HPT V3 scanner frustrations with LNF

[nordic705]

I am having issues with V3. My old config file did not import correctly. I've spent hours redoing everything. The one thing I cannot get working properly is BOOST. I have tried EVERY available sensor and configuration. Just can't get it to show data that makes sense! I have 3 different channels trying to capture valid data.

Right now I am using:

[50030.98]-[50032.98] as a calculation. At idle it is showing -8.3 (or so psi)

I am also trying channel "Boost Pressure" which is generic and also "Boost Low Res". The data I am receiving from these is weird. Not dropping below 14.8 psi - no idea why?

Any help or direction would be appreciated. I've attached several files below for review. Gotta love the knock retard eh!!!???

[cobaltssoverbooster]

just do "boost lo res" - 101 kpa. or "boost lo res" - 14.65 psi

it reads funky values for idle because the sensor doesnt see vacuum
im guessing you tried to subtract baro which is cool and all but the sensor needs an atm correction. therefore subtraction by fixed whole number. 1 atm =101 kpa =14.65 psi

[cobaltssoverbooster]

id like to further note that when i tested your file for "boost lo res" all by itself that it showed the proper 101 kpa value at idle. so subtracting 101 would net you the correct value at idle.
BLR.jpg

[nordic705]

Thanks OB. That did the trick.

Any thoughts on the KR that is showing. We are 99% sure it is false, but it is something that annoys the hell out of me. I am starting to wonder if I have a mechanical issue causing this condition. As soon as I come on boost, the KR shows. I can't tell you how many hours / days I've spent trying to eliminate this. Frustrating. I've watched your videos, and read all of John's posts regarding the sensors, but nothing really helps.

[cobaltssoverbooster]

if it changes intensisty or location on the graph from one log to another then i tend to ignore it as long as it remains below 3*

[codename Bil Doe]

https://forum.hptuners.com/showthrea...nd-explanation

Read my post on false KR. It's easy to track and easy to get rid of part throttle and wot.

#1 ALL tables have to be smooth. All cam tables same and smooth, all spark tables same and smooth, DAL smooth, OT and OS smooth, etc.

#2 false kr is a catch all for everything the ecu doesn't like. Easiest and most fun way to see this is on cold starts. Varies depending on year, but any pedal movement gives 3? of kr. The warmer the engine the shorter it holds. Around 191? (iirc) it magically disappears. 2009's are the most fun because kr mirrors pedal movement until the car is warm.

WHEN ENGINE IS WARM, log timing and watch for steady state part throttle and full throttle timing dips. Every dip in timing will have a corresponding false kr. Go to the load and rpm cell of that dip and RAISE timing a little. Log again. You want to RAISE timing a little at the dips. Hand smooth surrounding cells after every change. When timing dip goes so will false kr. There should be zero fluctuation in timing.