Novice looking for advice

[bug]

Taking a crash course on my own personal vehicle and would like any constructive criticism that you guys may have for me.

Vehicle is a 2006 Buick rainier, 5.3l, cammed, no cats. Using an aem wide band. I've noticed that it wants to go into open loop randomly, and I can't figure out why. Also, I'm now getting a bit of knock at lower rpms that I didn't notice before, I know I can take out timing, thought I already did that. Cold starts are hard, first try stumbles hard but second try always fires up. Cold air idle sucks, and I've tried adjusting start up air flow and cranking fuel, but I can't seem to get it right.
Thanks in advance

[bug]

Taking a crash course on my own personal vehicle and would like any constructive criticism that you guys may have for me.

Vehicle is a 2006 Buick rainier, 5.3l, cammed, no cats. Using an aem wide band. I've noticed that it wants to go into open loop randomly, and I can't figure out why. Also, I'm now getting a bit of knock at lower rpms that I didn't notice before, I know I can take out timing, thought I already did that. Cold starts are hard, first try stumbles hard but second try always fires up. Cold air idle sucks, and I've tried adjusting start up air flow and cranking fuel, but I can't seem to get it right.
Thanks in advance

log and tune attached here

[blindsquirrel]

Post O2 Test & Catalyst Test are still enabled, and will do weird stuff in the background and screw you up while tuning. Also a half dozen or so DTCs left enabled that need to be turned off. I made the changes, in case you're on later Editor version that's had these emissions settings removed:
rainier oct13 - post O2 + cat test + DTCs.hpt

O2s are pegging out dead lean when it goes OL, dunno if that's cause or effect. Not impossible that it's related to the Post O2/Cat Test. OR, could be the next item...

You got your Open Loop & Open Loop Gains tables messed up - following a guide, I'm guessing? There are two different ways GM did these tables. 1.0 (open loop gear/pn) x 1.0 (IVT gain) = EQ 1.0. Or, what they did on a lot of the GMT360s for whatever reason, 10.0 x 0.1 = the same EQ 1.0. However, if you followed a guide that told you to (temporarily?) disable the OL tables by setting them to all 1.0's, that guide didn't account for the weird 10.0 x 0.1 vehicles. You need to go back and set all the Open Loop (Gear)/(P/N) tables to 10.0, not 1.0.

[bug]

Thanks blind squirrel. You are correct, I was following a guide from the tuning school. Interesting to know that gmt360 platform is the bastard child of gm calibrations. I'll reflash with your changes and then address the OL gain tables

[bug]

seems like i had some low throttle knock that i was concerned was from my tinkering with the spark tables. I took the adjustments and reset my spark tables to what the stock tables were, ran another log, getting some off throttle and low throttle knock. Took another 4* out of the entire table just to see if i could get the knock to go away and its still there. Any suggestions?

[kevin87turbot]

I noticed some knock retard in the datalog from the -4 spark tune. It's fairly common to see a couple degrees of KR in most applications. Sometimes it's the modified exhaust system, or noisy valvetrain, or vibration from broken or weak mounts. If it's caused by any of these things, it's just false KR.

What octane fuel are you using? If you increase the octane, do the KR go away? If it does, then it's real KR.

[blindsquirrel]

FYI, Engine > Torque Management > Spark Retard vs TQ Reduction being zeroed out is disabling all torque reduction everywhere, even on the transmission side, and turning that completely off will burn up a 4L60E. So you'll probably want to put that back the way it was.

[bug]

I noticed some knock retard in the datalog from the -4 spark tune. It's fairly common to see a couple degrees of KR in most applications. Sometimes it's the modified exhaust system, or noisy valvetrain, or vibration from broken or weak mounts. If it's caused by any of these things, it's just false KR.

What octane fuel are you using? If you increase the octane, do the KR go away? If it does, then it's real KR.

I'm using 93, but I've been filling up at a different station lately. I'll switch back and see if it's bad gas. Truck does have a catless full dual exhaust (stock manifolds), modified valve train, and old engine mounts

[bug]

FYI, Engine > Torque Management > Spark Retard vs TQ Reduction being zeroed out is disabling all torque reduction everywhere, even on the transmission side, and turning that completely off will burn up a 4L60E. So you'll probably want to put that back the way it was.

Is there a strategic way to set these percentages? The factory settings seem really conservative and this thing is actually fun to drive with all the torque management off lol

[blindsquirrel]

Retard vs TQR is a global setting, it's only called up by other tables. Put it back to stock. Engine-side TM is OK to turn off, trans-side off will smoke the trans. All it will do is pull timing for a few hundred milliseconds while the shift is happening, then return timing back to normal. If you really want to turn off trans TM the place to do that is Trans > TM > TQ Reduction Pattern X/Y/Z, don't recommend it though.

A long shift time (.475s) plus no (or minimal) tq reduction is just making heat and wear.