Attachment 68350
See what I mean if the sensor is at the filter end of this ot would take longer to respond than at the throttle body end?
Attachment 68350
See what I mean if the sensor is at the filter end of this ot would take longer to respond than at the throttle body end?
Why are you still trying and wasting my time?
Why are you spelling out "OTR" for me as if I don't know what it means? As I mentioned in post #14, I have/use one.. and I've had my IAT sensor mounted in my pipe next to my T/B + next to my OTR filter. Have you? And non-OTR intakes are more common than OTR intakes in Australia.
Why are you now telling me that an alloy intake will heatsoak more - as if that somehow proves any/your point and as if that gives your argument the advantage? My IAT sensor isn't mounted in/on the pipe. My intake is made from plastic. My stock LS1 IAT sensor is also made from plastic.
Why are you acting like the amount of air matters, and not the actual temp of the air?
Why are you acting like the more air that passes over the sensor, the faster the sensor will read?
....
Are you for real? Are you trolling?
Alright man. You obviously are the one who knows it all.
If you just want to be all defensive and not take someone else's opinion or advice, that's your choice.
I explained otr to you because you explained iat to me....
By the way, as you said the I stands for intake, not ambient
Agree to disagree.
Relax. Take a breath. Not everyone has to agree with you, or understand me for that matter.
2016 Silverado CCSB 5.3/6L80e, not as slow but still heavy.
If you don't post your tune and logs when you have questions you aren't helping yourself.
Ben C, at risk of causing Mr. Smiths head to explode, you are right, these sensors take maybe 5s to respond, a 'fast' one 2s... I would love to know how much air heats "typically" during transit, but you won't find that too easily with google, lol.
99 TA, Texas Speed LS376, PRC heads, 233/239 cam, Fast 92mm, 95mm TB, card style MAF, Tick TR6060, Strange 4.11 12 bolt axle & clutchpack diff, Strano springs/dampers, Vette 18" wheels, Vette disks, CTS-V calipers, 16lb flywheel, long tube headers, no cats.
Calm down. Don't get mad that I proved you wrong about.. everything.
Your opinion and advice on this is 100% wrong so please stop spreading your false IAT sensor info around.
I don't know it all.. but I am clearly correct about this subject and you are sooooo so wrong. You are so wrong that I can't even tell if you're serious or not.
I have first hand experience with this and you don't (I asked you if you mounted your IAT sensor in both spots like I have and you ignored my qn).
I live in Australia too, so don't act like my situation is different or that I don't know something you do (regarding Aus) or that I should shut up because I don't live in Aus.
I explained IAT to you because you clearly didn't know what the "T" stood for (as you go on and on about the IAT getting "more / a lot of airflow", instead of "the right temperature") and I had to spell it out for you. No need for you to "try and get even" with me, like a smartass.
Btw, ambient or not.. the engine sucks in air from the air filter area.. and that's where my IAT sensor is mounted and where I recommend as it's clearly a faaaaaar better place for the IAT sensor to be at than a few inches from the throttle body. It doesn't matter if the air is moving at 800mph or just hovering around the engine bay.. what matters is the temperature of the air the engine / intake is sucking in.
I really can't understand how you think you are correct and I'm wrong.
Your argument/points =
- An IAT sensor not mounted on a hot intake pipe will get heatsoaked more
- An IAT sensor mounted closer to a lot of heat will absorb less heat
- An IAT sensor will be less accurate reading the air the engine breathes in
- A faster acting IAT sensor will get rid of heatsoak faster than a slower sensor
- The main problem is the speed of the IAT sensor, not location
- An IAT sensor reading the temp every 200ms isn't fast enough and that he/we should buy a faster one
- IAT sensors measure airflow speed
- The more air that passes over an IAT sensor, the faster it reads
...
Like, you can't be serious.
5 seconds to respondOriginally Posted by dermotw
LOL
Now I've heard it all.
Mate, you are cooked.
I forgot it was you who had those rants about VE tuning.
I also chuckled pretty hard at the stuff you posted regarding Bluetooth causing DNA changes.
You have not comprehended what I wrote, that's fine. You have other things to worry about.
Okay, troll.Mate, you are cooked.
I forgot it was you who had those rants about VE tuning.
I also chuckled pretty hard at the stuff you posted regarding Bluetooth causing DNA changes.
You have not comprehended what I wrote, that's fine. You have other things to worry about.
Ben C's argument/points =
- An IAT sensor not mounted on a hot intake pipe will get heatsoaked more
- An IAT sensor mounted closer to a lot of heat will absorb less heat
- An IAT sensor will be less accurate reading the air the engine breathes in
- A faster acting IAT sensor will get rid of heatsoak faster than a slower sensor
- The main problem is the speed of the IAT sensor, not location
- An IAT sensor reading the temp every 200ms isn't fast enough and that he/we should buy a faster one
- IAT sensors measure airflow speed
- The more air that passes over an IAT sensor, the faster it reads
...
says I'm cooked. Right.
IAT inside OTR.pdf
For those interested see attached -- indicative of where the sensor is fitted inside the OTR
I will compare the 2 positions,, original and extended over the next couple of weeks. hope we get some warmer days it is autumn here not real warm.
i know I should shut up but...
Heres a typical type of motorsport IAT sensor. 10s response time. 5s is good...
http://www.bosch-motorsport.com/medi...2650379pdf.pdf
99 TA, Texas Speed LS376, PRC heads, 233/239 cam, Fast 92mm, 95mm TB, card style MAF, Tick TR6060, Strange 4.11 12 bolt axle & clutchpack diff, Strano springs/dampers, Vette 18" wheels, Vette disks, CTS-V calipers, 16lb flywheel, long tube headers, no cats.
Dragon: is there more ducting than that? i.e. does the bonnet when shut seal some of it off? I'm just interested, the air path in those is also very short, like my firebird, its very similar (unsurprisingly, I suppose...).
99 TA, Texas Speed LS376, PRC heads, 233/239 cam, Fast 92mm, 95mm TB, card style MAF, Tick TR6060, Strange 4.11 12 bolt axle & clutchpack diff, Strano springs/dampers, Vette 18" wheels, Vette disks, CTS-V calipers, 16lb flywheel, long tube headers, no cats.
dermotw: I think I agree the moulded part of the bonnet supporting the sprung loaded latch does tend to shut off a small percentage but overall it seems to get a reasonable amount through the grill -- what I am noticing with the couple of cruises I have done (20 deg ambient) the ext IAT has a stationery temp to 10 - 15 degs higher than ambient as opposed to at the MAF being 20 - 30 degs higher -- both cool down reasonable quickly at a cruise speed with the ext IAT ending up closer to ambient but I am trying to get a correct reading much quicker, as the hillclimb is idle for up to 10 mins and the actual hillclimb is 37 secs.
previously on 38 deg day I have had the log on the hillclimb record 65 degs and I am sure that is incorrect, and caused I believe by the long idle period and heat build up in the engine compartment just before the run.
My belief is with the sensor further forward in the OTR I will be starting from a lower point at the beginning of the run. well thats the logic anyway.
Waiting on Ben C to tell you to mount your IAT sensor next to your exhaust headers to lessen heatsoak..
Your IAT sensor recording 65 degrees on a very hot day after/during a long idle sounds correct/accurate to me.
38 degree aka very hot day + trapped engine heat + IAT sensor mounted near the hot engine on a hot intake pipe + fan blowing hot air on it + sun frying bonnet... = 65 degrees.
Would probably have recorded 50-55 degrees if the sensor was up front.. whatever the temp of the air your engine was sucking in.
Why don't you leave your bonnet fully open before the race?
@Dermo: I repeat; my stock 15yo LS1 IAT sensor reads multiple times a second.
Not just polls.. but READS/MEASURES the actual IAT.
Look at your logs at WOT after a long idle
and make sure your IAT sensor polling interval setting isn't set at 5-10 seconds.
Last edited by Mr. Smith; 04-18-2017 at 02:49 AM. Reason: Clarifying..
Waiting on Ben C to tell you to mount your IAT sensor next to your exhaust headers to lessen heatsoak..
Your IAT sensor recording 65 degrees on a very hot day after/during a long idle sounds correct/accurate to me.
38 degree aka very hot day + trapped engine heat + IAT sensor mounted near the hot engine on a hot intake pipe + fan blowing hot air on it + sun frying bonnet... = 65 degrees.
Would probably have recorded 50-55 degrees if the sensor was up front.. whatever the temp of the air your engine was sucking in.
Why don't you leave your bonnet fully open before the race?
@Dermo: I repeat; my stock 15yo LS1 IAT sensor reads multiple times a second.
You are really confused by the speed we are refering to here aren't you?
Not the speed the ecu can poll the sensor, the speed at which the sensor actually reacts is the important part. (unplug your IAT sensor and log it, you will get data multiple times a second, which isnt helpful is it?
With more air passing over something, the heat / or cool transfers quicker to another object in its path. You surely would agree with that wouldnt you?
Mr smith, did you read Dermotw's pdf? see how slow the sensor responds? It would still happily let the PCM read it as many times per second as it wants to , it's just the reading will be wrong.
Hill climb and drag racing you want to get the sensor reading the actual intake temp of the air that is actually going into the engine asap.
Hey Dragon, we are both in SA.
You running the car at Collingwood? I will have to get back out there soon for a look.
Jesus.
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