Originally Posted by
gmtech16450yz
Not a fan of what your tuner did to the knock sensor settings. Be safe and just put them back to stock for now.
Your airflow doesn't look that far off, it just looks like you need to get the fuel mixture and timing closer at idle and coastdown. Start with getting your idle timing tables the same as the main spark table, at least in the idle areas. Quick and dirty is basically copying your high octane table to your idle and coastdown tables. Your adaptive spark tables are actually more aggressive than the stock table I compared to.
IF ALL ELSE FAILS, PUT THE TABLES BACK TO STOCK.
Sorry to yell! This is important advice for a beginner though. Don't assume your tuner did the right things. If you don't have the original file for your car, download a STOCK tune file for a '14 Camaro with the same engine/trans as yours. Use the compare tool and like I said, if all else fails try the stock settings for any particular table first. You can always go back to what your tuner did if you need to. If going back to stock on a particular table made it better but went too far, compare to the tuners table values and multiply the difference by .5 or so. That will get you a happy medium between stock and what your tuner did. (If that's the right direction obviously.) If it made it better but not enough, multiply your change by 1.5 or 2 and see how that does.
Try Mowton's advice and shut off all adaptive spark. (He's a smart guy!) It is a VERY good way to see if your airflow is in the ballpark or not. Lots of people have problems with their idle dropping too far, then recovering too high when coming to a stop. Disabling all adaptive spark will often show you that it's the coastdown spark being too aggressive that causes that problem. Intuitively, most tuners would think adding airflow would help, but it actually makes it worse. Disabling adaptive spark and seeing your car coastdown at 1500rpm will easily show you that there's too much air on coastdown. Another way to get a better coastdown or clutch in stop is to taper your desired rpm by mph. For instance, if you want it to idle at 800rpm, set the idle speed min table to 800 at 0mph, 850 at 4.7mph, 900 at 9.3mph and maybe 950 or 1000 over the rest of the mph columns. That way the adaptive spark won't be pulling a bunch of ignition timing trying to get your idle speed down when you're coming to a stop.
Too much to swallow so fast? lol. Take your time, ask lots of questions and always keep backup tunes so you can revert back to a "known good" file if you screw something up. The compare tool is one of the most important and most used tools imo. (Sounds like you already have that handled by your stating that the knock sensor settings were doubled. They were.) The idle stuff is pretty safe, you can mess with most all of it without worrying about blowing up your car. I'd start with giving it more ignition timing, then work on your fuel mixtures. Again, quick and dirty is if your idle LTFT's are running at -10%, go to the corresponding cells in the MAF calibration "Airflow vs. Frequency" table and multiply those values by .9, which would lean mixtures at that airflow by 10%, which should bring your LTFT's back to 0. Or play it safe and only try to go half way at a time in your corrections by multiplying by .95 (5% less fuel.) Make sense?
edit...
Just wanted to add something that's important for EVERYONE to remember when idle tuning. Ignition timing is OUR friend. It's NOT the factory's or the EPA's friend. Increasing ignition timing (to a certain extent of course) makes your engine run smoother, cooler and more efficiently. The problem for the manufacturers is increased ignition timing causes increased HC's. So they try to retard ignition timing, especially on decel, and also try to keep the throttle plate open as far as possible to again reduce emissions. This is the opposite of what the engine runs best at. So keep that in mind. When all else fails, throw more timing at it! lol. Ok maybe not, but I'm a BIG fan of lots of ignition timing.
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