To make sure the O2s were not crossed. You should disable all the codes for the things you are not using. And why all the transmission codes?
To make sure the O2s were not crossed. You should disable all the codes for the things you are not using. And why all the transmission codes?
Thanks.
The 4L60 in sitting in my dining room waiting for the rebuild parts but that's for another thread or forum.
And while I am thinking about it, should the torque converter be installed for these preliminary logs?
Last edited by 243; 09-17-2018 at 01:07 PM.
2010 2500HD 4x4 6.0 Stock
1978 Cherokee w/ 2004 L59, 4L60, NP241C Swap in Progress
You gotta be kidding me. Why don't you wait until you have everything ready, mounted, wired and ready to run do the road.
Good question. To be honest I could stop now because I verified even though much was trial and error, there are no major mechanical issues, my initial re-flash was successful, the new rear main seal is not leaking and the compression is good.
I am not trying to tune and I thought I had communicated that in my first post.
A WB is on my buy list and I bought my third tuning guide and started reading during my lunch hour.
2010 2500HD 4x4 6.0 Stock
1978 Cherokee w/ 2004 L59, 4L60, NP241C Swap in Progress
This. Stop trying to make it run until it"s complete.Originally Posted by DrLoch
That is funny as hell, given that engines and transmissions are dyno tested before market, electrical harnesses, circuit boards are pre-tested, and in the construction sector, diesel engine generators and vav boxes are pre-tested before delivery to our jobsites prior to installation and again after installation.
I said the engine was in a chassis in my garage, it would have been nice had you told me after my first post or never responded but instead, ya'll tried to bust my balls.
I will pre-test what the fk I want for my comfort because it's my money, my time and my effort.
I came to the HPT site because I bought HPT equipment, I sure as fk did not join to get kicked in the balls for asking questions.
2010 2500HD 4x4 6.0 Stock
1978 Cherokee w/ 2004 L59, 4L60, NP241C Swap in Progress
It's always good to rant and throw a tantrum when asking for help. And kicked in the balls? You should really try to grow a thicker skin.
That is too funny, grinning then, grinning now...
2010 2500HD 4x4 6.0 Stock
1978 Cherokee w/ 2004 L59, 4L60, NP241C Swap in Progress
Wow that's gonna get you a lot of help.
Telling me to stop working on the engine is not helpful, and that is exactly what you stated (grin)
2010 2500HD 4x4 6.0 Stock
1978 Cherokee w/ 2004 L59, 4L60, NP241C Swap in Progress
You need to understand that on OBD2 closed loop systems some things don't work as designed until everything is buttoned up and complete. But have at it and do it the way you want.
Noted, thanks.
2010 2500HD 4x4 6.0 Stock
1978 Cherokee w/ 2004 L59, 4L60, NP241C Swap in Progress
No you need to work on THE ENGINE and stop on the calibration. You are going to run in circles if your O2s cannot get a proper reading of the exhaust oxygen content.
I already explained that O2s will not read properly stock or wideband sitting a few inches from the end of the exhaust pipe. Reversion causes fresh air to suck in between pulses causing the O2s to read lean. Higher rpms has enough exhaust gas flowing in one direction to stop that, but definitely not at idle.
Regarding it being stock? No its not as soon as you are running a totally modified exhaust system. You go ahead and act like you know what youre doing, but you are going to get absolutely nowhere with how you have things setup.
Noted, thanks.
2010 2500HD 4x4 6.0 Stock
1978 Cherokee w/ 2004 L59, 4L60, NP241C Swap in Progress
O2 sensor only works when there are no exhaust leaks
a huge hole a couple inches away from the sensor is a 'leak'
a huge hole a few feet away is maybe far enough that air from outside cannot get into the exhaust far enough to reach the sensor. But a few feet is is still a question mark.
You might be surprised how far up the air from outside can be sucked up into an exhaust system on a running engine.
When you set out to test the engine, you do not use narrowband O2 sensor. It was a waste of time to fool with narrowbands at all IMO. I think that is why everyone is annoyed.
The narrowbands are just about the last thing you enable on an engine, after everything else is finished, if you even have them. I've almost never used a narrowband sensor(s) for 15 years. It isn't even desirable once you learn to tune because 14.7:1 being stuck there is stupid, purely for emissions and not desirable.
finally here is my simple diag
you ran the engine in a rich state for too long (closed loop with poor O2 info) and fouled the plugs so now it misfires.
Heres the cure: disable closed loop. Unplug the narrowbands. and put new plugs in. Walaa
Also 1 piece of advice: it REALLY helps if you post pictures of the setup. Not only will people respond more friendly (because it gets more personal I think) they will also be able to diagnose better because L@@King at a setup can often lead to many suggestions that nobody would have seen.
Last edited by kingtal0n; 09-19-2018 at 09:55 PM.
Noted, pictures attached...nothing fancy here, just a poor fk' trying to have fun with an old POS Jeep, thanks.
2010 2500HD 4x4 6.0 Stock
1978 Cherokee w/ 2004 L59, 4L60, NP241C Swap in Progress
The Jeep, '78...chassis in the garage is I believe an '85 Grand, I needed a centered rear D44 so I bought and parted out the Grand for the rolling chassis.
2010 2500HD 4x4 6.0 Stock
1978 Cherokee w/ 2004 L59, 4L60, NP241C Swap in Progress
You know it runs, finish the truck and then try to diagnose shit. You want to tune it now? Put it on an engine dyno with a few feet of exhaust on it and have at it. I already know you fouled the plugs and if you keep at it like this, youre gotta wash out the cylinders and hurt the motor. This isnt a diesel generator at the work site, this is an emission compliant vehicle powertrain and it requires a more complete setup than you have.
Your attitude hasnt helped in the least and if you dont get out of your head that there must be something wrong that you havent induced, youre a lost cause. Finish the install as it would be driven and THEN fire it up, this isnt a carb'd motor that runs in perpetual open loop although it sounds like you think it should run like one.
Those pictures are amazing, thanks for sharing. It looks like you have a Loooooooooonnnngggg way to go.
I'd suggest:
1. clean everything up and put the vehicle together, don't worry about the tuning yet.
2. make sure all wiring is solder +heat shrink or better (machine crimps are used sometimes) so it can be pulled on without any wires breaking
3. change the engine oil to get rid of the fuel contamination if you smell fuel in the oil
As far as the engine health is concerned,
It is pretty standard practice to compression test, leakdown test (if necessary) and finally a thorough inspection (which you have done).
Once you see good compression and inspection there isn't anything else you can do mechanically (there isn't anything wrong with the engine that you could possibly tell) and going inside it more usually does more harm than good. The good compression test means when fuel and spark is added it will run fine. If something is mechanically wrong it would make serious noise when turning over usually or show poor oil pressure. It would be extremely odd if the engine made no mechanical noises (you need a quiet exhaust system at least initially to hear mechanical noise when running but cranking is usually revealing also, take the plugs out and with them in also) and shows good oil pressure, had good compression, but something was wrong with it.
Matty- why you so mad? I <3 you as a friendCheer up
I think the poor fellow is merely interested in finding all the issues such as oil leaks before he puts the vehicle around it and it becomes difficult to access.
The only misconception I see so far in his process is that he thought narrowbands need to be utilized first, when they should be done last as a finishing touch once the whole computer is setup in every other way.
Last edited by kingtal0n; 09-20-2018 at 12:20 AM.
If I was mad, it would be obvious, annoyed? Yes.Matty- why you so mad? I <3 you as a friend
I think the poor fellow is merely interested in finding all the issues such as oil leaks before he puts the vehicle around it and it becomes difficult to access.
The only misconception I see so far in his process is that he thought narrowbands need to be utilized first, when they should be done last as a finishing touch once the whole computer is setup in every other way.
We are on a second page where he was told to stop and finish the install a few posts in. He says hes not trying to tune yet is posting logs about screwed up fuel trims and disregarding what was told to him.
Im not the only one that said finish the install so Im gonna leave it at that. If he wants to foul plugs, wash out cylinders and waste gas he can, as he said "Its my money".
No more assistance is needed right now, he has a few months of actually building the truck and hopefully he puts an exhaust on it before coming back asking for help.
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