help 2011 camaro L99 with 6l80 trans standalone in hot rod
it came from a 2011 Camaro that had the VVT removed with cam and trans work with tq converter its all standalone it will start but not run. all the normal stuff have been checked. for some reason there is around 50 to 60 psi for fuel pressure at the rail. it has been tuned before crashed by someone else.
question 2 it reads on the VCM scanner tell I try to start then it all shows no data????
Is the VATS disabled? Post the tune file so we can take a look
yes the vats is disabled but it like its not starts and shuts off
Why does the tune have data for a 2 bar MAP sensor if it's not supercharged or turbo charged??
Why did someone install the 2 bar OS to this computer??
This is why it will not start. The MAP data is going to be wrong and the 3 new VE tables are completely blank. With blank data means no fuel and no start.
If you installed that 2 bar OS upgrade that was in the OS tab, stop what you are doing and go back to the tune prior to this. You will have to do a write entire back to the previous file and try again.
Also the VVT is still active in that tune. The variable camshaft setting still says "one" meaning it thinks it has a VVT camshaft.
Pray for that transmission too. They do not like it when nearly all the torque management is disabled. You may want to rethink those settings.
2016 Silverado CCSB 5.3/6L80e, not as slow but still heavy.
If you don't post your tune and logs when you have questions you aren't helping yourself.
Check to make sure your ignition voltage to ECM is staying consistent and over 10volts when going to the start position and back to ignition. Have seen many issues with older ignition switches and the loss of voltage during key transitions. Try finding the ignition feed to the ECU harness remove it from its source and installing a simple switch directly to battery and retest. I would like to see a key on engine off log to see what the MAP sensor is saying. Looking at the tune file I would have done some things different but without knowing the specifics in parts used it is hard to say.
Did not see 5FDP response, take what he says as gold. He is a rock star to many here.
Last edited by MakesBadDecisions; 12-29-2020 at 05:18 PM.
2017 Crew Short 4x4 - 575hp/581trq at the tire
2017 C7 GS 3LT - All stock for now, waiting impatiently for shop time to install parts
thanks im trying to get my feet wet in the tuning world but i think this one was not right. let me try that will let you know
went back to my first tune with the cam changed no go starts and shuts back off
Has it ever run since the swap?
If you don't have the wiring right from ignition switch to ECM, changing the tune won't make it run. Describe the switch - how many terminals? What's connected to where? Sure you have power on the 'run' pins when the switch is in the 'crank' position?
no i bought a reputable harness for the standalone i didnt build one my self but my thought its something with the wiring. im going threw it now
i have it all direct connect not ignition per say im using right off the battery
Last edited by 1956 Tri Five; 12-30-2020 at 04:04 PM.
i think you are correct about the wiring. i think it something with the power so when it starts if i hit the starter again quickly (well grinding my starter) it will keep running. so now i need to find what's no getting power during the start
it a HPI wiring harness if that helps
Last edited by 1956 Tri Five; 12-30-2020 at 04:59 PM.
Post the tune from the ECM and TCM before you made any changes.
Do you know what cam and convertor are in the vehicle?
What is the part number of the MAP sensor?
Is the drive train fully installed? Driveline installed? Exhaust built? Wiring complete? Intake with correct MAF placement complete? How big
Or are you too excited and cant wait and just want to hear it run? This is fine but, just a question. Been there and fought many issues only to finish install and double check everything and boom issues gone and headache resolved.
It would be helpful if you were more specific with parts and current condition.
2017 Crew Short 4x4 - 575hp/581trq at the tire
2017 C7 GS 3LT - All stock for now, waiting impatiently for shop time to install parts
thanks
unfortunately it was a wrecked 2011 Camaro so not sure what was done. when we pulled motor and trans out i see the VVT was removed (not sure what size the cam is) and it has a full billet TQ converter from circle d and the internals of the trans has been opened.( not sure what was done) tune was done i removed VATS. the tune is posted at the top original tune
i see the tune is not good but i think it losing connection with the computer during cranking. im texting the person at HPI but i think they just buy the wiring harness. its interesting how other companies ask what car, pedal, mas, o2 for the harness. with this on i had to get new o2s and change to truck pedal. i have gone threw all the instructions everything checks ok. But when it starts it dyes right away. now during that start i have fuel pressure and spark so it must be something with the ECU
when it runs i can pull off the front cover to see if i can get the cam size. drive shaft is not installed, it has full exhaust with headers, stander Camaro maf, wiring is complete for engine (not car) trying to get running so it will move on it own power. but yes its always exciding every time i start new project. that's why we are all car or truck people lol
Last edited by 1956 Tri Five; 12-31-2020 at 08:33 AM.
Are you using the original ignition key cylinder in the 1956 dash to activate the ignition circuits, and to crank (activate the starter) over the engine ?
I have done several LS / LT conversions with these platforms (1955 to 1957 Chev), and the original ignition key cylinder is often an issue. Two things seem to occur.
The first possible issue is that when the key is turned to the crank position, some of the vehicle circuits see a temporary voltage decrease - until the key is released from the crank position. If this is happening to the ECM power circuits, the ECM will sometimes fire the ignition coils as soon as the key is released from the crank position (i.e. when the voltage is once again increased). I had one that would start a fraction of a second after the key was released from the crank position.
The second possible issue is a worn out ignition key cylinder - which only magnifies the first issue discussed above. I had one where if you turned the key fully to the crank position it would not start - but if you turned the key just enough to activate the starter (not fully clockwise) it would start.
To eliminate such variables, you could temporarily wire the ECM and TCM battery voltage circuits through a standalone switch or directly to the battery. Likewise, you could temporarily wire the ECM and TCM ignition voltage circuits through a standalone switch.
Activate ECM and TCM battery voltage - then wait at least 15 seconds. Then activate ECM and TCM ignition voltage - and wait at least another 15 seconds. Then try cranking the engine.
If the engine starts, then you know for certain that the problem was with the wiring and / or ignition key cylinder.
The pedal swap concerns me. Does anybody know for sure if the Camaro OS will be happy just having a truck pedal plugged in? There are certain electronic throttle faults that will prevent the engine from running.
Originally Posted by blindsquirrel
Excellent point - good catch on the APP (pedal) being from a Truck - I completely missed that comment in post #13.
The APP connector is the same between the Camaro and Truck platforms - but is wired (pinned) differently.
Electronically, the Camaro APP and Truck APP are similar, but not the same. I always recommend using platform correct (matched) components and corresponding ECM programming.
Agree with blindsquirrel and Jon, that pedal difference is a potential issue. Although in the past we have had mismatch pedal vs OS and engine would run, just no pedal to TB operation with related codes set. While maybe we got lucky on it running and being able to swap pins around to make it work, I felt like it was never 100% right and therefore safe as it required killing some of the tests and codes. We will ONLY use matching pedal and OS and will not kill codes that could potentially cause liability issues. I personally use a 2013 Grand Sport OS, ECM, pedal and harness for all of our E38 based swaps. Love making tap shift work in things that it shouldn't, from rock crawlers to hot rods and all the swaps in between.
In our swaps and conversions we use a time based relay wired to appropriate power and grounds to help negate the key switch issues. Set the timer to 1 second and go from there, the slight delay on key off is barely noticeable, you still need a properly functioning key cylinder, switch and connector. You then provide all the voltage delicate systems with clean and stable voltage. We do this even for the aftermarket EFI system installs as those are even more sensitive to voltage during cranking, RF noise and improper system powers and grounds.
I wouldn't worry so much at this point about the parts installed as these engines will almost run most parts swaps with a stock tune, obviously there a line where they wont. Even if you have to pedal it to start and idle they will almost always start and idle. I get random stuff from random installers and parts suppliers often and even the more common "I bought it this way and I have no idea whats in it". We always start from a 100% stock tune and use experience along with proper scanner data to make changes to what the engine wants and needs.
I assume the battery is grounded to the chassis and engine block properly and the grounds for the ECM/TCM harness are tightened down in the back of the head. If this were me I would find the ignition and battery feeds for the ECM/TCM harness and remove then from their connections. Connect the battery feed direct to battery and use a simple rocker switch from the battery to the ECM/TCM igntion feed wire, typically Pink. From there verify that the switch is turning on the ECM/TCM using the scanner, verify MAP sensor is reading BARO for your area, verify fuel pressure at the same time. Obviously key on will prime the pump and then pump shuts off after a set time, may take a couple of key cycles. Once ECM/TCM is reading in the scanner and the rest is verified. I would then flash the ECM and TCM with a full factory reflash. Pull that out and make the VATS and codes changes and full flash that. Then make a cal flash file, add 250 RPM to start up and base idle RPM tables, set MAF only, add 4 grams to startup and BRAF tables, half all the idle spark correction tables, turn off necessary codes for a swap (ie EVAP, downstream O2, ETC), make fan changes for type and amount, set gear ratio and tire height using the editor and cal flash that. Then see what happens. Yes time consuming but at this point time spent to rule out the often simplest things typically returns good results.
2017 Crew Short 4x4 - 575hp/581trq at the tire
2017 C7 GS 3LT - All stock for now, waiting impatiently for shop time to install parts
ok to start thanks for the help what i found is that did a injector pulse with noid lite set it stops pulsing after start. will run on starter flued. any thought's!!!!! i have gone threw and checked the vats is removed in less there is more that im missing. i have done about 6 of the ls swaps and this is the most problem's i have had.
i want to try new wiring harness is the only deafferents
The only two VATS/Starter stuff left is the starter fault check in the OS tab and code P1631 for VATS. In the most recent tune those are still on.
A log file would be helpful too.
2016 Silverado CCSB 5.3/6L80e, not as slow but still heavy.
If you don't post your tune and logs when you have questions you aren't helping yourself.
nope i removed it still didn't work cant give a log file as soon as it starts log go's to zeros hp tuners as far as i know now standalone log yet i sent it out the other day
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