Rescale fuel injector flow rate vrs pressure delta table

[lt1z350]

Probably an easy question but on a 2007 tahoe my factory injector table is 36.4 from 18 psi to 58 psi and not graduated as say an 09 cts-v which is as low as 30.5 at 18 psi and high as 71 at 111 psi. So my question is does the ecm control the psi differently in each vehicle? My tahoe not regulate the psi from high to low and the lsa does? I have a lean tip in I have been chasing and now looking into things like this where maybe it's my fuel pressure settings should be more like the actual truck and not the lsa blown engine. I do run the stock lsa 52 lbs injectors with the blower on the 5.3. Just no matter how I dial in the transient tables or my ve I get a lean stumble so looking to this now as truck seems to hold 58 psi fuel pressure no matter where I am at in the throttle. It's also a factory flex fuel truck so had the better pump and larger injector stock if that matters in figuring this out.


Also should all the other tables match the lsa injector data or my trucks factory data like flow rate multi vrs iat???? I ask as the 2013 lsa zl1 is different from the 2009 lsa cts-v and of course my 2007 tahoe 5.3 flex fuel is different then both. Also short pulse adder min injection pulse injection timing things like that are they all for the injector or for the engine itself as per cubic inch and cam size so should leave that factory to match my engine? I have a feeling my lean tip in is in these settings and not my tune so much as I have tried redicilous measures to over richen it off idle and never gets better. It just make driveablity terrible and still has off throttle lean tip in issues.
Thanks

[GHuggins]

Multipliers - set to 1 until you find that they need tweaking / injector flow rate - flat line across the board like the truck was originally - flat line it to the 58psi cell / short pulse adders - use actual injectors installed / make sure your desoot mode is disabled too / retune if need be and go from there...

[lt1z350]

Thank you for info was going to go about down that road but nice to have verification on it. Can always count on your expertise as u have helped me a lot in the past on this setup. If wasn't for this tip in thing it would drive great well that and the terrible fuel mileage now even if I keep my foot out of it.

Common sense tells me if my wideband is staying around 14.7 -14.5 most of the time cruising at light throttle shouldn't that be as good as it gets for mileage? I would think since no cam no heads just added the blower if I am out of boost and driving normal that mileage should be decent or am I missing something here? Seems at lower rpm the factory mileage meter shows it pretty low but if get rpm up some just short of tipping into where it makes boost no matter what I get the best mpg. Like running 80 mph I can get avg 18-22 but at 65 drops to 13 -16. Kinda backwards from how it as stock. I made sure nothing weird like pe happing going on to drop economy. I just didn't think it would suffer so bad adding the lsa blower when driving easy with it and avg dropped from 16.5 city to 11 and that's just being easy on it. Run it aggressive and it's pitiful which is expected. Any ideas?

[07GTS]

u will find best economy at best torque/burn, what i do is use the instant fuel used on cruise down same stretch of road and make changes and see if that lowers or not, and its good because that takes into account everything like tps/fuel/ timing ect so if u go in the right direction u know, for example u could lean it out a little but that can loose torque so more tps is applied ect because u are in cruise control the car keep the speed correct so with better torque it takes less effort and it will show in the instant fuel, mine with 57 deg overlap cam and blower at hwy cruise at stoich using E15 i get the same if not a smidge better then i was with factory stock car on petrol, my main areas were EOIT, timing, also mine is manual and i found spark smoothing made the steady state spark all jumpy which actually keeps the driveline smooth but if its too jumpy (saw tooth sorta) it actually looses torque and once i stopped alot of that and spark stayed pretty much constant i gained better economy

[lt1z350]

So maybe a stupid question how do you lean out cruise exactly? If you set stoich leaner won't trims recorrect it back? So guess my question is how to lean out what the fuel trim is wanting to see as no matter what you set won't it eventually learn back to 14.7 or 14.10 as everything here I florida is now e10 anyway. Like as I sit here at lunch at idle it is bouncing around 14.3-14.7 so assuming my trims are trying to keep it set and maybe my ve is off a little still? I know I am missing some basic understanding of closed loop fueling as the o2 sensor is working and trims trying to old a certain afr. I see all the open loop fuel tables so can change that around but assume that is only start up and pe or open loop. But no specific tables for closed loop fueling just min and max voltage for the o2 or I am really not understanding something. Thanks for info as I got some books trying to learn more and pretty pissed it doesn't cover something so simple that should be covered in a basic tuning course I would think anyway.

[07GTS]

i wasnt meaning to lean it out i was just saying u can lean it out thinking it will save u fuel but sometimes it dosnt work that way, i got my figures at stoich, thats why i use the instant liters to see if any adjustments are working to save fuel, u can try spark in your cruise area increase it a little see what its like then maby decrease it and so forth see what it likes best, i ended up increasing mine until it stopped helping then left it as is and tried other areas