Tuning Help LM7 5.3 from 2000 Yukon into an F150

[Pilgrim]

Hello, I am seeking help with figuring out how to tune the fueling/injectors/spark for my shitbox. I spent two weeks looking at all kinds of tunes from other people on both the hp tuners and holly setups trying to figure out that I had to disable abusive mode under transmission settings on my P01 before I could go above 1600 rpms and found injector data for my injectors. My rig is a 1995 f150 2wd with an LM7 LS 5.3L and a M50d aluminum mazda trans. Short story begins here...

I bought a 4l80e because I was originally planning to boost it but ended up wanting to retain the stock look and build a dailyish driver. I bought an adapter for a ZF5 from Australia with the intent to put a zf5 in but the bolt patterns were the same as the m5od and after removing the cover and shifter and inspecting there was no visible wear inside on the gears and no slop on the input shaft bearing so I put that together with I believe it was 2003 corvette pressure plate and a solid flywheel with a performance friction disk for the m5od and stock master and slave cylinders(all new stuff of course from rockauto)(no grinding or weird shit happening or noises in 1st or 2nd in the yard). The engine I reused the crank after some minor cleaning and polishing, new bearing, sloppy stage 2 camshaft from jegs, new camshaft bearings, I traded a set of 862 heads for a set of 706 heads that were redone with new valves and seals with pac 1218 springs I had installed. I ended up replacing the bottom end parts, new oil pump, and the plunger oil redirect thing, new seals, new timing gears and chain, stock piston rods with ebay chinese knock off flat top pistons for a 4.8L and a set of molly rings gapped 20 top and 24 bottom. ( Not sure on the uh compression ratio would be nice to know). I have the fitech 50015 retro fuel kit 340 lph with all -6an line in a new front f150 fuel tank and retained the stock pump and fuel level for the stock dash. Engine is topped with the nbss or tbss drive by cable intake and a fitech 92mm throttle body (FIF-70061) and holly angle adapter to clear the mechanical fan(new fan clutch with a dorman 621-322 fan for i believe a 2003 chevy colorado?). I also have a secondary electric fan hooked up in front of the radiator if the engine ever went over 185 but doesnt right now(no thermostat didn't want to boil my engine first time around my first engine build)... but its cold outside still and the max I've seen this engine hit was 181. Any who back to the problem... I'm trying to make this a daily driver on 87 octane is my goal if possible. My shitbox is super lean, and it has deka siemens 80lb injectors(not ebay chinese crap), stock return less fuel rail that is 3/8's with the 3/8 an adapter and a fuel regulator bolted to the frame which runs at 58 psi. I ran it around the yard a little bit, it leans out according to my wideband when accelerating in the mid range and top end and de accelerating is well worse it seems. I cheated using PE a little bit once it tips in it jumps from 13-15 afr to like 11-12 but still has some rough spot where the engine isn't happy and jump up to 24 or off the gauge which isn't good. It also has this weird thing it does when de accelerating where the rpms come down slow which i guess isnt a big deal with a manual. I am going to add an extra 50 rpm into my idle rpm as it bogs pretty good right now in the cold. Exhaust is just a 3inch y pipe from the headers that comes together and dumps behind the back tire.(boy is it loud without the windows up, might need a muffler in the future. The popo dont like loud vehicles. Short story over...

I attached my logs and my tune from the last two times I went out and I was hoping someone might be able to look at them and touch them up or tell me if injector data is correct or wrong as everything is based off of that. I did some tinkering with the computer code mod to add in real time tuning but i don't think holding 5800 rpm is a good idea while adding fuel in but that's just my novice opinion. The timing I guessed on but it's not showing that its pulling any spark out in the log as far as I can tell infact it looks like its adding spark in or adding? The narrow band o2's show lean in the log and my wide band also... She's fat down low and lean uptop. I compared it to other peoples tunes tho and my main ve table values seem wayyyyy higher then other people and was wondering what I did wrong.

P.S: I set it up to do SD and my injectors are this model : 80LB 835CC FUEL INJECTORS EV1 FI114992
P.S.S: I forgot to mention it stumps accelerating until I assume PE is kicking in from 1-3k rpm.

issues4.hpl
issues5.hpl
newtuneworking3redo.hpt

[Pilgrim]

I searched around and found a couple of data sheets that I will try that I attached. The only questions I can't figure out are what the transient > min fuel milligrams should be? I set it to 0.014 with max tps of 3.01. The injector pulse limit I changed from 2.5 to 3.997 and enter the data from the sheets I found but im unsure if it is correct as it looks like its for a lower pressure of 43 psi instead of 58.

siemens deka 80 injectors.xls
Ford to GM Injector Data Conversion 80lbs Siemens Deka (1).xls
Siemens Deka 80lbs (1).hpt

[Pilgrim]

I went back thru after searching around the forums and made some changes to my tune. Skimmed thru the SD tuning section and went back and started from scratch used 1 bar for SD which gives me to 105 kpa. Lots of cranking before startup but its getting better. I'll attached what I have tune wise but haven't had time to do any logging yet with all the snow that came in.

newtuneworkingV5.hpt

[kevin87turbot]

You mentioned that your original plan was to boost it. Is that still part of the plan? If not, I'd sell the injectors and get some that are sized more appropriately for an NA build.

Have you verified the fuel pressure?
As you stated, the VE numbers are pretty high. I'd be curious to know if your fuel pressure is actually 58 psi.

One of the datalogs that you posted shows that you have a P0342 DTC. Have you addressed that issue?