engine swap w/ truck norris 218/224 108 lsa

[MPTA]

thanks.
does it matter i have a precision 12" converter with unknown stall.
i bought it new and said i wanted to go WOT with a trailer on the back. they said here. buy this 12" multi disc. thats why i stuck with a "truck cam"
218/224 is small for lq4.
also, i need to dial up the tc duty cycle or get rid of it. i want it to feel like this thing has an extra gear.

[Fast4.7]

thanks.
does it matter i have a precision 12" converter with unknown stall.
i bought it new and said i wanted to go WOT with a trailer on the back. they said here. buy this 12" multi disc. thats why i stuck with a "truck cam"
218/224 is small for lq4.
also, i need to dial up the tc duty cycle or get rid of it. i want it to feel like this thing has an extra gear.

Copy the Maximum TCC duty cycle to the Minimum table. It can also be done hydraulically if you feel like working on the valce body.

I have a converter built by Performance Torque Converters of Texas and told them the same thing. They went out of their way to increase the STR of it.

[MPTA]

STR
whats that in english

i shoulda took the pump out and seen if it was drilled but i didnt. my converter came with a different spring for the pump and directions said it was optional, so i called my trans builder and he screamed at me for wanting to pull the pump out, i think he glued it in but i do see some weepage around lower bolts. wish he woulda glued those beforr i filled it.

i think my work truck with stock converter i set the minimum to 80 and that felt pretty good. will i have issues unlocking if i copy max. also dony know jack about shift pressures. looks like oem in the tune had some pwm added to the 0-600 rpm for stock idle rpm. which looking at oem shift pressures they are really low down there so im guessing it would burn clutches down there without it. i wonder with my higher idle if i should scale some of that stuff up.. i could honestly play with all that after i get good tune on the motor so its really on the back burner for now

[dhoagland]

i think my idle rpm for in gear should be lower.
shouldn't it?
i bumped both idle tables up 200rpm as advised for a starting point back in the beginning of this process but no mention here nor there of "p/n" vs "in gear."
well with the 200 added my in-gear AND p/n rpm targets sit at 750.
i get it, i get it, its a generic starting point.
i think this is f'ing me now because i dont have a loose converter.
the idle air desired g/s for in gear is a huge transition from p/n desired air because i have an 4l80/tight verter hangin on the flexplate, that + higher base rpm = a tiny bit of load on the motor = hey i want more air to do this shit. side effect = weird transition gap between the two tables.

Everybody says make sure you blend things so its a smooth transition.

i have a column shifter. P R N D 3 2 L
now imagine you are my pcm.
I start the truck, crack a beer, throw it in drive and take my foot off the brake and your like hell no! heres some spark retard, i have to think about what just hit me.

i don't know maybe im a fricken idiot but the only way i can think of blending that together is to lower the in gear rpm some to get that airflow table closer to the park airflow table, it would keep my map from bouncing and sequentially not throwing a wave of side effects into the equation.

hopefully someone has some useful insight.

Fast4.7 gave ya a good response

My question: Does that cam really need to idle 750?
Can you tune it (meaning dial MAF & VE down to 650, hell 600 RPM) then Tune idle air again at those RPM?
Yes, the same process you just went through but further down the scale.

I'm guessing idle at 650 might make you current concern go away

[MPTA]

i started over again today.
i set gear idle at 625 and p/n idle at 665
disabled all fuel trims and shut off adaptive idle.
i smoothed weird oem idle timing tables so on decel the spark funnels it back into its idle area and left the idle spark at stock 16* and voila, thing runs mint.
had to pull some air out of main ve in idle area and bump the base running airflow but not nearly as much as before., i just kept looking at wideband once warmed up and bounced back and forth between tuning main ve and b.r.airflow until it was spot on. prolly ten minutes of reflashing and than i jacked the rearend off the driveway and logged some no load ve stuff, flashed that 3 times, interpolated each time and ve is spot on and table is smooth off idle. switched over to doing some light throttle up and down the road, paste/blended that 3 times, switched to maf only and left all fuel trims disabled. drove mile, pasted blended maf hz, drove mile home, multiplied by half%/blended
called it an afternoon. next time i play with it im gunna leave fuel trims disabled and blend the maf in around 2500 and run it, make sure theres no weird stuff and turn fuel trims back on. make sure adaptives dont freak out and play from there.
i must say, im happy i started over a third time. for whatever reason everything fell right into place today. truck feels almost oem when coming to stop signs. sounds clean too. i really like the sound of the slower calmer idle.
prolly not even close to peak torque but the drivability is smooth.
so far so good.

[dhoagland]

i started over again today.
i set gear idle at 625 and p/n idle at 665
disabled all fuel trims
i smoothed weird oem idle timing tables so on decel the spark funnels it back into its idle area and left the idle spark at stock 16* and voila, thing runs mint.
had to pull some air out of main ve in idle area and bump the base running airflow but not nearly as much as before., i just kept looking at wideband once warmed up and bounced back and forth between tuning main ve and b.r.airflow until it was spot on. prolly ten minutes of reflashing and than i jacked the rearend off the driveway and logged some no load ve stuff, flashed that 3 times, interpolated each time and ve is spot on and table is smooth off idle. switched over to doing some light throttle up and down the road, paste/blended that 3 times, switched to maf only and left all fuel trims disabled. drove mile, pasted blended maf hz, drove mile home, multiplied by half%/blended
called it an afternoon. next time i play with it im gunna leave fuel trims disabled and blend the maf in around 2500 and run it, make sure theres no weird stuff and turn fuel trims back on. make sure adaptives dont freak out and play from there.
i must say, im happy i started over a third time. for whatever reason everything fell right into place today. truck feels almost oem when coming to stop signs. sounds clean too. i really like the sound of the slower calmer idle.
prolly not even close to peak torque but the drivability is smooth.
so far so good.

Glad to hear it!

[MPTA]

i need to learn how to upload screenshots on here.
i use wireless phone for internet and when im on the forum i use my phone.
my laptop is of the $20 pawnshop variety and its slow.
in order for me to post logs i have to hotspot to that dinosaur and the web browser is so bad i have to use the .html version of email. email the tunes to my self. download them to my phone. upload them to my bulletin board.
on top of all that our wireless towers are overloaded with traffic so i have turn airplane mode off and on just to get a ping and quick type search for crap right now.
im super glad for your guys input and moral support!
i dont know how i nutted up the patience to get this truck a base tune.

[Fast4.7]

STR
whats that in english

i shoulda took the pump out and seen if it was drilled but i didnt. my converter came with a different spring for the pump and directions said it was optional, so i called my trans builder and he screamed at me for wanting to pull the pump out, i think he glued it in but i do see some weepage around lower bolts. wish he woulda glued those beforr i filled it.

i think my work truck with stock converter i set the minimum to 80 and that felt pretty good. will i have issues unlocking if i copy max. also dony know jack about shift pressures. looks like oem in the tune had some pwm added to the 0-600 rpm for stock idle rpm. which looking at oem shift pressures they are really low down there so im guessing it would burn clutches down there without it. i wonder with my higher idle if i should scale some of that stuff up.. i could honestly play with all that after i get good tune on the motor so its really on the back burner for now

STR = How much torque multiplication. If you have the engine spinning the converter and the transmission input shaft held, like you are power braking for a launch the converter is multiplying torque. Some are in the 1.5-1.7 range and others are in the 2.3-2.5 range. A stock factory high stall for a 4L80E like a B82 is about 2.1 or so. A factory B81 low stall is about 1.7 and were used behind big blocks and diesels making more torque. By re-angling the fins, welding the fins, machining for tighter tolerances and custom machining the stator they are able to achieve higher multiplication. So this is just an example, but if I have a 1.5 STR and the engine is making 400 ft/lbs at the stall speed the transmission sees 600 ft/lbs at the input shaft. If I have a 2.5 STR I have 1,000 ft/lbs at the input shaft. Some others call this a soft vs hard hit converter. Higher STR feels looser like it is slipping at lower rpm, but when you stand on it and flash the converter it hits harder from the added torque multiplication.

[MPTA]

thats good stuff right there.
i need to look back at my scans now.
since i have no clue what my stall is, and purchased the converter over a year ago, im almost certain if i called and asked them what my stall is it would be a guess. maybe i will anyways if i can find the receipt.
cant i log slip and do some brake launching.. and figure out a way to dial it in more specifically. im sorry my brains feel like mashed potatoes after the weekend i had and first day back to work was rough.
torque management on this thing is overkill.
i started playing with shift pressures and stopped myself.
put it back to square one and went to the tq man, spark vs retard and halved it. i obviously dont want to brake my back window out with my skull between gears at wot but i dont want any of that tq bs starting from a stop in the beginning of first gear. dont have my laptop right now but i will be reading into it more i guess.
also with "unknown" said shift kit, my builder guy didnt recognize some of the components he said, i just kept things in order put new clutches, steels, bands, bushings, pistons, and reseated checkball seats... but i visually saw a pressure relief bypass last time i had the pan off.
anyways i basically have no clue what the kit is, i think he said it had an aftermarket valve that fixes some leak, and couple places looked drilled but him being an older guy just did what he thought it needed. i know its a pre ls 4l80 bell cuz it doesnt have the top hole. and i think it had the short lube tube. so 98 is my guess, anyways. i should figure a way to look at shift times before i blaze around too long with it, any configs or maths would be appreciated. like i said i'll be reading into it now that its streetable.

[MPTA]

why did this thing miss my target shift point by 1100 rpm??
towards the middle of this log i was rolling slow in 3rd gear and stood on it. if you look you'll see it dropped to first and as the rpm climbs the drivebywire starts closing before the 1<2, the spark jumps because the map drops quickly. it made the shift but it was so light that i thought it was gunna flare.
my tune i set the wot shift to 4750 and it also completely ignored my mph.
im guessing it needs an adjustment to shift timing or shift pressure but would like second opinions.
i was not running maf.
i liked how the part throttle shifts felt, just firmer than stock with tqman multiplied by 50%

[MPTA]

bump

[Onomoto]

Following thread. Currently tuning. Atruck Norris cam and found a few good pointers