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Thread: 5.3L with sloppy stage 2 cam

  1. #1
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    5.3L with sloppy stage 2 cam

    would anyone happen to have a base tune for an 03 5.3 with a sloppy stage 2 cam (228/230). has stock injectors. th350, drive by wire.

    I have been trying for over 2 weeks to get it to idle without stalling when its up to temp with no luck.
    I have attached my current tune and a data log if anyone sees something wrong that would cause this. I am very new to hptuners.

    thanks
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  2. #2
    Tuning Addict 5FDP's Avatar
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    Fix the airflow model first. You will just run yourself in circles if you try to dial the idle in when the whole airflow model and fueling isn't even right yet.

    Look at those fuel trims, one bank is +18-22 and the other is pegged at +25. Either you have a vacuum leak or a really bad exhaust leak prior/directly after the o2 sensors. Or the camshaft threw the MAF/VE that far off but that seems unlikely if everything else is stock.

    Verify fuel pressure is at 58psi and check for leaks first. Get yourself a wideband so you can fix the MAF and VE tables. Then once those are much better the fueling is corrected getting the idle to behave will be much easier.
    2016 Silverado CCSB 5.3/6L80e, not as slow but still heavy.

    If you don't post your tune and logs when you have questions you aren't helping yourself.

  3. #3
    The VE table is showing some excessively rich #'s... Like 5F says-fix the VE table first, then MAF, then base running airflow. I did not see a W/B in the log. Do you have a W/B? If not, you can still tune it, but it is so much faster with the W/B. Also, have you seen this thread: https://forum.hptuners.com/showthrea...e-(w-pictures) It will lay it all out for you and get you going.

  4. #4
    Cut your Raf table by 2 g/sec in the idle airflow table until it will idle. i have a 228/230 cam and my running airflow is way less than stock. also if you don't find an exhaust leak check your O2 sensor wiring to make sure it is good. mine did the same on the fuel trims with a bad ground wire on the passenger side of the engine. heres my current tune you can scavenge it for what you need. its a lq9 so the ve might be a little high for you 5.3 and i'm running 44lb injectors but the airflow and timing are spot on its also a manual trans so it should work with your th350.
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  5. #5
    Jake, like you I'm running a LQ9, but I have a very mild cam 220/224 and my RAF #'s are in the 7's in the 190 degree range. My truck starts, idles, runs perfectly with no idle or driveability issues. My truck will NOT start/idle with RAF #'s less than 7 though. I've run the Russ K idle config many, many, times, and have never had #'s lower than 7's. Also, my VE #'s are lower than yours in all of the lower ranges. I'm 10 #'s lower than your VE table in the idle range. My truck idles at 650 (800 range on the table) with a "51" in the 50 KPA cell-which is where my truck idles. Interesting that your cam with more duration will idle with less RAF. Could it be because your throttle blade on your TB has been opened up thereby giving it more air through the TB, and then the IAC needs to allow less air in? What are your IAC counts at operating temp, with the engine idling?

  6. #6
    Forgot to mention I live at 7200 feet above see level the air is pretty thick up here that's probably the reason I run less air and more fuel. I dialed mine in with the RussK idle config also.

  7. #7
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    in for updates. i've got a 5.3 with a sloppy stage 2 cam and pac 1218's stock otherwise in a 2000 silverado 1500.

    i bumped up my idle by 100 rpms and ran the russ k idle program once to rough in my RAF. (i know this should be done after VE table is set but doing this once before tuning my VE table made it a little easier to start and idle) then moved to STFT tuning. after a week of test drive cycles (scanning and tuning) my truck would idle and not stall. i still need to work on ltft but just adjusting the ve table with only STFT made the truck drivable again.

    ETA: i've heard the DBW engines are harder to tune? mine is DBC just thought i'd add that detail.
    Last edited by randybill; 10-03-2018 at 08:19 AM. Reason: more info

  8. #8
    Senior Tuner kingtal0n's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 85K5Jake View Post
    Forgot to mention I live at 7200 feet above see level the air is pretty thick up here that's probably the reason I run less air and more fuel. I dialed mine in with the RussK idle config also.
    thin. the air gets thin the higher you go. Pressure in KPA is 100KPA at sea level or 14.5psi at sea level. As you move up 'away' from Earth, the influence of gravity is weaker so the air molecules become less densely packed than they are near the ground. So at sea level we have 100KPA but on a mountain it will be LOWER, say 90 or 80 or 70KPA or something.
    Likewise if we could drive below sea level the pressure would go up even higher than 100KPA. IT would be like boost pressure except with no adiabatic losses.

    just fwiw to help you remember

  9. #9
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    did you find a base tune for this ? i really need help with a tune for a 5.3 with a sloppy stage 2 , long tubes and thats it...