map channel for logging boost.

I asked the tuner about all that and he said it WAS the 3 bar - can you explain how to remove what you mentioned? Again, I need Barney level stuff because I'm just learning.
Some of the things I've watched on the You Tube showed a Boost Enrichment table on the same page as normal PE. I don't have / can't find that. Is it because I have a newer version or is it because I'm still really in 1 BAR? My head is a-spinnin.

Squirrel - Those are PERFECT! Thanks for the leg work. I'll get back there somehow. This car is 10# of Poo in a 4# bag!

You guys are GREAT! Thanks so much for the time & Talent here. You have no idea how much it means to me.

[gtstorey]

Can you explain the difference between my current settings and you suggested #'s? There is a BIG difference - especially in the offset. I love learning this stuff. even a link to where I could learn about what you're talking about.
Thanks again - I'm gonna go write the MAF fail Cal now - I can't see how that will give me spark but it needs done - so I'm gonna do it
Thanks for all the help = but I need More.

Best listing I know of for the various GM map sensor values.https://forum.hptuners.com/showthrea...ear#post400484

[JumboShrimp]

A little Progress...
I cleaned every ground & Opened / closed every Weatherpac connector I could reach Taking the blower off is a LAST RESORT.
I got it to fire but it dies right quick. Not like VATS though. (is disabled). My Tuner didn't like that the Batt drops into the 11's on cranking. Once it fired and reved a little it went to 14's. I don't think its a Batt issue - that starter was never meant to spin a blower and that 100" belt / tensioners. Enclosing the Start / Die log for review.
I did not yet change the MAP #'s and I don't know where to put the data from FIC - there are many tables to choose from and I just don't know which is correct for where - some have different names than HPT is looking for.
Thanks again for any help

[5FDP]

The MAP numbers are a huge piece to the puzzle, it needs to know the correct settings so it can read manifold pressure correctly.

In the scanner just remove the intake manifold pressure sensor channel and search for the 3 bar manifold pressure channel.

The only injector data you need are the Injector flow rate, min injector pulse, short pulse adder and the offset vs volts data. FIC should have that data listed pretty clearly in the spreadsheet. You have a P01 computer if they list that in their data.

[JumboShrimp]

The MAP numbers are a huge piece to the puzzle, it needs to know the correct settings so it can read manifold pressure correctly.

In the scanner just remove the intake manifold pressure sensor channel and search for the 3 bar manifold pressure channel.

The only injector data you need are the Injector flow rate, min injector pulse, short pulse adder and the offset vs volts data. FIC should have that data listed pretty clearly in the spreadsheet. You have a P01 computer if they list that in their data.

Awesome and helpful!! I'll give it a shot - gotta Mow some F'n grass first. :+(

[JumboShrimp]

The MAP numbers are a huge piece to the puzzle, it needs to know the correct settings so it can read manifold pressure correctly.

In the scanner just remove the intake manifold pressure sensor channel and search for the 3 bar manifold pressure channel.

The only injector data you need are the Injector flow rate, min injector pulse, short pulse adder and the offset vs volts data. FIC should have that data listed pretty clearly in the spreadsheet. You have a P01 computer if they list that in their data.

I am going to go over all the changes made and add that Injector Data. I was under the impression I had a '411' PCM - is that the same as the P01 you mentioned?
After I get it all added and loaded I'll report back here.
Thanks again to all who have been so generous!!

[5FDP]

P01 is the actual computers name. 411 is just a part number or whatever that people call it. I think the "411" name is kinda stupid, so I try to not say it.