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Thread: o2 sensors car stuck in open loop was fine the day before

  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by GHuggins View Post
    Get the catch can sorted before your tuner goes any further. You can install the filter from the plate to the drivers valve cover then cap or run a hose from the plate to the catch can. If you go the hose from plate to catch can route just make sure your checking it by daily to min weekly to see how much is accumulating.

    Mighty mouse has a built in check valve venting to atmosphere and will hold a better volume. I prefer their setups over nearly all others out there but they can make idle tuning harder.
    Ok thank you. So take the filter that's currently on the valley plate and place it on the driver side valve cover. Then I'll cap the valley plate barb. The passenger side valve cover should remain plumbed into the catch can with check valve going to the intake manifold correct?

  2. #22
    Tuning Addict blindsquirrel's Avatar
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    If the MAF is there, you cannot let the engine eat any air that hasn't been counted by the MAF. That means no open vent hoses or filters letting fresh air into the crankcase, whether it's going into the valley plate or the valve cover. Unmetered air will skew the datalogs you're using for the remote tune.

    Get rid of the MAF altogether. Split the MAF harness and use a standalone IAT sensor. Get rid of any part of the intake tubing before the turbo that's smaller than 4". Fix these things now before you get a bunch of time/money invested in finalizing a tune, because fixing them later will make you have to start all over again.

  3. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by blindsquirrel View Post
    If the MAF is there, you cannot let the engine eat any air that hasn't been counted by the MAF. That means no open vent hoses or filters letting fresh air into the crankcase, whether it's going into the valley plate or the valve cover. Unmetered air will skew the datalogs you're using for the remote tune.

    Get rid of the MAF altogether. Split the MAF harness and use a standalone IAT sensor. Get rid of any part of the intake tubing before the turbo that's smaller than 4". Fix these things now before you get a bunch of time/money invested in finalizing a tune, because fixing them later will make you have to start all over again.
    I have no intake tubing just a 4" turbo guard on the turbo, no room to run any sort of intake pipe. the 3" and 3.5" sections are my intercooler pipes post turbo. Can the maf sensor not be used just to measure iat since it already does this right or does failing it completely render it useless? At this point is my only quick option to just run open filters on the valve covers and cap the intake manifold barb?

  4. #24
    Tuning Addict blindsquirrel's Avatar
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    Pick up a generic LS1 IAT sensor and pigtail. Those are 0-100k ohm, pretty sure your later model will be set up for a 0-50k ohm IAT. Not a big deal, the axis is editable, simply plug in values from an older file. And it really needs to be located in the post-turbo piping so it can measure the temperature of the air that enters the engine. Measuring ambient air at some random spot under the hood that's entering the turbo isn't the temp it needs to know.

    If you are not using the MAF for fueling it doesn't matter if the fresh air hose is breathing unmetered air, because without a MAF it's ALL unmetered and won't cause a problem. Back-and-forth confusion like this is why it's important to have an up to date tune file to look at that contains the settings being used when the problem/issue is happening. Makes it easier to help you. I am pretty much having to guess, I don't even know if you are still chasing down the runs-rich issue. Don't have a clue what problem I'm trying to help you solve, so much has been changed. Or has it? I dunno.

  5. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by blindsquirrel View Post
    Pick up a generic LS1 IAT sensor and pigtail. Those are 0-100k ohm, pretty sure your later model will be set up for a 0-50k ohm IAT. Not a big deal, the axis is editable, simply plug in values from an older file. And it really needs to be located in the post-turbo piping so it can measure the temperature of the air that enters the engine. Measuring ambient air at some random spot under the hood that's entering the turbo isn't the temp it needs to know.

    If you are not using the MAF for fueling it doesn't matter if the fresh air hose is breathing unmetered air, because without a MAF it's ALL unmetered and won't cause a problem. Back-and-forth confusion like this is why it's important to have an up to date tune file to look at that contains the settings being used when the problem/issue is happening. Makes it easier to help you. I am pretty much having to guess, I don't even know if you are still chasing down the runs-rich issue. Don't have a clue what problem I'm trying to help you solve, so much has been changed. Or has it? I dunno.
    Ok yea I have used the GM iat before on my eclipse gsx running speed denisty. Slowly but surely this thing will be road ready, thank you appreciate the help.

    I just solved my catch can issue. I put both valve covers connected with 3/8 hose then used a oil fill cap with 10an line going to vented catch can.
    IMG_20211221_230940011.jpg

  6. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by blindsquirrel View Post
    I don't even know if you are still chasing down the runs-rich issue. Don't have a clue what problem I'm trying to help you solve, so much has been changed. Or has it? I dunno.

    Lmao you are totally right, sorry I'm all over the place with this thing. Trying to multitask so many things at once haha. Everyone's comments all helped a ton, the baseline tune is pretty well setup now. My fuel pressure starts dropping off above 5k RPM so I need to stay under that. I am able to adjust slightly on the fuel pressure control model but it's way to late and the roads are to wet to go out again.

    https://youtube.com/shorts/4f1hu_vFinI?feature=share

  7. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by blindsquirrel View Post
    If the MAF is there, you cannot let the engine eat any air that hasn't been counted by the MAF. That means no open vent hoses or filters letting fresh air into the crankcase, whether it's going into the valley plate or the valve cover. Unmetered air will skew the datalogs you're using for the remote tune.

    Get rid of the MAF altogether. Split the MAF harness and use a standalone IAT sensor. Get rid of any part of the intake tubing before the turbo that's smaller than 4". Fix these things now before you get a bunch of time/money invested in finalizing a tune, because fixing them later will make you have to start all over again.
    It was changed to SD, so doesn't matter on the valve cover filter... Besides catch can systems do the filter unmetered air thing straight from their companies. Not a big deal as long as the tune is fully corrected for it...
    2010 Vette Stock Bottom LS3 - LS2 APS Twin Turbo Kit, Trick Flow Heads and Custom Cam - 12psi - 714rwhp and 820rwtq / 100hp Nitrous Shot starting at 3000 rpms - 948rwhp and 1044rwtq still on 93
    2011 Vette Cam Only Internal Mod in stock LS3 -- YSI @ 18psi - 811rwhp on 93 / 926rwhp on E60 & 1008rwhp with a 50 shot of nitrous all through a 6L80

    ~Greg Huggins~
    Remote Tuning Available at gh[email protected]
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  8. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by GHuggins View Post
    It was changed to SD, so doesn't matter on the valve cover filter... Besides catch can systems do the filter unmetered air thing straight from their companies. Not a big deal as long as the tune is fully corrected for it...
    Got my zl1 map sensor installed and just did a puke tank style catch can for the valve covers. Car runs good boost hard would smoke a stock zl1 no problem, going to have to get an aux pump though. duty cycle on the zl1 pump was bumped up to 97% above 5500 RPM fuel pressure started dropping. Everything is all good now o2 sensors were also not the problem like everyone said installed the stock ones and they function just fine now.

    appreciate everyone's help!