LC-1 grounding issue

[PurplePiss]

I just got my LC-1 back from being repaired. Hooked it up, turned it on without the O2 sensor plugged in. Key off, plug in sensor, key on, blink blink... It does this for 2 minutes. I'm like WTF. I finally turn it off and start thinking.

If you hook the LC-1 up per Sound Engineers diagram, the LC-1 Analog ground is not there for it if the HPT MPVI Pro is not plugged into the DTC connector. Once I plugged it in, the LC-1 finished the warmup and calibration immediately. Maybe its because the O2 sensor is hanging in mid air and not grounded? I seriously think it has to do with the DTC connector. Just to make sure I have it hooked up right.

Red - +12 switched on the key
Blue - Grounded to the block
White, green, and black are all tied together and grounded to Pin 5 on the MPVI. The LED is spliced inline between pin 5 and the black coming from the LC-1. The button is splice on either side of the led. (maybe this is where I'm wrong?)
Yellow - not hooked up
Brown - Pin 1 on the MPVI

So to reiterate, the MPVI only has something connected on pin 1 and 5.

Is that right? If that's correct, then the LC-1 analog ground is not connected unless the MPVI is plugged into the DTC.

[dc96819]

The button switch is across the LED.
uploader dont work at night,try this
http://www2.propichosting.com/Images/126145/4.bmp
Sometimes my LED keeps blinking so i reset the 12v and it works.

[PurplePiss]

I believe I have it hooked up that way except I am not running the LC-1 as a NB, so I have the blue wire grounded to the block and the +12 comes from the fuse box and comes on with the key.

[PurplePiss]

Can anyone comment on this? Do I have it hooked up right and do you think I'm right that you would need to have the MPVI plugged into the DTC to provide the ground for the LC-1?

THanks

[PurplePiss]

Bueller..... Bueller..... anyone?

[MrXerox]

Why not just get a cig lighter adapter from Radio shack and grab your +12v and Heater Ground from there? Or, get you an old bad 02 sensor and cut the connector off of it and use its +12 and Heater GND per that diagram up there?

[Sp00ner]

Is that right? If that's correct, then the LC-1 analog ground is not connected unless the MPVI is plugged into the DTC.

Don't you have the 'bundle' of ground wires grounded to something when the MPVI isn't in the car? I have all the ground wires attached to a single 'common groud wire'. Which goes in #5 of the MPVI when it's in the car, and to the chassis ground when it's not. The analog ground is part of that bundle...

[PurplePiss]

hmm.. Power ground for the WB sensor is different than Analog ground for the LC-1 itself correct? I thought the bundle of wires is getting its ground through the DTC connector, through the MPVI and the heater ground goes to the block. So your saying you have the bundle grounded to chassis ground and the heater ground goes to the chassis ground located somewhere else or the same place?

[S2H]

Why not just get a cig lighter adapter from Radio shack and grab your +12v and Heater Ground from there? Or, get you an old bad 02 sensor and cut the connector off of it and use its +12 and Heater GND per that diagram up there?

the GTO's do some funky things with the O2's and you cant use power from it or you will fry the LC1....

I just got my LC-1 back from being repaired. Hooked it up, turned it on without the O2 sensor plugged in. Key off, plug in sensor, key on, blink blink... It does this for 2 minutes. I'm like WTF. I finally turn it off and start thinking.

If you hook the LC-1 up per Sound Engineers diagram, the LC-1 Analog ground is not there for it if the HPT MPVI Pro is not plugged into the DTC connector. Once I plugged it in, the LC-1 finished the warmup and calibration immediately. Maybe its because the O2 sensor is hanging in mid air and not grounded? I seriously think it has to do with the DTC connector. Just to make sure I have it hooked up right.

Red - +12 switched on the key
Blue - Grounded to the block
White, green, and black are all tied together and grounded to Pin 5 on the MPVI. The LED is spliced inline between pin 5 and the black coming from the LC-1. The button is splice on either side of the led. (maybe this is where I'm wrong?)
Yellow - not hooked up
Brown - Pin 1 on the MPVI

So to reiterate, the MPVI only has something connected on pin 1 and 5.

Is that right? If that's correct, then the LC-1 analog ground is not connected unless the MPVI is plugged into the DTC.

you have it hooked up correctly
ot sure about your LED and button...but you can take them out to verify that the LC1 is working correctly

My diagram
http://www.audiohelix.com/tuning-documents/lc1/lc1.htm

also it should make more sense on how the LED and calibraion button should be wired in with My diagram

[PurplePiss]

So you feel it is ok for the LC-1 to be powered up and get its ground through the heater ground? Because if you hook it up per your diagram, the ground isn't there if the MPVI isn't plugged into the DTC connector. Am I wrong? I'm not using the LC-1 as a nb, does that make a differeance?

For now, i am plugging in the DTC before starting the car, just to be safe. I would also like to know if it would be possible to switch power for the MPVI so I can leave it plugged into the DTC? Its a pain to keep unplugging it.

I'm just concerned I have it hooked up wrong because Innovate wouldn't tell me what was wrong with the unit. They didn't open it, which means it was software I guess?

[S2H]

it doesnt matter if you hook up analog ground(green) or reference ground(white) or the calibration wire(black)
you only need those for data logging...nothing more..which only happens when you hok up the OBD2 connector....so if you arent data logging then you dont need those wires...

all that the LC1 needs to work propery is Heater power(red) and heater ground(blue) and heater ground should go to a chassis ground...

and then make sure yoru analog outputs dont short out against anything..

Innovate has had several revisions to the LC1...so they may have just decided to send you a new revision anyways as its possibly easier and more cost effective than trying to repair them...

[PurplePiss]

I got the same exact LC-1 back and they wouldn't tell me what was wrong with it or if i did anything wrong. When I sent it back, it wouldn't calibrate 2 different WB O2's, one being new. Somehow they fixed it without openning the case. It does work now granted. So if the LC-1 is powered and the WB has a ground, the WBO2 heats up and works normal. But doesn't the communications side of the LC-1 need a ground while its on which it would normall get through the other wires.

What do you think could have gone wrong that they could have fixed without opening it?

[S2H]

no...teh communications side doesnt matter for the LC1 to work...
all you need is heater power and heater ground....

I run around with a wideband permanently in my exhaust...and dont log half the time....

all that remains connected is heater power and heater ground...nothing else...
works perfect...
and when I need to log I plug in the OBD cable and I log with no problems....

[PurplePiss]

Thanks Scott. Your so good at this it makes me want to scream.