6R80 with performance clutches and billet intermediate shaft

[txcharlie]

I rebuilt my 6R80 trans with Exedy clutches and a billet shaft in preparation for using a transbrake. The car already had a 3200 stall converter before the build and it acted as it should. After the build, not only did the converter get much tighter than before, it was tighter than it was when it was stock. I had it checked out by a trans shop that was familiar with the 6R80 and with modding it for performance and durability. They found no issues with my work and so I did more research and found another 6R80 that was doing the exact thing mine was and the issue turned out to be the lead frame.
So, I replaced the lead frame and it does seem a little looser, but not like it was before the build.
I received a reply to one of my threads on the issue and they mentioned that they were told, by a fairly reputable tuner, that the tune needed to be modified after a build. I'm aware of the need to make a few changes for the stall converter, which I already did, but are there other areas that should be addressed after a performance build?

[veeefour]

Maybe you had a leak before and only now it's working properly? Been there done that.

[wbt]

I rebuilt my 6R80 trans with Exedy clutches and a billet shaft in preparation for using a transbrake. The car already had a 3200 stall converter before the build and it acted as it should. After the build, not only did the converter get much tighter than before, it was tighter than it was when it was stock. I had it checked out by a trans shop that was familiar with the 6R80 and with modding it for performance and durability. They found no issues with my work and so I did more research and found another 6R80 that was doing the exact thing mine was and the issue turned out to be the lead frame.
So, I replaced the lead frame and it does seem a little looser, but not like it was before the build.
I received a reply to one of my threads on the issue and they mentioned that they were told, by a fairly reputable tuner, that the tune needed to be modified after a build. I'm aware of the need to make a few changes for the stall converter, which I already did, but are there other areas that should be addressed after a performance build?

Doesn't make much sense. I tune a single turbo car that had the same thing done due to a broken intermediate shaft and it was better after the rebuild vs. before. Something mechanical is going on. Converter shouldn't behave differently after a trans rebuild. It is separate.

I am guessing no other changes to the car?

[Jn2]

only things i've had customer complains about when doing convertor swaps is firmer 1>2 or 2>3 shifts are firmer than stock during low load driving, like the shift has more pressure behind even though nothing in the tune has changed before the convertor. During WOT they run great and every gear change is as expected

[txcharlie]

Maybe you had a leak before and only now it's working properly? Been there done that.

No issues before the build.

[txcharlie]

Doesn't make much sense. I tune a single turbo car that had the same thing done due to a broken intermediate shaft and it was better after the rebuild vs. before. Something mechanical is going on. Converter shouldn't behave differently after a trans rebuild. It is separate.

I am guessing no other changes to the car?

The lead frame is the only electrical component in the trans, so it can effect the amount of pressure applied to the different passages, via the solenoids. There are no issues with the mechanical components of the trans. I'm putting the exhaust back on now. I haven't done a actual road test yet. I only did a foot brake test, as the entire exhaust is removed. I saw the post come up about needing a tune after upgrading the clutches and shaft, so I wanted to get some input from you guys since that was the first time I had ever heard of that. It didn't make any sense to me, but I don't know everything....but you guys do.

[txcharlie]

only things i've had customer complains about when doing convertor swaps is firmer 1>2 or 2>3 shifts are firmer than stock during low load driving, like the shift has more pressure behind even though nothing in the tune has changed before the convertor. During WOT they run great and every gear change is as expected

I knew something wasn't right, after the build, because the converter would lock while manually holding the gear with the shifter and rolling into the throttle. When I let it shift automatically, it would lock the converter after each shift, almost immediately. I always seems to get the weird ass problems that no one else has ever seen.