Newbie needing criticism and pointers

[Gingerich10]

Hello,

Start off by saying thanks for taking the time out of you day to check this tune and log out, Im pretty fresh with HP tuners and unfortunately started with Holley software so this was a pretty crazy experience and learning curve. My buddy spent some money on a remote tune that had the truck running like hot garbage, so I told him id give it a try.

Vehicle- 2004 Silverado 1500 5.3L - Full exhaust/Texas speed true duals - BTR stage 2 truck cam - gen 4 2010 Camaro maf sensor conversion - 4L80e trans shift kit/40k cooler/2600 single disc


Issues Im having-

1. I know I did something wrong along the way because my LTFTs are WAY off. Did I forget to turn off 02s maybe?

2. I cant for the life of me change start up perimeters to get it to fire on first crank, always beginning of second.

3. Trans tuning I'm completely oblivious to trans tuning, I found another post on here and tried to make the most out of it, but feel like theres major room for improvement because she's still getting hot and shift points seem less than Ideal

4. Backfire through exhaust when converter is locked under load climbing a small hill.. I did see knock around this area, adjusted and still having issue.

I do better at read learning rather than watching videos so I figured id see what kind of feedback I could get here.

PS PLEASE IGNORE THE FILE NAME DIFFS IT IS SAME TRUCK

Thanks for the input

[5FDP]

Cylinder volume is wrong for a 5.3, it thinks it's a 6.0 engine size right now and that will skew the data you are getting.

The open loop EQ ratio must be 1.00 for all cells when warm, otherwise you will never get your fueling straight if dips down into the spots that it's .90.

The MAF conversion was a waste in my opinion, completely not needed for this type of engine mods.

Hard to say why you did wrong with the setup for fuel tuning depending on which one you were tuning first. It's rich just about everywhere, -15 to 20% just cruising and about 1.5 point richer at wide open throttle too. Don't be surprised if this needs more injector once you start pushing 5,800-6,000rpm. Log the injector pulse width avg for both banks.

I just skimmed through it real quick and saw this stuff.

[kingtal0n]

For the trans you really need a pressure gauge 0-300psi installed to the 1/8" Npt tap on the top of the case.




Most 4l80e at say 500rwhp you would shoot for 200psi~ at WOT for example. But there is no way to read how much PSI of trans pressure from the scanner tool, it takes an external gauge.

The getting hot... You really don't want to see over 175*F or 180*F max with a 4l80e. 190, 200 is too much.
There are many sources of possible heating. One is too small of a cooler...
Need a gigantic trans cooler with a fan. I set the fan 180*F and it should never come on.

Another source is heating from exhaust, maybe wrap or shield the trans pan and lines from hot exhaust.
another source is slippage, if the trans is worn, slips due to stock size separator plate holes (OEM valve body stuff) it could get hot.
another source is torque management, I notice when my timing is pulled the exhaust can get very hot near the trans during torque management... (back to shielding/wrap)

The factory tables for trans 4l80e pressure seem to be wayyy off for us performance guys. It depends how much load, weight, torque the engine can make, the size of tires, gear ratios, all of it matters. For example if you have 300ft*lbs with large tires, numerically low gearing, it could need much more pressure to keep from slipping than something with 500ft*lbs of torque that uses smaller tires and numerically high gearing. Just as an example.

The basics is, you need to watch the EPC (force motor current) it will read in AMPS or Milliamps (mA = milliamps = thousands of an amp). So 1mA is .001 amps of current.
The lower the amperage to the EPC the higher the line pressure will go, to some max set internally by the trans setup and boost/pressure regulator valve.
You need to watch the EPC Current "squeeze" the trans pressure at the right times during driving, like when you stab the throttle it should jump from like 800mA to about 90mA instantly, to squeeze the clutches together, prevent slippage.

I'll see if I can upload some logs or tune later for demonstration, but remember my numbers are specific to my trans, it won't give you the same pressure, you have to check with a gauge mechanically. In other words, you can't just copy any random tune file, or even depend on your 'max pressure' setting, it might not be good enough.

[kingtal0n]

I tried to circle the 4l80e stuff, big arrows


When the engine torque increases due to (usually) throttle position increase,

the EPC acts like a TV cable (throttle valve cable)

"pulling" the TV cable results with increased transmission line pressure,
likewise when the TPS increases it should "PULL" the EPC's imaginary cable and raise line pressure.

The thing is, how much pressure do you need? Will depend on the entire vehicle, weight, tires, gears, etc...
Generally speaking at WOT we always shoot for 200psi or so (195psi, 205psi, something like that)
And if that isn't enough, we have to modify the valve body, change Pressure regulator valves, or boost valves, stuff like that.

With stock separator plate holes in the 4l80e stock valve body, the fluid can move only so fast to fill a drum, so even with high EPC Commanded pressure the transmission can still slip some. It is wise to use as much torque management as possible (under transmission settings) to reduce torque during a shift so it doesn't slip easily.
Even with a built 4l80e I still use torque management to prolong transmission lifespan and of course it helps with tire spin a little bit.

[kingtal0n]

Ah, my file. Good to compare your transmission settings with, especially force motor table and shift pressure.
5-7-22_pullWOTfuels_sharpenmids.hpt


Some logs you can review to observe transmission behavior
22-05-07 10-27-41.hpl
22-05-06 06-51-14.hpl

A layout to help with scanner details maybe
layoutmatter.Layout.xml

My 4l80e mods

Here is the list of 'secret' mods recommended to build 4l80e for daily driver performance, as per Clinebarger and Dana at probuilt.
(live 'forever' at approx 800rwhp using original shafts and drums)
Use 2002-2004 rear lube 4l80e!
Trans-go AFL valve fix kit
.044" - .054" Lube to line orifice, this is drilled into pump. Alternatively Sonnax sells a PR valve with lube orifice built in
https://www.sonnax.com/parts/1989-lu...egulator-valve
1/4" Pump return enlarged and filed smooth *all pumps get this*
Only use Borg Warner high energy clutches
Dual fed internally, no leaky shift kit plates, no leaky over-pressure mod
Do Not use HD2 shift kit!
1500 grit polished sprag races
2nd gear feed @ .097", 3rd gear @ .108", 4th @ .125"
Feed holes match well with 2800-3200rpm Yank Converter 9.5" Triple lockup
You must use lightweight 9.5" converter to reduce rotating mass and bushing wear.
All checkballs maintained!
Leave direct drum internal seal on (Do not remove like so many online tutorials recommend)
Rollerized rear output thrust surface (many ways to do this) Research!
Set Rear Roller Thrust for output shaft end play @ .003" from original 0.025" *tightens up the 4l80e significantly and reduced friction*
Front end play near .010" - .015" using new .075" pump washer
reaction carrier tightened up to center support at .012" from .037" (requires .005" shims)
all plastic thrust are replaced with metal (metal thrust kit)
.108" Thick HD intermediate snap ring *absolutely required no matter what*
Sonnax boost valve (OEM pressure) & PR valve w/ Internal pressure relief from Sonnax
.035" orifice added to edge of direct drum to prevent centrifugal apply (allows +7000rpm 4l80e)
File case tangs and pump recess *de-burring before assembly* and properly cleaning is essential, do not rush!
There are special mods you can do with bushings, drill shafts for fluid flow, etc... but this is considered unnecessary for a hobby level rebuild IMO
all new clutches, sprags, bearings, bushings, seals, thrust washers, bonded pistons *standard rebuild kit items*

You can use electrical tape instead of ring sizers for a single build. You will want a seal lip installer and other minor tools. Spring compressor for the drums from Amazon is very cheap.
Just buy an extra seal kit in case you damage one, they are very cheap kits full of all the rings and small seals.
I go through a 4l80e here, and you can see other ideas as it is a sort of build thread.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...post1602626211