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So what I'm getting at is, for the starting-fluid-cranks-no-start test to tell you if it's not starting because of too much fuel, you first have to get it into a condition where it's for sure not getting any fuel at all.
If you don't know if there is too much fuel hanging around in the intake, adding the starting fluid will just add more fuel and if there's too much fuel from the residual then adding more fuel with starting fluid answers exactly zero diagnostic yes/no questions.
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Tuner in Training
I was finally able to get it to stumble for a few seconds and then nothing after. I'll get a pop when cranking like it's trying to start but then nothing. I talked briefly with a local tuner and he said with the cam and the injectors that are in there, it will never run with the factory tables. I did adjust the fuel tables from a chart I found where someone else had already done the math. I've tried a few things from different people online with different results but never actually getting it to run. I'm not against having a local tuner get everything up and running, I just want to have a better understanding of what formulas to use and where when calculating the tables. My hope was to get it running before reaching out to a local to fine tune everything.
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Tuner
Pull fuel pump relay and try starting fluid. If it doesn't start, it's spark or cam timing
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Tuner in Training
I have the fuel pump on it's own switch. I am pretty sure at this point it is cam timing. I tried starter fluid with the same results. A quick pop for a few rotations and then nothing.